Handle bar position options (09 ABS

[Rheal]

Hello all,

I've been riding my 09 ABS (Canadian) for 1 1/2 months now with the standard seat and standard bar setup. I have no short term plans to swap seats ... too many other higher priority add-ons I need first and a limited budget naturally. I do love the bike but am not 100% happy with the ridding position, but am not experiencing much wrist fatigue with some mid to high back fatigue. I am not happy with the bar angle though .. I would like them swept back just a wee bit. It seems to me my wrists are not in a natural position with the bars as is. I ordered and received a set of GenMar risers 1 1/2 weeks ago. Bad weather and other duties have prevented me from installing these. I have no garage so I must work out of doors. By looking at the FJR service manual (my first purchase), seems to me that suggests the bars can be installed in a number of ways, depending on where we place the 2 mounting pints (3 holes available per pin):

forward (use both forward most pin positions)
mid (as supplied: mid pin position used)
back or closer to the rider (use both rear most pin positions)
AND rotated back or forward. (I am speculating the outside pin would be in rear most position and inside pin would be either in the mid position or the forward position)
There has been no mention that I can find in the Forum on rotating the bars back. Am I reading the service manual incorrectly? Am thinking of of rotating the bars back ... thus bringing them back 1 to 2 inches I'd guess PLUS install the GenMar risers for a 1" rise or so.

- Am I dreaming here or are these viable options?

- Has anyone else tried this or a similar setup?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

[RaYzerman19]

You cannot rotate the bars with both pins in place, as they do not line up. When you get your risers, they may have a set of pins to fit in the OEM holes. Mine were not Genmar, but I removed the inboard pin, which allowed about an inch of rotation. I found this to be a bit too much, but you may have a different preference.

 

[Rheal]

You cannot rotate the bars with both pins in place, as they do not line up. When you get your risers, they may have a set of pins to fit in the OEM holes. Mine were not Genmar, but I removed the inboard pin, which allowed about an inch of rotation. I found this to be a bit too much, but you may have a different preference.

Thanks RaYzerman19,

After finding and looking more closely at the pictures and specs of the pin hole positions, I also see that with boyh pins in place, roation is not possible. Only forward or rearward positioning is possible. I am not sure I want to remove one of the pins though ... seems to me those bars SHOULD be locked in place securely.

Question, did you need to remove the Stem nut for your install,i.e., did you need to remove the top steering brace the handle bars are attache to? I do need to remove that. And the STEM nut requires one big socket! I am well equipped with mechanical hand tools, but do not have sockest above 26 mm. I guess I can rent the socket I need from a rental place ... or purchase a socket I'll use once or twice! (I hate that).

Do you have a trick to removing that stem nut without large expense of purchasing such a socket!

Rheal

 

[RaYzerman19]

The bars are locked in place with two bolts each side, don't worry, there won't be any rotation. Other bikes have similar setups with no pins. My opinion, the pins are there just to keep alignment until you tighten the bolts.

If you just got two block risers, you shouldn't have to undo the big stem nut (36 mm). If you got a one piece type upper triple tree type riser, then you have to change the whole uppper triple tree. You will most likely have to cut the wire guides that hold the throttle cables and brake/clutch lines and wiring, and remove them.

 

[MajBach]

You cannot rotate the bars with both pins in place, as they do not line up. When you get your risers, they may have a set of pins to fit in the OEM holes. Mine were not Genmar, but I removed the inboard pin, which allowed about an inch of rotation. I found this to be a bit too much, but you may have a different preference.

Thanks RaYzerman19,

After finding and looking more closely at the pictures and specs of the pin hole positions, I also see that with boyh pins in place, roation is not possible. Only forward or rearward positioning is possible. I am not sure I want to remove one of the pins though ... seems to me those bars SHOULD be locked in place securely.

