Fjr stuck brakes

[06fjrrider]

I have looked through the post and couldn't find anything on the issue i have an 06 fjr 1300a last week i put brand new tires on and realised the front pads were wore i ordered them rode for a week with no issues then i installed all new pads ever since my front brakes have been hanging real bad and the rear pedal is spongy i have bleed three times and have had no luck getting them to free up question is where should i start trying to fix this issue?

 

[phroenips]

At the risk of sounding like an asshole, the lack of punctuation makes it extremely difficult to read, and frankly, not worth my effort.

Just for generic brake stuff though, remember that the FJR has linked brakes, and also some people (myself included) have had the rear brake pedal stick, which needs to be removed and re-lubed. Hope that helps.

 

[BkerChuck]

When you installed the new pads, obviously you had to push the pistons back into the calipers to get the new pads in. When you did this, did you clean the pistons off thoroughly first? Have you ever lubed the rear brake pivot as mentioned above? Did you bleed them in the correct fashion as mentioned?

It sounds as though your caliper pistons may be sticking. First thing I'd do is pull the calipers back off and clean them.

 

[06fjrrider]

Ok ill make it easy for you. I installed all new brake pads. Since the install my front callipers are staying engaged. The rear brake pedal became spongy so i bleed both front and rear brakes. I checked the rear brake pedal and it's operation is smooth. Sorry If this reply is still not up to your standards.

 

[06fjrrider]

Thank you BkerChuck i did a light cleaning of the caliper. I will remove them and do a deeper clean to see of that helps.

 

[MrZappo]

Are you bleeding them in the proper order as detailed in the manual ? Linked brakes have a specific procedure ....

 

[HotRodZilla]

HOW did you bleed the front and rear brakes? It has been done incorrectly many times before, that's why we ask...and punctuation does make things easier.

First: Bleed front left, then front TOP right.

Second: Find your rear reservoir under the right silver panel and bleed the front BOTTOM right. Then bleed the rear.

Again, many people have missed the rear portion because they either didn't find the hidden rear reservoir or didn't know how the brakes were linked. Sorry if you have already done it correctly.

The cleaning is still a good idea.

 

[06fjrrider]

I bleed them in this fashion.

(Sitting on bike)

Left front

Right front (top bleeder valve)

Rear front (bottom bleeder valve)

Then rear

 

[rushes]

If the fluid looked pretty nasty when you first bled them, I'd pull the calipers apart and give them a good cleaning.

 

[mcatrophy]

Since this started after you changed your pads, it's most probable that it was something you did. Not saying you did anything wrong, just that it's too much of a coincidence.

I suggest using a flat-bladed screwdriver, move one of the pads away from the disc by a small anount (half a millimeter or so). Squeeze the brake lever, make sure it moves in correctly.

Repeat for each of the pads (using the rear brake lever as appropriate).

Do they all move as expected?

This should narrow the problem down.

Whatever, don't ride aound with binding brakes. The consequences can be severe.

(Click on image for larger view)



Story here.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If their the original brake seals and dust seals there's a good possiblility their due for replacement.

I've had serious binding on my 04 (non-linked, non ABS) where the pistons simply did not retract.

New seals installed, from 1/3 (free spin-by hand), to over 3 full rotations.

For my FZ6, same calibger as the Gen I FJR (4 pistons per pot), Yamaha recommends seal replacement EVERY TWO
YEARS. Yours if original, are 9 years old.

My 04 FJR needed seal replacement in 2008, (no leaks/seepage).

I don't have my FJR shop manual anymore but would suspect its close to the same. If someone could post from the manual, what Yamaha suggests would be appreciated.

I had to rebuild the fronts on my current FZ600, (same issue). "free spin" went from 3/4 turn to 4 full rotations now (approx 2 years later).

In real life, I've found 4-6 years max before the seals harden up and don't flex. The "no flexing"/hardened up seals causes the pistons to stick and thus the pads NOT to retract.

 

[Harald]

I bleed them in this fashion.(Sitting on bike)

Left front

Right front (top bleeder valve)

Rear front (bottom bleeder valve)

Then rear

I suspect you pushed crud back into the o-ring sealed bores when you pushed the pistons back.

I always recommend extending the pistons out further than they were with old pads installed so that you can clean the pistons before pushing them back. The easy way to do this is to stick a piece of material (that's about the thickness of 2 pad backing plates and the rotor) in between the pistons and apply the brakes. I have a "calibrated"

piece of wood for this purpose.

In your case, you've got nothing to lose by trying this cleaning method because it may very well push the crud off the O-rings and free up your pistons. If it doesn't work, it didn't cost you anything other than a little time and you can proceed to rebuilding your calipers.

 

[John d]

I would also check to see if the pins that hold the pads in place are in good shape, that is clean, round, with no wear ridges that can prevent the pads from sliding on them. The pins should also be lubed with brake grease.

 

[wfooshee]

+1 agreement on the condition of the seals. It's a bit of a job to change them, and you have to spend some money to get enough of them for the job, but a bike that age is probably due for new caliper seals.

I had the same story a few years ago, with the front dragging. Put the bike on the centerstand, have someone push the rear down so the front is in the air, and give the wheel a good spin. It should NOT immediately stop! if it does, new seals in the caliper are your only option.

There are two different seal kits in the parts list, because there are two different piston sizes. Each kit does one piston, so you need two of each kit, four kits altogether.

And the bleeding process on the rear is IMPORTANT. The front brake lever works both left pistons and the top right piston. Bleed those three from the front reservoir. The lower right on the front works from the rear pedal, so bleed it from the rear reservoir, THEN bleed the rear caliper.

 

[Intech]

I would suggest installing speed bleeders, also. As long as you don't run the reservoir dry there is little chance of introducing air into the hydraulic system.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would suggest installing speed bleeders, also. As long as you don't run the reservoir dry there is little chance of introducing air into the hydraulic system.

I read elsewhere (don't know if its true), that if you tie(bungee, etc) the ft brake lever to the bar, the MC will NOT drain out while the calipers are off. Should you try this lever "trick", please post if it works... I'm good for new seals for at least 3 more years..

An air compressor (even a small one), is a BIG help should you have to remove the pistons. A small piece of rubber on the tip of the "blower", shoved in the fluid transfer orifice makes piston removal MUCH easier. Put a rag on the other side of it or you likely will pinch a finger... The zseals come from Yamaha with small pink grease packets. I would install the seals strictly with brake fluid (the grease tends to attract dirt). Use the grease on the sliding pin's.

 

[Intech]

I would suggest installing speed bleeders, also. As long as you don't run the reservoir dry there is little chance of introducing air into the hydraulic system.

I read elsewhere (don't know if its true), that if you tie(bungee, etc) the ft brake lever to the bar, the MC will NOT drain out while the calipers are off. Should you try this lever "trick", please post if it works... I'm good for new seals for at least 3 more years..

An air compressor (even a small one), is a BIG help should you have to remove the pistons. A small piece of rubber on the tip of the "blower", shoved in the fluid transfer orifice makes piston removal MUCH easier. Put a rag on the other side of it or you likely will pinch a finger... The zseals come from Yamaha with small pink grease packets. I would install the seals strictly with brake fluid (the grease tends to attract dirt). Use the grease on the sliding pin's.

I would be interested to know if the lever "trick" works. There has to be something more to the procedure, though. If you are going to remove the calipers do you take the saddle bolt off and then tie the lever to the handle? I have not had to replace seals, but probably will get some to have on hand.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would be interested to know if the lever "trick" works. There has to be something more to the procedure, though. If you are going to remove the calipers do you take the saddle bolt off and then tie the lever to the handle? I have not had to replace seals, but probably will get some to have on hand.

The lever tied back to the bar is simply that, it stays bolted on, just keep the MC full. I think it may prevent the MC from simply emptying out.
I've changed the seals on my 04 FJR and FZ6 (same caliper (but NOT linked and no ABS). As noted, I didn't try that method (possible shortcut) however, it took me longer to bleed the DRY system than to re-place the seals. (Maybe 45 minutes each side, R&R,clean, plus bleeding)

 

[Intech]

I would be interested to know if the lever "trick" works. There has to be something more to the procedure, though. If you are going to remove the calipers do you take the saddle bolt off and then tie the lever to the handle? I have not had to replace seals, but probably will get some to have on hand.

We are having a communication breakdown here. I am talking about the saddle bolt that connects the hydraulic line to the caliper. If you are going to take that off you don't want the lever tied back to the handlebar. That would put pressure on the line. I guess I am just confused...