Help with my CCS100 Cruise Control

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67DLA

67DLA

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I am in desperate need of some help. I am at my witts end. I have installed the CCS100 on my 08 FJR 3 times. The first two time I was so frustrated I removed it from the bike completely, this time I have at least left it on while seeking help. I have installed the unit per the most poular instructions fornd here on our forum and the unit does absolutely nothing. I installed the cable and connected it to the tang on the throttle bracket with little or no slack. I have installed the vaccum lines with an extra PVC canister and a small check valve. I have it wired up like I think I should. The control pad lights up when I start the bike as well as it lights up further when I hit the on button. Before I sealed up the servo I turned on the key and turned on the cruise and the LED in the servo also lit up. I have also set the dip swithches with #1 and #4 to ON as well as removed the jumper. The problem is...as I ride down the road at about 45 or 50 I hit the "on" button, then the "set" button, then I release the throttel and the bike starts decelerating. There is nothing to show me that the unit is doing anything. I dont here anything or feel anything. With everything all burried under the tank and such I have no clue what is wrong. The only sign of life in the unit is the lighted control pad.

Has anyone else seen this problem. I am hoping someone has and can help. I have removed my tank and all the other parts so much I am starting to strip the tank bolts. I do need to replace the tank bolts due to the fact that the round allen wrench works good at the angle but really not designred for heavy torque. So I need new bolts. Any good suggestions on that as well?

 
Might be a stupid question, but are you certain that the check valve is allowing air to flow the correct direction? No/lack of vacuum is one potential cause for those symptoms.

 
The torque spec on those tank bolts is only like 7 ft-lbs. EASY on those. They don't take much.

 
I think it is. I just went out to double check. I removed the valve and gently blew through it to check. I have it installed so that the air flow goes towards the engine from the servo/canister.

 
Check your coil connection or wherever your taking the tachometer signal from. If not correct, like a reversed ground, the unit won't be receiving a signal to base it's rpm reference.

 
I made a splitter to connect to the top of the coil and the connected the blue wire to the other wire of the splitter. Should I just use the grey w/ red wire down under the seat? I am not sure which side of the coil that I have connected to. It was kind of hard to see under there, but I must have made the basic connection to the coil okay as the bike still runs as before.

 
The Gen-II bikes have a brake light relay, so tapping into the brake light wire for the brake light signal may not work. Make sure that the CCS's purple wire has ZERO volts when the brakes are off. Not low volts, or half a volt, but ZERO volts. Any voltage on that wire will make the brain think the brakes are on and it won't set. LED brakelight kits, whether replacemaent or add-on lights, will leave a small voltage on the brake light wire even when the lights are off, and the Gen-II seems to do that even without LED add-ons.You may have to find the diode/relay setup for that.

(While you're at it, make sure the brake pedal isn't sticking and leaving the brake lights on as you ride. It's a common issue.)

Also, try changing SW7. That's been a fix for Gen-II bikes for some reason. Sometimes.

 
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Going by memory, there is a gray wire coming from the CC switch, which I had initially interpreted the instructions to say it wasn't used. It is a ground, and needs to be hooked to ground.

 
Several quick checks can be done by removing the 10 wire servo cover and watching the red led. My CCS-100 installs are several years, so hopefully its the same.

Ignition key on: engage set button and the red led should go on(green wire), engage resume button and the red led should go on(yellow wire), engage front brake and red led should go on, engage rear brake and red led should go on(purple wire)

Start the engine and the red led light should vary with engine speed(blue wire to coil)

 
Before you do ANYTHING else, follow wfooshee's advice given above.

Voltage at the brake wire has been the bane on many CCS installs.

 
RaYzerman19 said:
Going by memory, there is a gray wire coming from the CC switch, which I had initially interpreted the instructions to say it wasn't used. It is a ground, and needs to be hooked to ground.
Click to expand...
That only grounds the control pad, not the CCS itself. If the control pad lights up, that one's good.

 
I took the cover off of the CC. I turned the key on and the pad lit up. I started the engine. I hit the on button and the power LED on the pad and the red LED in the CC both lit up. I hit the set button and the LED in the CC went out instantly. I had to turn the CC off and then back on for the red LED to light up again.

I also disconnected my LED runnung lights so there will be no issues with them. Once the CC is working I will need to figure out how to hook them back up.

 
I FINALLY GOT IT!!!! I double checked all of my electrical connections as well as disconnected my LED lights. I can't be sure which step solved the problem. There was a loose wire with one of the scotch lock fittings, as well as I changed the tap at the coil from the post with the orange wire to the post with the grey/red wire. I appreciate all the help and input everyone contributed.

The units probably drops down about 2 mph or so like I have read others do, but it doesn't seem to turn off as instantaniously as I thought that it would. I am kind of processing two actions at once though. I also did the throttle unwind which allows the bike to decelerate more gradual than the almost downshifting type of deceleration with the spring so tight. Is it natural for the CC to seem to stay engaged just a bit after the brake is applied. I never tried to bring the bike to a stop with this action, I just did it to turn off the cruise.

Does anyone know how I am to make it so my LED lights can be reconnected. When I bought the unit from Murphs I ordered the piece to allow the LED's and the CC to work together, but without directions from them, and not reading anyone else discuss this I am at a loss. I am just asking for just a little bit more help and I'll be out of your hair.

 
Throttle should close instantly when the brakes are applied, but if your throttle cable is binding you'll see some run-on. It may have been binding all this time, but you didn't notice because when you ride manually you pull it closed at the grip. Try just letting go of the grip and see if it closes. If not, then adjust your throttle cables to eliminate binding. It's possible the binding is the CCS cable if it's bent to tightly somewhere.

And yes, you were on the wrong coil wire.

Can't answer the LED lights question, but those almost always require a relay to completely separate the cruise from the brake light wire when the brakes are off.

 
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Not to hijack, but had a question. I too am in the middle of finishing cruise install. Got all the wiring to try and figure out along with what to do with all the damn wires. Found out I can My question is if anyone has screwed up the drilling of the tag and if there is any fix? Mine is alittle thin and I am afraid the scrrew will eventually wear thru!

 
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