Howto Hardwire Spot Satellite Messenger / Tracker / Locator

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RiderX

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Anyone who puts on a lot of miles and uses a Spot Device for constant run tracking purposes (think multi-day rallies/cert rides) knows that the lithium battery requirement gets old in a hurry. The reason lithium AAA batteries are required is because lithiums hold a better voltage even when their useful life has expired. The typical lithium will run about 1.7V when new and drop down to around 1.4. A regular old alkaline drops off significantly when the battery runs "low". This is no good for spot.

I've always wanted to hardwire the spot to the bike as changing these things out (especially for Spot2 in tracking) is cumbersome (well it's not hard to do, but I don't want to pay for the fancy batteries and think about changing them out).

CAUTION

Hardwiring the Spot Tracker does not allow operation by you if you've been thrown from the bike and down a cliff, etc. Strapping to your body on an armband or clear pocket will cover you in more situations if you need to use the 911 feature and get help (in a no cell coverage scenario, etc.). I am using a RAM mount (like many) and had it secured to the bike anyway.

If you have an original spot (takes only two batteries), you will need a voltage regulator (LM317, etc.). If you are like me and have a Spot 2 (the current model), the three AAA lithium system runs great off 5V with no regulator required. So I fashioned my setup to use 5V USB.

Here is what you need:

The receptacle from 3brpowersports is much like other "waterproof" usb jacks available. The thing that is great is the molded cables that allow the connection to be completely waterproof and dustproof while connected. Little spendy, but very cool product that works.

Here is the end result which shows the waterproof connector:

8719973774_b2c31439c1.jpg


Bear with me while I continue next post.

 
Here's what I did. I got the cheapest molded TAPP cap premade cord. I chopped off the non-TAPP cap end and used a 3.5mm wire stripper to remove some insulation. Between the red and black wires you will have a voltage of 5. I tried soldering to the dummy cells, but solder did not want to sit on the surface. I ended up putting a solder pad on each of the (red and black) thin wires and just using the spring tension to hold the wiring in place. There are better ways to do this and I've seen dowels used for this sort of purpose elsewhere. The spring tension feels pretty good and I don't anticipate issues. Note that the green dummy cells from Hong Kong that I got via Ebay are conductive. So do not put the middle one in (or you'll short it out). I wanted to use dummy cells 1) for spring tension 2) to have the modfication be completely reversable allowing one to get to a destination and breaking out their trusty extra Spot back and set of batteries and go hike someplace remote, etc.

8718851647_f555c79226.jpg


I next drilled a 9/64" hole to accomodate the TAPP pigtail:

8718849117_6a6dabaff7.jpg


Here it is all buttoned up:

8719972704_7450e7db5a.jpg


The Spot would go into the Ram mount with a little persuassion, but putting undue strain as it exited the unit. So I took the dremel and made a path for the cord. The lateral strength is restored when the diamond ball is secured back to the unit. Patience with a Dremel is not my strong suit, but it did the job (I still need more Gen II Right mirror glass, lol).

8718854431_d3b4e2a137.jpg


8718855017_14d8127373.jpg


Hope this is useful to those who need it.

 
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I have been thinking about doing something similar to my SPOT 2. Since it runs on 5 volts it is the same as the USB and there are many USB adapters that take 12V DC and convert it to 5V DC, so that part is simple and inexpensive. Thanks for showing me that it can be done. My idea is a little different from what you have done, but similar.

The thing that I want to do that you have not done is to include batteries for the case where I use the SPOT off the bike or in case of a failure of the 5V supply. I think I can use rechargeable batteries in the SPOT as long as I don't expect them to run the device for too long, but I won't know until I try it.

 
The thing that I want to do that you have not done is to include batteries for the case where I use the SPOT off the bike or in case of a failure of the 5V supply. I think I can use rechargeable batteries in the SPOT as long as I don't expect them to run the device for too long, but I won't know until I try it.
Yeah, I thought of that. I didn't know the voltage characteristics of rechargeables over time (with some discharge). Any battery guys out there? Can the rechargeables handle a constant 5V?

 
Rechargables usually onlly have a voltage of 1.2 each, so 3 would fall perhaps too short of 5V to work.... Nothing wrong with alkalines for a day's use.

 
You will still need a waterproof connector (while plugged in) which is all the expense-> so might as well hook your Spot2 up! Nothing lost. They shipping that thing yet?

 
Actually J.- I am afraid to make any changes right now before our ride.

I will however address this issue afterwards, as I am tired of dishing the $ for the Lith. Batt.

I have still got the computer puzzle that I need to take care of.... and time is ticking away.

Tomorrow I leave out on a ride - not even sure where as things are changing every day, but

I have always taken 1 ride at a time - and I fear this time it may cost me.... BIG time.

 
I have a waterproof SAE connector installed that I use for my battery charger. It is hardwired directly to the battery and has a fuse, though it should probably have a second fuse of smaller amp's for the 12v to 5v voltage regulator.

 
Geezer: I don't think so, fuse is for the wiring. I think you're fine there. I was discussing the rechargeables idea with a tinkerer, and I think you'd need logic to stop the batteries from over charging. ??

Tony: I'd be happy to help you out with some routing practice before we get our info. I'll be riding from ATL to Pitt on the Friday prior. I also have many data sets from rallies past if that would help you. -J

 
Geezer: I don't think so, fuse is for the wiring. I think you're fine there. I was discussing the rechargeables idea with a tinkerer, and I think you'd need logic to stop the batteries from over charging. ??
Tony: I'd be happy to help you out with some routing practice before we get our info. I'll be riding from ATL to Pitt on the Friday prior. I also have many data sets from rallies past if that would help you. -J
OK, thanks for following up on the rechargeables for me. I will probably drop the rechargeable idea and just go with something similar to what you did. Those Lithium batteries are too expensive to keep using them.

 
Geezer: I don't think so, fuse is for the wiring. I think you're fine there. I was discussing the rechargeables idea with a tinkerer, and I think you'd need logic to stop the batteries from over charging. ??
Tony: I'd be happy to help you out with some routing practice before we get our info. I'll be riding from ATL to Pitt on the Friday prior. I also have many data sets from rallies past if that would help you. -J

Thanks! I this is great info. It is not the cost of the batteries that worries me so much as the time it takes to change them, and the need to always carry spares. When you are on the clock and find your batteries going, and it is raining , and you are a zillion miles from any form of cover......changing those batteries is a huge PITA.

 

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