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Nels Erickson

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So my 2005 FJR is now 5 years old and is just under 24k miles.

Oil has been regularly changed every 3k miles.

Just put in a new set of plugs.

Thottlebody Sync done last year.

Air Filter cleaned last year.

I need to check how often I need to change the shaft oil, it probably makes sense to do that soon. I'm also going to flush the brakes and put in new fluid. But aside from those any maintenance items that I'm overlooking and should perform?

 
Changing rear drive fluid is a regular maintenance item, just like oil changes. It should be done on schedule. Like many others, I change mine with every oil change using a more affordable brand than Yamaha.

At 5 years of age and 24,000 miles, you have just entered the early edge of time mattering as much, if not more than mileage. Rubber deteriorates with age. Exposure to elements such as UV light, road salt, oils, detergents etc. matters, but time is rubber's worst enemy.

I'm extremely conservative (some people call me anal retentive!) about maintenance. IMO it comes down to what you expect from your bike. If you expect to get on a five year old bike, take off across country and have nothing go wrong, then here's my list...

* Flush and bleed clutch, front brake and rear brake systems.

* Remove, clean and re-grease the drive shaft splines.

* Clean, re-grease and re-torque the steering head bearings.

* Service and rebuild the forks (lower bushings, oil seals, dust seals, fluid).

* (All in one service operation...) Check valve clearances (adjust if necessary), Replace coolant rail O-rings, Replace valve cover gasket, Replace spark plugs, Replace cam chain tensioner, Clean Air Induction System reeds (and/or cap the system), Flush and replace engine coolant, Adjust throttle body sync.

* Replace Relay Arm pivot seals(6) and grease all the suspension pivots.

* Replace front & rear wheel bearing seals(2-each).

Please note that I recommended replacing several seals. You probably don't have any bearings going bad yet, but when time defeats the seals, the bearings go quickly. Seals are much cheaper than bearings&seals, but nearly as much labor involved to replace them.

Oh, remember... You asked!

:)

 
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Changing rear drive fluid is a regular maintenance item, just like oil changes. It should be done on schedule. Like many others, I change mine with every oil change using a more affordable brand than Yamaha.
At 5 years of age and 24,000 miles, you have just entered the early edge of time mattering as much, if not more than mileage. Rubber deteriorates with age. Exposure to elements such as UV light, road salt, oils, detergents etc. matters, but time is rubber's worst enemy.

I'm extremely conservative (some people call me anal retentive!) about maintenance. IMO it comes down to what you expect from your bike. If you expect to get on a five year old bike, take off across country and have nothing go wrong, then here's my list...

* Flush and bleed clutch, front brake and rear brake systems.

* Remove, clean and re-grease the drive shaft splines.

* Clean, re-grease and re-torque the steering head bearings.

* Service and rebuild the forks (lower bushings, oil seals, dust seals, fluid).

* (All in one service operation...) Check valve clearances (adjust if necessary), Replace coolant rail O-rings, Replace valve cover gasket, Replace spark plugs, Replace cam chain tensioner, Clean Air Induction System reeds (and/or cap the system), Flush and replace engine coolant, Adjust throttle body sync.

* Replace Relay Arm pivot seals(6) and grease all the suspension pivots.

* Replace front & rear wheel bearing seals(2-each).

Please note that I recommended replacing several seals. You probably don't have any bearings going bad yet, but when time defeats the seals, the bearings go quickly. Seals are much cheaper than bearings&seals, but nearly as much labor involved to replace them.

Oh, remember... You asked!

:)
Thanks, indeed I did ask.

I should have mentioned I had the "tick" fixed last year, maybe about 3500 miles ago. I would think that it's safe to assume that the valve clearances were checked and fixed during that process, correct? Probably the valve cover gasket as well.

Replace the cam chain tensioner? Does it really wear out that fast, I would have assumed just adjusting it.

 
Replace the cam chain tensioner? Does it really wear out that fast, I would have assumed just adjusting it.
Ahhh, grasshopper....

Where do we start?

The Cam Chain Tensioner, hereafter known as the CCT, is an automatic, self-adjusting device. It can be manually adjusted, but if it MUST be manually adjusted, then it's reached its "end of life."

The OEM CCT has been known to fail in as little as 15k miles...or last longer than >100k miles. There is no suggested "lifespan" for the unit, but many suggest replacing the unit at evey-other valve check/adjust. IOW, at 52k miles, then again at 104k miles.

If you ever hear "marbles in a coffee can" noise emanating from the right side of the motor, right next to where your right knee sits while riding, your OEM CCT has reached the end of its journey. Ignore such noises at your peril.

 
Replace the cam chain tensioner? Does it really wear out that fast, I would have assumed just adjusting it.
Ahhh, grasshopper....

Where do we start?

The Cam Chain Tensioner, hereafter known as the CCT, is an automatic, self-adjusting device. It can be manually adjusted, but if it MUST be manually adjusted, then it's reached its "end of life."

The OEM CCT has been known to fail in as little as 15k miles...or last longer than >100k miles. There is no suggested "lifespan" for the unit, but many suggest replacing the unit at evey-other valve check/adjust. IOW, at 52k miles, then again at 104k miles.

If you ever hear "marbles in a coffee can" noise emanating from the right side of the motor, right next to where your right knee sits while riding, your OEM CCT has reached the end of its journey. Ignore such noises at your peril.
for me, the "marbles in a can" sound was most obvious to hear - first thing in the morning after starting a stone cold engine - heard at the times of high idle to when the engine warmed up and kicks down to normal idle while gearing up and before I pulled out of my driveway...

 
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