Describe the noise that you are hearing.
If there is no oil in the exhaust header then you do not have "a ticker".
If there is no oil in the exhaust header then you do not have "a ticker".
FJRF001: New Ticking Sound files
- Thread starter slapnpop
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
I know of one forum member with over 100,000 miles on his ticker. Mine was repaired at the 40K mark. Wasn't losing any oil, just more of annoyance than anything else. I lucked out and had Yammie Canada pony up for parts and machine work because I had it noted on a service invoice while still under warranty. I lucked out, but then, I think so did Yammie because I'd definitely buy another.
I'll do my best to get an audio clip of what I'm hearing. It sounds like a tick, though, and is audible most through around 3k rpm. I can hear it most on the left side of the bike. I have no exhaust burning that I can tell, and the tips of the bike don't look black.
What I need is another FJR rider somewhere near me to compare to. I'm going to see if there might be one at a meet-up this coming weekend. If so, I'll go for sure just to compare.
What I need is another FJR rider somewhere near me to compare to. I'm going to see if there might be one at a meet-up this coming weekend. If so, I'll go for sure just to compare.
I don't know how up to date it is, but the FJR Forum member map may be of use finding someone nearby to compare sounds with.
You can even zero in on just 1st gen owners.
(link in the menu at the top of the page)
You can even zero in on just 1st gen owners.
(link in the menu at the top of the page)
mxboy96
Active member
Well you got a strange gift from god then! If you can't hear it and it runs fine, more power too you
You don't have to worry about the noise,lol.
JackW123
Member
Just from what I've read on old road tests of 2003-2004 fjr's, the whine is kinda normal. I'm not an engineer or mechanic like some folks on this forum so this may sound a bit stupid...but: If the ticking is there, doesn't replacing the cct take care of it? I remember having a similar "ticking" sound on an old Blackbird I had (although I think the tick was much louder than the sound bytes here) and I replaced the cct. It was a very simple job. I don't have an FJR (yet) so I'm not sure how simple a job it is to do this on the Yamaha, but I wouldn't think it's much different. Anyway, replacing the cct took care of the noise on that bike. Another bike famous for cct problems is the 1000cc Concours...another Jap inline 4. Mine was just starting to make the noise when I sold it...many years ago
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It's a different sound. The CCT sound is from the right side of the engine and is a hollow metallic sound (marbles in a can). The ticker sound is (usually) from cylinder #1 on the left side of the engine and is a higher pitched metallic rattle like dinnerware being shaken in a bag.Just from what I've read on old road tests of 2003-2004 fjr's, the whine is kinda normal. I'm not an engineer or mechanic like some folks on this forum so this may sound a bit stupid...but: If the ticking is there, doesn't replacing the cct take care of it? I remember having a similar "ticking" sound on an old Blackbird I had (although I think the tick was much louder than the sound bytes here) and I replaced the cct. It was a very simple job. I don't have an FJR (yet) so I'm not sure how simple a job it is to do this on the Yamaha, but I wouldn't think it's much different. Anyway, replacing the cct took care of the noise on that bike. Another bike famous for cct problems is the 1000cc Concours...another Jap inline 4. Mine was just starting to make the noise when I sold it...many years ago.
We do get both sounds on these bikes occasionally. Less of the tickers these days as they've been weeded out for the most part.
bob431389
Active member
I have a 06 with 75k on it. Last week after sitting in the garage for about 2 weeks started it and there was a noticeable tick. I guess in the valve train. After it warms up it goes away. Bike has never had any valve service, runs good and oil... synthetic... changed every 5k. Any comments? How do you know that valve service is required? Since the ticking goes away after warm up is it an issue I should be concerned about ??
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
If the noise is coming from the right side of the engine then it is possibly the cam chain tensioner rather than 'the tick'.
Donal
Well-known member
How do you know that valve service is required? - Look at the service schedule. I do mine very 24,000 miles, your is overdue.............
ionbeam
2 FUN
Engines with a cam follower and screw with lock nut adjusters will tick as they wear and get louder as they need adjustment. With the screw and lock nut adjuster the valve actuation gets smaller and top end performance falls off without harm to the engine.
