Silly Question...
Is a 1L bottle of this stuff enough for both forks, or will I need two bottles?
Thanks for humoring me.
R/
Is a 1L bottle of this stuff enough for both forks, or will I need two bottles?
Thanks for humoring me.
R/
Fork Oil
- Thread starter SPORT
- Start date
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HaulinAshe
Well-known member
It depends on if you are using the stock/OEM fork springs, if you are emptying the cartridges completely or just doing a basic flush/fill, what oil level you intend to run (stock 90mm or lower), and if you prefer to do a second flush with clean fluid after cleansing.
IMO, No, one bottle is not enough. Buy two!
IMO, No, one bottle is not enough. Buy two!
exskibum
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No, one liter is not enough. For info about how much it takes to fill both forks and how much you'll use to flush them, read on.
I use Honda's Suspension Fluid -- I mix their clear SS-7 (5W) in equal proportions with their red SS-8 (10W) to get a pink 7.5W as they measure oil weights (as has been extensively detailed in these pages, one manufacturer's 5W does not necessarily equal another manufacturer's 5W). I am mentioning this detail because Honda Suspension Fluid comes in 16 fl.oz. bottles and I'll leave you to do the metric conversion.
On my garage white board, I have noted in the margin that I require 3 bottles (48 fl.oz.) to fill the forks to the height required from fully drained to full per following the documented procedure on my '05 FJR forks (OEM valving, Wilbers springs). Those are rough bulk quantities to begin the job, not necessarily how much it will take to fill to exact level. I also have a note on that board that I use roughly 1.5 bottles (24 fl.oz.) to complete the flushing process I do before the final complete drain and refill.
So, that's how much of my 7.5W Honda SS mixed stuff (72 fl.oz.) I have on hand before I start the job. It's not hygroscopic like brake fluid can be, so what's left over from the last job (mixed pink in containers I mark as 7.5W) is a part of my analysis of how much more I need to buy before I begin the job.
BTW, if you don't already have it, this is your friend for this job. I don't know that I'd bother doing this job myself for all the cursing this perfectionist would have to do without it.
I use Honda's Suspension Fluid -- I mix their clear SS-7 (5W) in equal proportions with their red SS-8 (10W) to get a pink 7.5W as they measure oil weights (as has been extensively detailed in these pages, one manufacturer's 5W does not necessarily equal another manufacturer's 5W). I am mentioning this detail because Honda Suspension Fluid comes in 16 fl.oz. bottles and I'll leave you to do the metric conversion.
On my garage white board, I have noted in the margin that I require 3 bottles (48 fl.oz.) to fill the forks to the height required from fully drained to full per following the documented procedure on my '05 FJR forks (OEM valving, Wilbers springs). Those are rough bulk quantities to begin the job, not necessarily how much it will take to fill to exact level. I also have a note on that board that I use roughly 1.5 bottles (24 fl.oz.) to complete the flushing process I do before the final complete drain and refill.
So, that's how much of my 7.5W Honda SS mixed stuff (72 fl.oz.) I have on hand before I start the job. It's not hygroscopic like brake fluid can be, so what's left over from the last job (mixed pink in containers I mark as 7.5W) is a part of my analysis of how much more I need to buy before I begin the job.
BTW, if you don't already have it, this is your friend for this job. I don't know that I'd bother doing this job myself for all the cursing this perfectionist would have to do without it.
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Thanks for the detailed response.
I'm installing GPSuspension springs, but keeping everything else OEM. I only want to flush the old fluid out and refill with new. As such, I still didn't think 1 bottle would be enough.
R/
Peter Murray
Well-known member
I flushed , changed my fork oil and installed Ohlins 1.0 springs this past weekend. I set the oil level at 110 mm this required about 22.5 oz of oil per leg. The shop manual said 23.5 oz should give you a oil level of 92mm.
exskibum
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Reminder to those viewing thread this to keep in mind that Gen.I and Gen.II FJRs have different forks, and MAY require different amounts of fluid to get to their (possibly different) specified levels of fill. Mine and Sport's are Gen.I, Peter Murray's is a Gen.II.
