Installing cruise control this weekend...

[Shawn]

Ok, the long awaited weekend is almost here - Audiovox install!

I have read tons of posts here and elsewhere on this mod and I thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I do have a couple af really simple questions before I begin...

• When tieing the CC into the brake harness, would Posi-Taps be alright, or should I go ahead and plan on cutting/splicing/soldering?
• I bought the check valves from US Plastics recommended by Smitty (?) - I have never messed with vacuum lines and valves - I assume the arrow embossed on them indicates the flow and therefore should point towards the engine?

Thanks in advance - I'll try not to bother you with to many questions this weekend related to this "Adventure"...

 

[Afast03nNJ]

Cut & solder is the best connection.

The arrow indicates flow, twards the engine.

 

[ionbeam]

Cut & solder is the best connection...

Assuming that you have the correct soldering equipment and have some soldering skills. Else, use a Posi-Tap.

 

[Shane]

Engine sucks vacuum, should draw towards it.

Posi taps have worked well for several installs with no verifiable issues after several years. That said, I would not claim that they are superior to solder.

Shane

 

[Shawn]

Thanks guys! I can solder - thanks to my ham radio days...

I'll keep you posted!

 

[wfooshee]

I originally used cheap crimp taps, completely forgetting I was working on a motorcycle, not a weather-protected car stereo. CC worked for 2 months and then became very moody. Went back in and soldered everything and covered with heat-shrink, no problems after 2 more years.

Posi-taps are probably OK, but I still feel better with rain-accessible splices being soldered and tightly wrapped.

 

[Zorlac]

Thanks guys! I can solder - thanks to my ham radio days...I'll keep you posted!

Ahhh, so you're familiar with "the bigger the blob, the better the job" mantra. After you get the throttle tang drilled and the CC unit mounted, it's pretty straight forward.

Once you hit the engage button and it takes over, the installation struggle is long forgotten. :yahoo:

 

[Shawn]

Ok, tank is off and air induction system is off and in the cabinet in the garage (it isn't going back on).

So far no scratches on the bike, but I did manage to jab my finger with a small screw driver (trying to undo the elec connector on the air induction system) and drew blood - so , i guess that makes the score Me 0 FJR 1 ...

The real action will begin tomorrow!

PS - will be soldering the connections...

 

[smitty141]

Shawn, I will pm you my phone # if I can help, give me a call. Soldering is the best way with a piece of heat shrink..

Smitty

 

[BrunDog]

I would recommend the "non-disruptive" solder method: Using a REAL wire stripper (NOT dykes) cut the insulation circumferentially around the wire in two places, about 1/2" apart. Using a razor, slit the insulation longitudinally along the wire between the two cuts. Be careful in both operations to NOT cut any copper. Remove the little section of insulation. Also strip the end of the wire to be added. Put a small amount of flux (solder paste) on both the exposed wire and the wire end to be added. Tin both by heating wires with solder iron then adding solder. Now place together, physically parallel, and hold with spare clamp, clip, or other. Now solder two together. Mo' solder is NOT mo' betta. Finally, paint with several coats of liquid insulation, allowing to dry between coats. Follow with good grade vinyl electric tape, like Super 33, etc, tightly wrapped.

This type of connection does not disrupt the original connection and does not change the joints impedance. It takes up very little space, is super-stable, and is weather resistant. Also, it can be completely reversed (sans small original insulation) if needed.

Natch, YMMV.

-BD

 

[Roy Epperson]

+200 on this technique. You don't wanta cut through the harness wire. If you do, Murphy will definitely visit down the road

I would recommend the "non-disruptive" solder method: Using a REAL wire stripper (NOT dykes) cut the insulation circumferentially around the wire in two places, about 1/2" apart. Using a razor, slit the insulation longitudinally along the wire between the two cuts. Be careful in both operations to NOT cut any copper. Remove the little section of insulation. Also strip the end of the wire to be added. Put a small amount of flux (solder paste) on both the exposed wire and the wire end to be added. Tin both by heating wires with solder iron then adding solder. Now place together, physically parallel, and hold with spare clamp, clip, or other. Now solder two together. Mo' solder is NOT mo' betta. Finally, paint with several coats of liquid insulation, allowing to dry between coats. Follow with good grade vinyl electric tape, like Super 33, etc, tightly wrapped.
This type of connection does not disrupt the original connection and does not change the joints impedance. It takes up very little space, is super-stable, and is weather resistant. Also, it can be completely reversed (sans small original insulation) if needed.

Natch, YMMV.

-BD

 

[Hit the Road Jack]

I would recommend the "non-disruptive" solder method: Using a REAL wire stripper (NOT dykes) cut the insulation circumferentially around the wire in two places, about 1/2" apart. Using a razor, slit the insulation longitudinally along the wire between the two cuts. Be careful in both operations to NOT cut any copper. Remove the little section of insulation. Also strip the end of the wire to be added. Put a small amount of flux (solder paste) on both the exposed wire and the wire end to be added. Tin both by heating wires with solder iron then adding solder. Now place together, physically parallel, and hold with spare clamp, clip, or other. Now solder two together. Mo' solder is NOT mo' betta. Finally, paint with several coats of liquid insulation, allowing to dry between coats. Follow with good grade vinyl electric tape, like Super 33, etc, tightly wrapped.
This type of connection does not disrupt the original connection and does not change the joints impedance. It takes up very little space, is super-stable, and is weather resistant. Also, it can be completely reversed (sans small original insulation) if needed.