With a shim/bucket adjustment system like the FJR has the valves will make no noise as the shims wear and valve actuation gets greater until the exhaust valves will no longer fully seat when they should be closed and the subsequent exhaust leak will start to burn the valves and the valve seats. You don't want this to happen.
You know that service is needed every 27k miles because that is what Yamaha specifies in their service requirements. As Bobxxxxxx says, he guesses at the noise. It could be that he is hearing the coils fire, the fuel injectors firing, the cam chain or an exhaust leak starting. Or Bobxxxxxx is a troll
At least he researched the problem before posting as evidenced by his finding this 9 year old thread. That is indeed a good job of searching!
With a shim/bucket adjustment system like the FJR has the valves will make no noise as the shims wear and valve actuation gets greater until the exhaust valves will no longer fully seat when they should be closed and the subsequent exhaust leak will start to burn the valves and the valve seats. You don't want this to happen.
You know that service is needed every 27k miles because that is what Yamaha specifies in their service requirements. As Bobxxxxxx says, he guesses at the noise. It could be that he is hearing the coils fire, the fuel injectors firing, the cam chain or an exhaust leak starting. Or Bobxxxxxx is a troll
At least he researched the problem before posting as evidenced by his finding this 9 year old thread. That is indeed a good job of searching!
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Ironic line in the post:
"Bike has never had any valve service, runs good and oil... synthetic... changed every 5k"
Poster thinks enough of his bike to change the oil with $ynthetic every 5k miles, but doesn't care enough to check the valve clearances for 75k miles.
"Bike has never had any valve service, runs good and oil... synthetic... changed every 5k"
Poster thinks enough of his bike to change the oil with $ynthetic every 5k miles, but doesn't care enough to check the valve clearances for 75k miles.
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bob431389
Active member
Ionbeam.......thanks for your helpful comments.. I know that the service is due every 27K. Also know of plenty of riders in this area that have skipped that service or greatly extended it. this does not negate the fact that it should be done as the manual says... Local dealer charges $$$ to do it so guess I have pushed it as far as I can. Don't want burned valves. As for Fred W did not need your snarky comments. Just trying to get some helpful advice. By the way NOT a troll...
ionbeam
2 FUN
As confirmed by your last post
Fred comes with a snark streak, I suspect that the cranky Yankee would succumb if the snark was removed
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No, I wasn't being "snarky" at all. I really do fail to see why you (or anyone else) would have risked riding your prized bike for 75k miles without doing the (arguably most) important maintenance, specified at 26k mile intervals, of checking valve clearances. You obviously think more of the bike's engine than that since you use expensive synthetic oil on a regular basis, ostensibly to try and prolong it's life, which could all be wasted money if you lunch the valves due to inattention. (do you see the irony now?)
Sure, plenty of owners are negligent with all sort of things. Check out the valve adjustment poll (that I started) if you want to know exactly how lucky those negligent guys have been, (including you). Yeah, the majority of engines don't need "adjustment" in those first or second checks. But some do.
Call me "snarky" if it makes you feel better about yourself, but check those damn valves. An engine replacement isn't cheap. A valve check is a pittance in comparison.
Sure, plenty of owners are negligent with all sort of things. Check out the valve adjustment poll (that I started) if you want to know exactly how lucky those negligent guys have been, (including you). Yeah, the majority of engines don't need "adjustment" in those first or second checks. But some do.
Call me "snarky" if it makes you feel better about yourself, but check those damn valves. An engine replacement isn't cheap. A valve check is a pittance in comparison.
bob431389
Active member
Got it Frank. Appreciate the advice and cannot argue with sticking to the suggested interval for the valves. Did do some checking with the local dealer. Wants about $600.00 all in to do the job. I'm sure that assumes no additional things show up with the tear down. How does that square with your area? Just curious
I''ll be Frank with you, but my name is Fred.
$600 is about right if they find something that is out of spec and need to make an adjustment. If it's just a check, it should be closer to half of that, or ~ $300. Doesn't take all that long, and isn't that difficult to do a check if that is all it needs. Not many parts are needed either. Last couple checks I have done were about 3-4 hours of labor and a few o-rings, and I am not a pro.
