Neutral Not Neutral?

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BigAl

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I noticed the other day when I started the bike up on the center stand that the rear wheel spins while in neutral. Its almost like neutral isn't really neutral. Its not spinning really fast or anything, and I can stop it very easily with my foot. It doesn't feel like there is a lot of force, but could it be doing any damage when the wheel is down and not allowed to spin? Anyone else notice this? Is it normal? I don't recall chain and belt drive bikes i've owned doing this. Is this just normal for a shaft drive? Is an adjustment of some sort needed?

 
This is normal for all bikes with a wet clutch. The cold oil is very viscous and the clutch plates are very close together. There is enough stiction for the moving parts to impart motion to the output shaft. You should be able to easily stop the rear wheel with your foot (no hands please :nono: ) Once the oil has warmed up there will be little or no movement of the rear wheel while in neutral.

Alan

 
This is normal for all bikes with a wet clutch. The cold oil is very viscous and the clutch plates are very close together. There is enough stiction for the moving parts to impart motion to the output shaft. You should be able to easily stop the rear wheel with your foot (no hands please :nono: ) Once the oil has warmed up there will be little or no movement of the rear wheel while in neutral.
Alan
+1

Interestingly, my old Concours did this, but my FJR does not.

 
Interestingly, my old Concours did this, but my FJR does not.
Check your oil level :haha: What is wrong with your drive train? Can you move your rear wheel freely when on the center stand? Whatcha using for oil? We could be on to something big here :lol:

Alan

 
I heard that ScooterG doesn't use oil...he's trying to reduce the overall weight of the bike for increased performance.

 
This is normal for all bikes with a wet clutch. The cold oil is very viscous and the clutch plates are very close together. There is enough stiction for the moving parts to impart motion to the output shaft. You should be able to easily stop the rear wheel with your foot (no hands please :nono: ) Once the oil has warmed up there will be little or no movement of the rear wheel while in neutral.
Alan
Actually this has nothing to do with the clutch. Assuming you are off the bike (and the clutch is fully released), the plates are locked together so the engine torque is being transmitted 100% to the transmission. The viscous power transfer occurs across the transmission I/O shafts.

-BD

 
Actually this has nothing to do with the clutch. Assuming you are off the bike (and the clutch is fully released), the plates are locked together so the engine torque is being transmitted 100% to the transmission. The viscous power transfer occurs across the transmission I/O shafts.
-BD
Point taken, however, I believe the true answer lies in the middle. Because on my Concours, pulling in the clutch lever would stop the rear wheel from spinning. So the clutch must have some part in it all.

 
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Yes, because the clutch is the link between the engine and transmission. I.E., if the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch should be disengaged and the transmission should not be driven by the engine. When the clutch lever is out, the clutch is connecting the engine to the transmission mainshaft and the cold oil enough viscosity to cause a "fluid" drive betweent the gearsets. Mine does it, so did the Connie and the XS1100, it never bothered me as I saw it as normal.

 
Point taken, however, I believe the true answer lies in the middle.
No, no middle.

When you pull the clutch the torque transfer is broken between the engine and the transmission. So naturally, the wheel should not spin.

-BD

 
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Forget the clutch, tranny, or oil, it has everything to do with the centerstand.

Constant mesh transmission and hydraulic (wet) clutch = wheel will spin.

Don't worry about it BigAl.

 
Which brings me to one of my pet peeves....  Ever notice how nasty it sounds when you engage first gear with the engine/gearbox cold for the first time???  Same problem.  You disengage the pressure on the clutch plates but the extra "viscous drive" of the cold oil between the plates still drives the trans input shaft to some extent so the gear dogs really clash when you pop it into first gear for the first time.
jestal,

On my 05 I notice that shifting from neutral to first gear always causes a hefty clunk, whether it's the first shift in the morning or if I've been riding all day. I just assumed that this is normal behavior for this model bike. Is this not the case?

 
+1. Mine always clunks into first- not problem, just clunks. Shifts great through all gears.

 
Mine always clunks pretty good when shifting from neutral to first....normal I would say. It REALLY clunks (almost sounds like a gear clash if I move the lever too slowly) when it is cold , though. Once again, I consider this pretty much normal which is why I always click the motor off with the kill switch for the first shift into gear when cold.
So, if I understand you, you kill the engine, then snap it into first gear and restart the engine. I guess that's OK but it seems unnecessary. Out of the 4 different bikes I have owned I only remember 1 which didn't make a loud clunk when shifting into first and that one had neutral on the bottom and all the gears were up from there.

 
The cold sticky clutch syndrome is always worse after sitting, like parked overnight. I live on a hill, and so in the AM I coast out the driveway and let some speed build up before shifting into second. You would be surprised at what happens. Clutch in, second gear, the bike actually accelerates a bit when I blip the throttle before it frees up. In any case, this at least prevents the heaviest clunk of the day.

 
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