Iginition switch failure (I did the search already...)

[omnislash]

Alright, I read the thread on the recall for failed ignition switches. But the last post in it is Jan 2009 and the "affected" models does not include mine.

My ride is an 02 model and I'm experiencing the problem now, coming to 7 years of age. I reckon the problem might be due to my personal habit of locking the handle bar to the right instead of the usual left resulting in cyclical tensioning of the ignition switch wiring harness thus wearing out the connectors within the assy.

I dont mind replacing the assy on my own but I tried to look for the fasteners but found NONE!!! The assy is somewhat riveted to the triple clamp!!! Now how the hell can I replace this shit?

I took out the cable tie and secured it to another wiring harness and I think it did the job, at least reduce the number of times the power is cut. I know its just a temporary solution and would want it fixed permanently. Wouldnt want to risk it on a track day.

 

[FJR Flyer]

If its like the Gen II switches, you have to drill out the security bolts. A bit of a PITA. Look thru the Tech Bulletin (link at the beginning of the recall post) to see how its done. Drill press required. Difficult but doable.

 

[SkooterG]

Did you try cycling the switch on/off 50-100 times?

Sometimes it's just dirt.

 

[Intech]

If its like the Gen II switches, you have to drill out the security bolts. A bit of a PITA. Look thru the Tech Bulletin (link at the beginning of the recall post) to see how its done. Drill press required. Difficult but doable.

I replaced the ignition on my '97 Bandit. I drilled out the security bolts and used regular bolts to replace them. If someone was going to steal that bike by replacing the ignition all they would have to do is unplug it and plug another one in, ride off and then replace the one on the tree later. Haven't gotten into the harness on the FJR, so I don't know if it would be as easy. Even if someone was set on stealing the FJR would they do it by removing the ignition? I suppose that would work if the location was concealed and they really knew what they were doing. If someone was that set on stealing the bike would security bolts really matter? Just my $.02

 

[omnislash]

If its like the Gen II switches, you have to drill out the security bolts. A bit of a PITA. Look thru the Tech Bulletin (link at the beginning of the recall post) to see how its done. Drill press required. Difficult but doable.

That is really helpful. Will get a new switch assy.

Thing is, mine is a Gen I model. I know Gen I ABS onwards has the Anti Theft system. Duplicate keys wont be able to start the bike even. The Recall Kit is for a Gen II model.

Q1: If I order an assy for my model, PN 5JW-82501-10-00, will the switch assy come with the cover installed or not? Cuz I plan to use back the old key cylinder. If it comes installed, I'll have to drill out the new cylinder as well right and wont have the hardware to install back the cover.

Q2: I f I order the kit, PN 90891-30058-00, the cover should come separate but will it fit my 02 model key cylinder?

Urgh, this is so vexing.

 

[SkooterG]

Did you cycle the key on/off dozens of times to make sure it simply wasn't dirt?

 

[fjrob1300]

I took mine apart and cleaned it out. here's a couple of pics.

Carefully drill out screw heads

Clean with wd40 or something like it

Good luck

 

[Brodie]

Omnislash

At the risk of using an overused expression, pictures are worth a thousand words. Here is a thread showing the recall switch being disassembled. The security screws were drilled out using a cordless drill and a screw extractor from Sears. If you are careful there is no need for a drill press, I did it in my lap.

You may want to take your switch apart to see if you can repair it first. The contact plate can be indexed 180 degrees - if that is the problem. Might save you some money.

I have not seen a European model ignition switch - let alone one from such an early model FJR. Have a good look at the pictures and make your own judgement whether or not it will help you.

Track day... COOL! :yahoo:

You will have to post pictures.
Brodie

 

[omnislash]

If its like the Gen II switches, you have to drill out the security bolts. A bit of a PITA. Look thru the Tech Bulletin (link at the beginning of the recall post) to see how its done. Drill press required. Difficult but doable.

That is really helpful. Will get a new switch assy.

Thing is, mine is a Gen I model. I know Gen I ABS onwards has the Anti Theft system. Duplicate keys wont be able to start the bike even. The Recall Kit is for a Gen II model.

Q1: If I order an assy for my model, PN 5JW-82501-10-00, will the switch assy come with the cover installed or not? Cuz I plan to use back the old key cylinder. If it comes installed, I'll have to drill out the new cylinder as well right and wont have the hardware to install back the cover.

Q2: I f I order the kit, PN 90891-30058-00, the cover should come separate but will it fit my 02 model key cylinder?

Urgh, this is so vexing.

Hi, I haven done that. I'm pretty sure the cause of it is excessive/cyclical movement of the harness. After I removed the tie wrap and on the ignition, I played with the harness by moving it in around. The power would cut off at certain positions and certain positions only.

 

[omnislash]

I took mine apart and cleaned it out. here's a couple of pics.

Carefully drill out screw heads

Clean with wd40 or something like it

Good luck

Hi, I've actually browsed thru the technical bulletin...

The security screws that mount the Switch Assy to the Tripple clamp can be ordered readily. Its the security screws that holds the Key Cylinder to the Cover (the one under the rubber cap) that I'm worried about.

Which brings us back to my question:

If I order an 02 Model switch assy, am I able to transfer the key cylinder from the old assy to the new assy?

(because if i were to drill out the security screws for the cover, I will not have any to fasten it back right? Unless the assy comes unassembled.)

 

[Brodie]

omnislash

You can replace the security screws with a standard metric pan head screw. I ran my self-repaired switch that way for over a year. Nobody will ever know. I suggest taking it apart first before spending the money. When you get it that far apart you may find the actual problem. Could be a pulled wire from the contact plate, could be a flex fatigued wire in the harness. It may be an easy fix like mine was.