If you get a manual, and search and read up on the procedure, anyone that is fairly handy can do the valve checks, and there is no real risk of causing major engine damage or screwing things up too badly. Then the price of accomplishment is only what you value your time at. In many folk's cases, it is a positive experience where they become more intimate with their machine.
IF there are any valves that you determine do need adjustment, you have some choices:
You can button it back up and bring it to the mechanic (already knowing it needs adjustment and planning for that expense).
Or, you can solicit the help of someone experienced with these things that you trust to help you get it right.
Or if you are feeling like you understand the situation well, and are good with mechanical things, you can just do it yourself since it is almost already ready to have the cams taken out, and git 'er dun... and also know in the end that you gave it the full attention that the job deserves.
I don't want to scare you. It is not that hard to do an adjustment correctly. But if you are hesitant, which is fully understandable considering how invasive the adjustment procedure is and the possibility of causing harm, getting some help the first time you tackle it is a pretty smart way to go.
One f the coolest things about a community like this is that there are usually people in your own area that are willing to give you a hand with stuff like this, just for the camaraderie (and maybe a few beers)
Good luck, and let's hope that you find that you're still "In-Spec"
$600 is about right if they find something that is out of spec and need to make an adjustment. If it's just a check, it should be closer to half of that, or ~ $300. Doesn't take all that long, and isn't that difficult to do a check if that is all it needs. Not many parts are needed either. Last couple checks I have done were about 3-4 hours of labor and a few o-rings, and I am not a pro.
If you get a manual, and search and read up on the procedure, anyone that is fairly handy can do the valve checks, and there is no real risk of causing major engine damage or screwing things up too badly. Then the price of accomplishment is only what you value your time at. In many folk's cases, it is a positive experience where they become more intimate with their machine.
IF there are any valves that you determine do need adjustment, you have some choices:
You can button it back up and bring it to the mechanic (already knowing it needs adjustment and planning for that expense).
Or, you can solicit the help of someone experienced with these things that you trust to help you get it right.
Or if you are feeling like you understand the situation well, and are good with mechanical things, you can just do it yourself since it is almost already ready to have the cams taken out, and git 'er dun... and also know in the end that you gave it the full attention that the job deserves.
I don't want to scare you. It is not that hard to do an adjustment correctly. But if you are hesitant, which is fully understandable considering how invasive the adjustment procedure is and the possibility of causing harm, getting some help the first time you tackle it is a pretty smart way to go.
One f the coolest things about a community like this is that there are usually people in your own area that are willing to give you a hand with stuff like this, just for the camaraderie (and maybe a few beers)
Good luck, and let's hope that you find that you're still "In-Spec"
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bob431389
Active member
Thanks Fred.. Sorry for the screw up. appreciated your detailed response. that is the kind of help I was looking for. I do have a guy that might be able to help me to do it. Do have the shop manual. What do you know about the cam chain tension adjustment?
The Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) is an automatically adjusting device (supposedly), but there has been a good deal of controversy about the early ones, with a few owners being bitten, where that spring slackened too much and caused valve damage. Most of the time it was after someone played around with it, but not always.
Best bet is to just buy a new one and replace it (if it hasn't been done already) as the newer ones have better and more reliable tension on the chain. New ones will have a green dot of paint on them and come with a different updater part number. There is a wealth of first hand info on these on the forum if you search for it. I'm passing along 2nd hand info as I have not been bitten by a slack chain (yet) knock on wood.
Best bet is to just buy a new one and replace it (if it hasn't been done already) as the newer ones have better and more reliable tension on the chain. New ones will have a green dot of paint on them and come with a different updater part number. There is a wealth of first hand info on these on the forum if you search for it. I'm passing along 2nd hand info as I have not been bitten by a slack chain (yet) knock on wood.
El Toro
Innocent Bystander
We have a new ticking sound at my house. The Hermle 32 01A movement in our wall clock needed to be rebushed again. Since it is 41 years old, I just replaced the movement with a Urgos 32319. Now it's ticking again, but ticking is a good thing when it comes to clocks.