Question, did you need to remove the Stem nut for your install,i.e., did you need to remove the top steering brace the handle bars are attache to? I do need to remove that. And the STEM nut requires one big socket! I am well equipped with mechanical hand tools, but do not have sockest above 26 mm. I guess I can rent the socket I need from a rental place ... or purchase a socket I'll use once or twice! (I hate that).

Do you have a trick to removing that stem nut without large expense of purchasing such a socket!

Rheal

Fellow Canadian: I suffer the same problem and dilemma. Recently installed the riser blocks but haven't tried them on the road. Hoping for tomorrow. I too wanted a slightly more acute angle but it doesn't appear an option.

By the way, 36 mm socket: $11.59 at Canadian Tire.

And yes, you do have to remove that bolt because the black stock bolts that hold the handle bars on are not long enough to reach up through the new riser. These bolts are integrated into the black cage that holds the cables in place so you must remove the big bolt in order to remove this cage but it's not a big ordeal; I just did it a few days ago.

 

[SacramentoMike]

I don't know how helpful this post will be, 'cuz I can't help you find anything like what I have, if you like it--but I have the most swept-back handlebars I've seen on an FJR, and I really like the improvement in my riding position. I bought a pair of "Lenker" risers here on the forum from somebody who'd had them smuggled into the country somehow, I guess. I found a German language website for them once (and I don't speak German. Ever try that Google translator? :dribble: ) But anyway, I tried following links for a local--that is, stateside--supplier, and hit a wall. But then, I already had mine.

Anyway, they're adjustable, at least when you mount them, and then lock into place with setscrews. I like them close in like this to reduce my lean and weight on my wrists. They'd go even closer, but after all, you do have to turn the bike sometimes. The Bagster shown has the smaller of two stackable bags mounted, and I don't know if I could even ride with the two bags on (without adjusting the risers, anyway). That bottom bag is huge. And by the way, you could also use them to move the bars forward--almost straight out to the sides, and a million positions in between.

Anyway, I have seen these mentioned on the forum before, so maybe somebody knows how to get them, or even will pop up and offer to sell you a set. Of course, this particular pair fits a Gen One; no idea if anybody makes anything like it for a Gen Two.

Sorry about the tease for something that you may not be able to find. Guess the point of my post was to say the idea of sweeping your bars back, if you can do it, can pay off in comfort. Good luck.

How it looks on my bike. At full lock, they do press against the bag.

They're discussed here on fjr1300.info, with more pictures, and a link that I never was able to follow to an actual source. Better luck to you if you're looking.

 

[Rheal]

I don't know how helpful this post will be, 'cuz I can't help you find anything like what I have, if you like it--but I have the most swept-back handlebars I've seen on an FJR, and I really like the improvement in my riding position. I bought a pair of "Lenker" risers here on the forum from somebody who'd had them smuggled into the country somehow, I guess. I found a German language website for them once (and I don't speak German. Ever try that Google translator? :dribble: ) But anyway, I tried following links for a local--that is, stateside--supplier, and hit a wall. But then, I already had mine.

Anyway, they're adjustable, at least when you mount them, and then lock into place with setscrews. I like them close in like this to reduce my lean and weight on my wrists. They'd go even closer, but after all, you do have to turn the bike sometimes. The Bagster shown has the smaller of two stackable bags mounted, and I don't know if I could even ride with the two bags on (without adjusting the risers, anyway). That bottom bag is huge. And by the way, you could also use them to move the bars forward--almost straight out to the sides, and a million positions in between.

Anyway, I have seen these mentioned on the forum before, so maybe somebody knows how to get them, or even will pop up and offer to sell you a set. Of course, this particular pair fits a Gen One; no idea if anybody makes anything like it for a Gen Two.

Sorry about the tease for something that you may not be able to find. Guess the point of my post was to say the idea of sweeping your bars back, if you can do it, can pay off in comfort. Good luck.

How it looks on my bike. At full lock, they do press against the bag.

They're discussed here on fjr1300.info, with more pictures, and a link that I never was able to follow to an actual source. Better luck to you if you're looking.