Natch, YMMV.

-BD

Great tip, BrunDog! I'm gonna have to remember that one.

 

[Shawn]

I would recommend the "non-disruptive" solder method: Using a REAL wire stripper (NOT dykes) cut the insulation circumferentially around the wire in two places, about 1/2" apart. Using a razor, slit the insulation longitudinally along the wire between the two cuts. Be careful in both operations to NOT cut any copper. Remove the little section of insulation. Also strip the end of the wire to be added. Put a small amount of flux (solder paste) on both the exposed wire and the wire end to be added. Tin both by heating wires with solder iron then adding solder. Now place together, physically parallel, and hold with spare clamp, clip, or other. Now solder two together. Mo' solder is NOT mo' betta. Finally, paint with several coats of liquid insulation, allowing to dry between coats. Follow with good grade vinyl electric tape, like Super 33, etc, tightly wrapped.
This type of connection does not disrupt the original connection and does not change the joints impedance. It takes up very little space, is super-stable, and is weather resistant. Also, it can be completely reversed (sans small original insulation) if needed.

Natch, YMMV.

-BD

BD, where does one find the liquid insulation? Is that something Radio Shack would have?

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, I think Rat Shack has it. Brand name is Liquid Tape, I think.

Also saw it at Home Depot recently in the electrical department.

It even comes in different colors, should you be so inclined.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

I would recommend the "non-disruptive" solder method: Using a REAL wire stripper (NOT dykes) cut the insulation circumferentially around the wire in two places, about 1/2" apart. Using a razor, slit the insulation longitudinally along the wire between the two cuts. Be careful in both operations to NOT cut any copper. Remove the little section of insulation. Also strip the end of the wire to be added. Put a small amount of flux (solder paste) on both the exposed wire and the wire end to be added. Tin both by heating wires with solder iron then adding solder. Now place together, physically parallel, and hold with spare clamp, clip, or other. Now solder two together. Mo' solder is NOT mo' betta. Finally, paint with several coats of liquid insulation, allowing to dry between coats. Follow with good grade vinyl electric tape, like Super 33, etc, tightly wrapped.
This type of connection does not disrupt the original connection and does not change the joints impedance. It takes up very little space, is super-stable, and is weather resistant. Also, it can be completely reversed (sans small original insulation) if needed.

Natch, YMMV.

-BD

BD, where does one find the liquid insulation? Is that something Radio Shack would have?

I got some at Lowes. You can find it at parts stores too https://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Li...ical_Insulation

 

[Shawn]

2nd question of the day...

I am trying to move the electrical harness out of the way (so I can remove the fuel rail) as suggested here - https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=16440&st=0

On the right side, there is this connector; how do I disconnect? I don't see any squeeze tabs or the like...

PS - guys I am real sorry for all the questions, but I do appreciate the help. If we ever meet up, you can jerk my chain abou this...

 

[Fred W]

You just need to depress the little tab while you pull the two halves apart like any connector.

But you shouldn't need to remove the fuel rail. At least I didn't. I was able to drill the hole in the throttle tab by using some tie-wraps to hold the throttle almost wide open and then angle the drill bit down from the right side.

Just leave the electrical connectors removed from the injectors (like you have them) and rotate the injectors a little in their o-rings to get them out of the way a bit.

 

[Shawn]

You just need to depress the little tab while you pull the two halves apart like any connector.

Tried that, but the male piece has a couple tabs that secure it in the female end that don't retract when you depress the tab - thought about getting out the little screwdrivers and working on those tabs, but didn't want to mess up the integrity of the connector. Then it dawned on me there is actually enough slack in the harness that i could lay it up over the top of the engine out of the way.

But you shouldn't need to remove the fuel rail. At least I didn't. I was able to drill the hole in the throttle tab by using some tie-wraps to hold the throttle almost wide open and then angle the drill bit down from the right side.
Just leave the electrical connectors removed from the injectors (like you have them) and rotate the injectors a little in their o-rings to get them out of the way a bit.

I looked at that and I just didn't feel confident I could do that without messing something up! However, I was able to easily remove the rail and the tang/tab is now exposed to my drill and stubby fingers.... Now, a quick donut run, run by NAPA for the loom, and Lowes for the liquid tape.

So far so good!

 

[extrememarine]

For the brake circuit connection, here's what I did, similiar to BD's suggestion of not cutting the wire to soldier.

I unplugged the harness on the left side near the ECU. I carefully pulled the wire out of the connector (tail section side) by prying up on the retaining tab. I was able to soldier the connection there, shrink wrap it, and put it back in the OEM connector.

Good luck.

-wr