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GreyGoose
Well-known member
dont want to get off topic , but i cant find anything in the manual concerning how often to change the fork oil. i only see inspect and check for leaks. How often should this fluid be swapped?
thanx
Greygoose
exskibum
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I don't think there is a recommendation in the service manual, but maybe a search of posts from those who ride a lot of miles and do a lot of maintenance would turn up a more reliable recommendation than I can give.
I figure around 10K miles is about right, but am not too anal about it. The oil will be a bit dirty with particulates showing at 5K and dirty enough for me to want to change by 10K. BUT . . . we know someone here in norCal (whose name will not be mentioned) who had 55K on his '05 before a fork seal began to leak, which caused him to get a lot of maintenance done just before he rode to CFR and then to Prudhoe Bay and back. That was his first fork oil change. Mine tends to get done roughly once a year -- usually shortly before a week or two long trip when I'm getting everything in top shape for the ride. This year, right after WFO, I'm doing a ride-in at GP Suspension, so it'll be done by them as a part of my upgraded front suspension work.
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Panman
Well-known member
dont want to get off topic , but i cant find anything in the manual concerning how often to change the fork oil. i only see inspect and check for leaks. How often should this fluid be swapped?
thanx
Greygoose
I like the 10,000 mile idea, I'm going to go with the idea that everytime I change the tires I'm going to change the fork fluid. It's not that hard and only adds a couple of hours to the job.
thanx
Greygoose
I like the 10,000 mile idea, I'm going to go with the idea that everytime I change the tires I'm going to change the fork fluid. It's not that hard and only adds a couple of hours to the job.
HaulinAshe
Well-known member
There is no recommended service intervals for the forks, and that's a MAJOR screw-up by Yamaha.
IMO, 10,000 miles is not a good mark for those who ride a lot of miles. Old fork oil is a bit like brake fluid because of the contaminants it collects.
I've constantly recommended once per year or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
I'm just starting the 25,000km maintenance schedule on my '07. I wasn't even thinking about changing the fork oil until I read this thread but now I think I'll do it.
Does anyone know what the OEM fork oil weight is and since I weigh about 240 lbs in ATGATT, would it make sense to change to a heavier weight oil?
Does anyone know what the OEM fork oil weight is and since I weigh about 240 lbs in ATGATT, would it make sense to change to a heavier weight oil?
gainsi
Well-known member
IMHO, around the 20-25,000km mark is what I did & should be OK. The oil will be dirty, so I would flush the fork & components with a cheaper oil before draining that completely before refilling with a better quality oil (I used Belray & would use it again).
Before forks had adjustable preload, rebound & compression damping adjustments, mixing different weights of fork oil was the only way to provide any adjustment. With modern forks, you would be advised to stay with the recommendation. Note your existing settings so that you can reset them after the service. If you think that you have too much fork dive, or the suspension seems hard, try more preload & then tweak the C & R adjusters, adding no more than 2 clicks at a time. Ride the same section of road - is it better ? If yes, keep going in that direction. Small adjustments only, but make sure that your front & rear preload are correct before doing this. Do a search for setting 'static sag'. HTH.
Before forks had adjustable preload, rebound & compression damping adjustments, mixing different weights of fork oil was the only way to provide any adjustment. With modern forks, you would be advised to stay with the recommendation. Note your existing settings so that you can reset them after the service. If you think that you have too much fork dive, or the suspension seems hard, try more preload & then tweak the C & R adjusters, adding no more than 2 clicks at a time. Ride the same section of road - is it better ? If yes, keep going in that direction. Small adjustments only, but make sure that your front & rear preload are correct before doing this. Do a search for setting 'static sag'. HTH.
RossKean
Well-known member
Is the article on fork oil change on the FJR Tech site applicable to the Gen II bikes or are there major differences? (I noted that it was written for a Gen I model.)
https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=47
I will probably want to do this sometime this year.
Ross
https://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=47
I will probably want to do this sometime this year.
Ross
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Other than the obvious clamping differences at the axle end of the forks, the only major difference that concerns a rebuild would be the fork oil used. Gen II models typical use
RossKean
Well-known member
Other than the obvious clamping differences at the axle end of the forks, the only major difference that concerns a rebuild would be the fork oil used. Gen II models typical use
I assume that is because lard is slower than 10wt oil? (or maybe that's a reflection on Gen II owners!)
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
RossKean
Well-known member
OOPS - Duplicate post
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