Key won't come out of gas tank lock.

[Dodahdude]

I have a 2004 FJR 1300. I've had it for 10 years with no problems, until now. I put the ignition key in the gas tank lock and opened it. Something told me to check and see if i had any condensation building up. This was in my garage. The key went in easily, rotated clockwise and opened. But when i closed the gas cap then rotated the key counterclockwise it locked but the key would not pull out.

I tried several times to open and close. The key will not come out. So, i pulled the key housing off the tank and took the housing to my bench. Then I disassembled the lock, and the key came out ok. I put it all back together again, but still the key will not back out. I disassembled the lock several times and the key just won't come out while fully assembled.

Has anyone had this problem or know of a fix? Thanks.

 

[RiderJoe]

I haven’t had a severe issue like you descibed. There were a couple of times when I had to push down on the gas cap with my other hand to fully lock it while turning the key and was able to remove the key that way.

 

[Bounce]

Flood the lock with aerosol silicon spray lube. The carrier will flush out the gunk and then evaporate; unlike dry graphite lube.

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/834867-blaster-silicone-spray-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=bing&blaintm_medium=pla&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Automotive%20|%20Low%20|%20Shopping%20|%20ShipTo&utm_term=4584001435311427&utm_content=Automotive%3EOils,%20Fluids,%20and%20Lubrication%3Eall%20other

Do annual PM on the entire filler assembly and vent/overflow tubes.

Have you tried making sure that it's not a thing with the key? Maybe flip it 180º to see if it's a one-way problem?

 

[RossKean]

Have a look at this thread

Gas Cap Modification

Since the Tanji is low lying cell, maybe back flow could be a bigger issue in this situation? Indeed the lower position probably makes it back-flow the easiest, although Mcavan, Sampson, and Jaz cells all do the same thing. In a nutshell, the stock tank/ cap configuration allows an absurd...

www.fjrforum.com

In particular, @Fred W contribution Post #29
There is a little spring-loaded device that prevents key removal with the cap open. You can either fix that if the spring or device is out of place or remove it entirely if you would like to be able to remove the key whether the cap is open or closed...

Edit: Photo of widget that locks key in cap

 

[Dodahdude]

Thanks to all. And, yes Ross your picture is is right for my tank. I have disassemble it several times. I’ll dry lube and try taking out the wedge and get back with you all later tonight. I’m scalping the yard to over seed the yard.

 

[Dodahdude]

The fix worked. Thanks all. The Tee shaped part my have been worn out is my guess. I do however need to push diwn slightly to pull the key. But I’m happy with it. And if no one knew the difference, well that’s a plus.

Thank you to the FJR Community.

 

[John Scottorn]

I haven’t had a severe issue like you descibed. There were a couple of times when I had to push down on the gas cap with my other hand to fully lock it while turning the key and was able to remove the key that way.

I have similar on both Gen 1 and Gen2.
The filler cap likes to be pushed down and key releases.

 

[Sunnyorlando]

Same thing on an '18, and other bikes.
Now, if it's still tough to remove they key even while pushing it in, then you may have other issues. Clean and lubricate the insides - a simple project.
For lubricant in all of my locks I use graphite and/or Houdini as lubricants.

 

[Bounce]

How do you flush the mechanism before (dry) graphiting it?

 

[RossKean]

I have never tried Houdini. I don't care for graphite - messy and perhaps not the best solution if water ingress is possible. I have used both a PTFE spray (liquid carrier evaporates) and a silicone-base spray. As needed which is not very often. On other vehicles, I have used WD-40 as a cleaner to "flood" a lock to clean it up but did a subsequent flush with silicone to displace the WD-40. WD-40 gums up after a time...

I had a sticky ignition lock issue on my '07. Combination of age and worn key (12 years and over 150,000 miles at the time on the original key - spare was unused). Wasn't helped by the fact that the spring-loaded "shutter" that is supposed to slide over the key opening was bent and not closing fully (allowing water to get in). Un-bent the shutter with a small flat screwdriver, lubed with silicone spray and switched to the unused key and it was perfect until I sold it 35,000 miles later.

 

[Bounce]

WD40 was never meant to be a lube; just a water displacement. It collects dirt and gums up faster (worse than spray silicone lube which seems to avoid that between services). The silicone spray lube can flush the works but the carrier evaporates and leaves behind a dry lube.

 

[RossKean]

WD40 was never meant to be a lube; just a water displacement. It collects dirt and gums up faster and worse that spray silicone lube. The silicone spray lube can flush the works but the carrier evaporates and leaves behind a dry lube.

The PTFE sprays are definitely a carrier/propellant that evaporate to leave a Teflon film. Graphite sprays likewise leave a dry residue, but they can be messy. The silicone spray that I have leaves a thin liquid lubricant after most of the carrier is gone. Still doesn't gum up like WD-40.

 

[Dodahdude]

Interesting