I have a feeling it will be the same switch housing as is on all the other FJR ignition switches posted on this forum. Do a Google search for ignition switch site:fjrforum.com and look at all the different switches that were dismantled. If your's is physically different, post some pictures. I'd sure like to see the changes through the years.

Brodie

 

[TILAM]

I have a Canadian 06 which I believe is the same as the European model of the same vintage. The internals of the switch are essentially the same but be sure to buy the right part number for your model. If it is burnt contacts or solder failure then the "Brodie Harness" will work with it. I used pan head metric screws (4mm I think) for the cover and used blue loctite with them. No problems in a year.

 

[Brodie]

<snip>If it is burnt contacts or solder failure then the "Brodie Harness" will work with it.

<snip>

omnislash

For what it's worth...

If you decide to go this route, make sure the switch is fixed first. The "Brodie Harness" requires a fully functional ignition switch in order to do it's job.

Good luck!

 

[Brodie]

<snip>The security screws that mount the Switch Assy to the Tripple clamp can be ordered readily. Its the security screws that holds the Key Cylinder to the Cover (the one under the rubber cap) that I'm worried about.

Which brings us back to my question:

If I order an 02 Model switch assy, am I able to transfer the key cylinder from the old assy to the new assy?

(because if i were to drill out the security screws for the cover, I will not have any to fasten it back right? Unless the assy comes unassembled.)

omnislash

As you can see by the picture below, the cover over the lock cylinder is held down by 2 screws.

Note the 2 threaded holes (4mm) in the switch body, and the counter bored mating holes in the cover.

These are hidden by the fork's upper triple clamp. The recall switch comes from Yamaha with these security screws loose so the dealer could easily swap out the lock cylinder. As been said before, use pan head screws if you don't have security screws. With the switch re installed there is no direct access to these screws anyway.

Keep us posted.

Brodie

 

[omnislash]

<snip>The security screws that mount the Switch Assy to the Tripple clamp can be ordered readily. Its the security screws that holds the Key Cylinder to the Cover (the one under the rubber cap) that I'm worried about.

Which brings us back to my question:

If I order an 02 Model switch assy, am I able to transfer the key cylinder from the old assy to the new assy?

(because if i were to drill out the security screws for the cover, I will not have any to fasten it back right? Unless the assy comes unassembled.)

omnislash

As you can see by the picture below, the cover over the lock cylinder is held down by 2 screws.

Note the 2 threaded holes (4mm) in the switch body, and the counter bored mating holes in the cover.

These are hidden by the fork's upper triple clamp. The recall switch comes from Yamaha with these security screws loose so the dealer could easily swap out the lock cylinder. As been said before, use pan head screws if you don't have security screws. With the switch re installed there is no direct access to these screws anyway.

Keep us posted.

Brodie

Roger that. It might take me a week or more to get the job started cuz having a means of transport is critical for me.

It didnt give me any problems for the past 2 days but I still wanna open it up to have a look. And next tuesday is track day.....

 

[omnislash]

Hi Brodie,

I know its been yrs from the date I promised to update.... Just plain lazy.. No excuses...

Anyway, I drilled out all the screws and disassembled the parts. The solder looks great and all five wires pass the continuity check. The only less than perfect condition is the copper plates on the other side of the soldered joints. They looked pretty worn but I didn't feel it can cause the intermittent failure.

I cleaned up the parts with alcohol, assembled them back and did a quick check on the bike. The problem still exists....

What the heck. Rushed down to agent and got the part for a whopping SGD$128. The part came as a piece. Had no time to replace the key cylinder so simply install the unit as a hole using internal wrenching bolts.

Finally no heart stopping and engine stopping moments while cornering.

 

[Brodie]

Omnislash

I'm glad you now have a working bike again. Intermittent problems are the worst kind to try to solve. I am curious how you got past the ignition immobilizer with the new key. Since you did not have time to swap out the lock cylinder, are you forced to have the original key with you when you start/drive the bike?

Looking back at your pictures, I do see some heat discoloration on the contact plate next to your thumb. That looks like the set of contacts which carried the high amperage load. I know you have a new switch, but if you haven't disposed of your old switch yet you may want to have another look at the white plastic carrier surrounding that floating contact plate. Any kind of heat damage may have caused the floating plate to bind up.

Now this is just speculation mind you, but if it were binding and causing very light contact, then the motion of the wires may tug the lower wiper plate enough to momentarily open the circuit.


If you choose not to look any further, thats fine. Go ride - enjoy your bike. Have fun at the track. Just know this, the switch is back to the way it was when new. It's the same design - as far as I can tell - as the 2nd generation bikes which were recalled. There are several forum members who also had problems with their 1st gen. switches. You may want to install an ignition switch relay if you plan to keep the bike for a while.

I think I might know where you can get one.

Brodie

 

[omnislash]

Mine is an 02 model. The earliest of the Gen I and the ignition assy do not have the immobilizer. Apparently, even the Gen I has diff models. Mine is a 5JW4 and its the same as a 5JW1 whereas the 5JW2 and 5JW3 shares another part # for the ignition assy. The contact plates should be the same but I suspect the connector might be diff.

However, I believe newer models and those with the immobilizer contact plates might be different, dont you think, since they have should additional circuitry to communicate with the ECU.

I still have the old assy with me and taken a second look on your advice. Again, nothing suspicious. Floating plate has enough play and with the cover installed, it should be snug and tight.

With or without the immobilizer, I still need to wake the bike up with the new original key. The old key is needed for fueling and panniers obviously.

Ignition switch relay? :huh:

 

[racer]

I have an 04, but have not gotten a recall notice, I'm the second owner. I installed Brodie's relay mod last winter. Do I need to install a new switch too?