Thanks for that info SacrementoMike,

There is a write up on how to install those adjustable risers on FJRinfo.com (I believe). That was the first reference to risers I ever read about 8 months ago when I started my "plan" to sell my Virago 1100 (sold last Nov 2010) and lookr for a suitabel FJT to replace it (purchases 15 April 2011). Those risers looked like the perfect thing ... but are all but impossible to get unless you have a German contact ... The heliBar was my second preferred option, but I did not like the cost. So I purchased a set of GenMars. I installed them yesterday 28 May and immediately when for a spin. My riding position is greatly improved! GenMar's do have fixed pins already in place. After a trip of two, if I feel I want to sweep the bars back a bit more, then I'll grind thsoe pins off!

Many thanks everyone! You're a fine bunch!

Rheal

 

[Rheal]

You cannot rotate the bars with both pins in place, as they do not line up. When you get your risers, they may have a set of pins to fit in the OEM holes. Mine were not Genmar, but I removed the inboard pin, which allowed about an inch of rotation. I found this to be a bit too much, but you may have a different preference.

Thanks RaYzerman19,

After finding and looking more closely at the pictures and specs of the pin hole positions, I also see that with boyh pins in place, roation is not possible. Only forward or rearward positioning is possible. I am not sure I want to remove one of the pins though ... seems to me those bars SHOULD be locked in place securely.

Question, did you need to remove the Stem nut for your install,i.e., did you need to remove the top steering brace the handle bars are attache to? I do need to remove that. And the STEM nut requires one big socket! I am well equipped with mechanical hand tools, but do not have sockest above 26 mm. I guess I can rent the socket I need from a rental place ... or purchase a socket I'll use once or twice! (I hate that).

Do you have a trick to removing that stem nut without large expense of purchasing such a socket!

Rheal

Fellow Canadian: I suffer the same problem and dilemma. Recently installed the riser blocks but haven't tried them on the road. Hoping for tomorrow. I too wanted a slightly more acute angle but it doesn't appear an option.

By the way, 36 mm socket: $11.59 at Canadian Tire.

And yes, you do have to remove that bolt because the black stock bolts that hold the handle bars on are not long enough to reach up through the new riser. These bolts are integrated into the black cage that holds the cables in place so you must remove the big bolt in order to remove this cage but it's not a big ordeal; I just did it a few days ago.

MajMach!

I figured such a big socket would cost me 30 to 50 buck! but I checked good old Canadian Tire! Bingo, 36 mm socket for $11.59. (plus the $25 for the torque wrench I purchased 2 weeks ago.) So the rain let up yesterday afternoon, so I got to it and installed my GenMar risers. Great improvement in riding position.

As an aside, I was going to add Locktite to the case lock screws. Those are TORX screws (no problem, I got those) but I still could not get them off! There is a small center stud in the center of the screw head that prevents us from inserting the TORX wrench! What the F**K? My screws look nice and tight (09 model year) but I've seen the postings, so I expect that sooner or later they will become loose. How is everyone getting around this problem? is everyone using pliers or something to get those TORX bolts out and then replace them with something easier to manage such as Allen head bolts?

Thanks all!

 

[dsmack]

What you have discovered are Security Torx head screws, as compared to standard Torx. The little stud in the middle supposedly deters theft...

A set of security Torx drivers can be found at Sears, Harbor Freight, etc. Just a couple of bucks or so.

PIA, aren't they? :angry:

 

[MajBach]

While on the subject of handle bar positions...

I too added the risers to my '09 and didn't feel a difference right away. It was almost like I hadn't installed them at all (might have been because I only had 1000 miles on the bike and waited three weeks without riding before I installed them so I didn't notice the change). However, I just completed a 2 week ride over 2000 miles and did not experience the same shoulder ailments as previous.

However, I still do not care for the angle the bars form. Is there a way to bring them in a little?