So i looked in my manual and tell me if this is correct: the relay trigger I want to use to trigger a second relay for my Valetine and Nuvi is the left most (sitting on the bike)relay behind the dash and it is the blue/green wire? Is this correct?
headlight realsy as trigger
- Thread starter edjo69
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
SLK50
Well-known member
TomInPA
Well-known member
Ever used a Posi-tap? I'm looking for a local seller for these to hook up a FuzeBlock and other items.
The only relay i can find with a blu/green wire is behind the dash on the right side of the bike?? as in this linkMy link
Last edited by a moderator:
HIGHLANDER
naewittyshitepostedeere
I read your other post and think your setting your stuff up backwards, since the heated grips pull a lot more power than the V1 & Nuvi, the grips should be tied to the headlight circuit relay and the V1 and Nuvi powered off of the Signal light that you now power the grips from.
SLK50
Well-known member
OK, my f/u. I didn't notice your bike is an '05. I just assumed it was a Gen II. You may be correct
in that the relay is on the right, sorry if I misdirected you. AFAIK, you DO want the blue/green wire.
SLK50
Well-known member
When I started doing installs on my then new FJR, I bought several Posi-taps ( online )Ever used a Posi-tap? I'm looking for a local seller for these to hook up a FuzeBlock and other items.
thinking they would be the Cat's Meow. I decided, however, to go to soldered splices with
heat-shrink instead for a more trouble-free permanent connection.
Posi-taps still seem like the easiest way to make electrical connections, though.
I think they are now available at NAPA stores and maybe Walmart, too.
72Duster340
Well-known member
I personally do not like a tap that cuts the insulation of the wire and does not seal the connection from water. Down the road when water gets into the wires and the wires start to corrode you start having intermittant electrical problems.
starwolf
Well-known member
72Duster340 said,I personally do not like a tap that cuts the insulation of the wire and does not seal the connection from water. Down the road when water gets into the wires and the wires start to corrode you start having intermittant electrical problems
I would like to second that, just had my bike down
doing some Maint. and got rid of all the plastic taps,
soldered all the wires and used heat shrink, noticed
that most of them were corroded when I took them apart,
just my two cents worth
ride safe
I would like to second that, just had my bike down
doing some Maint. and got rid of all the plastic taps,
soldered all the wires and used heat shrink, noticed
that most of them were corroded when I took them apart,
just my two cents worth
ride safe
TomInPA
Well-known member
On my cruiser all splices are soldered. I'll go that way with the FJR as well. I was curious about the Posi-tap as it seemed superior to the 3M splices.
I do solder and shrink wrap everything. Thanks for all the help I am going to try the blue green wire on the right side of the dash and keep my finger crossed. Highlander, just the trigger for the heated grips is off the driving lights, once it triggers the relay all the juice for the heated grips is pulled directly off the battery via the relay. The reason I want the Nuvi and the Valentine off the headlight relay is because when you turn the ignition on they start up and then re-start once the bike is fired, with them triggered off the headlights they will only start up once, when the bike is running, no double starts.
Last edited by a moderator:
My relays are wired directly to the battery. The only wire tapped into the harness is the trigger wire, one to the driving lights for the heated grips and the other to the headlight relay. But the relays are hard wired directly to the battery, so the main drawn for each acc. comes straight off the battery.Bounce said:
Last edited by a moderator:
Use your V/O meter and dope out your connections. It's pretty simply and avoids releasing the magic smoke. If you're doing electrical mods a V/O meter is a minimum requirement. There's a credit-card sized one at Rat Shack that can be packed on the bike for trouble shooting when on trips too.
Thanx Bounce. I made all the final connections this morning, turned the ignition switch on, nothing, then fired her up and bing, the V1 and the Nuvi start up. Yeah, no more double starts on my two favorite pieces of "survival equipment". Again thank you all for you help. :yahoo: :yahoo:
