Problem with BJM

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Richouse

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I followed the directions Here Precisely. I can get to step 11 but when I press SELECT once to toggle to the CO mode as per step 12, it does not go into the CO mode. It just continues to read dIAG. I have checked the connections, the bike will crank and run fine. Bike has the NEW ECU as per recall for the '07 models. Does this matter? Can the new ECU's be programmed? When I did this to my Warrior the bike had to be cranked and running. I'm assuming the FJR does NOT since the directions don't say to crank the bike.

Has anyone else run into this???

Thanks...

 
I can tell you that my 07 A model had the new ECU installed and since then I accomplished the BJM. Everything worked exactly as the posted instructions said it would. Maybe the wire didn't get properly seated when you moved it?

I adjusted +7 and noticed a minor difference in low speed leanness (is that a word?). Since there's a group buy going on right now for a PC III for only $269 delivered, I'm going to over-ride the BJM anyway and do it right.

 
I have an 06 and had the BJM done for awhile now. And as stated it does make a small difference. Just recieved my PC III from the group buy yesterday and undid the BJM back to stock. There is no comparison between the two. I've only tried one map so far and the smoothness is uncanny (also modified the stock throttle tube to reflect the G2). Totally worth the money as the lean surging has been my only complaint about the bike.

 
I have an 06 and had the BJM done for awhile now. And as stated it does make a small difference. Just recieved my PC III from the group buy yesterday and undid the BJM back to stock. There is no comparison between the two. I've only tried one map so far and the smoothness is uncanny (also modified the stock throttle tube to reflect the G2). Totally worth the money as the lean surging has been my only complaint about the bike.
Can I get a Hallelujah!

 
I'm the author of the BJM article you followed. I did it on my '07 FRJ after the new ECU was installed, so I can attest to the fact that it works. If you didn't get the wire swap correct, or if the wire was not seated properly in the holder, the CO adjustment will not work.

The PCIII is a great addition, but for those who don't want to spend the money, the BJM and CO adjustment are definitely worth doing. These foour mods have greatly improved throttle response on my bike:

1. Balance the throttle bodies.

2. Take the slack out of the throttle cables.

3. Unwind the throttle return spring one turn.

4. Do the BJM and adjust the CO on each cylinder +7.

Jon

 
the BJM and CO adjustment are definitely worth doing.
I disagree.

It's still just guessing - making an across the board change to something you don't even know where the baseline is.
The baseline is the factory setting which admittedly is lean for EPA reasons. There was a complete article either here or FJRTech.com on the BJM and CO mod. A fella did it and then used an exhaust gas analyzer to check the results of the mod. It showed a slightly richer mixture, though not significantly so. With the mod the abrupt throttle response is gone. I might try tinkering with the adjustment (maybe +6 or +5), but so far I'm pleased with the result.

 
the BJM and CO adjustment are definitely worth doing.
I disagree.

It's still just guessing - making an across the board change to something you don't even know where the baseline is.
The baseline is the factory setting which admittedly is lean for EPA reasons. There was a complete article either here or FJRTech.com on the BJM and CO mod. A fella did it and then used an exhaust gas analyzer to check the results of the mod. It showed a slightly richer mixture, though not significantly so. With the mod the abrupt throttle response is gone. I might try tinkering with the adjustment (maybe +6 or +5), but so far I'm pleased with the result.
That's not really a baseline, it's just a setting that the factory engineers found works (to be at or below the emission requirements) for the mass production of the motorcycle. This way they can have the ECUs all set the same for a given production run. I think you would find that if you tested the CO levels at each pipe, they would be different. The proper way to relieve the surge is to "balance" each pipe to one another. You would probably see a difference (maybe not great but a difference still) between the final four settings. The %CO would then be the same for each pipe and now you can raise the % (I think this richens the mix but not sure). You may even meet the emission standards (maybe not).

I would think the Factory doesn't spend the time to do this on the production line because of cost. They know the most efficient way to produce and meet the required standards.

 
Bob,

I agree, but the average FJR owner does not have access to the test equipment needed to get the readings and make the settings you talk about. While your idea is the best, I think the BJM and CO adjustments are adequate for most riders. Seat of the pants adjustments are OK. I've done the mod on my bike and seen the results, including gas mileage. Until I can afford an exhaust gas analyzer, I go with the mods.

 
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the BJM and CO adjustment are definitely worth doing.
I disagree.

It's still just guessing - making an across the board change to something you don't even know where the baseline is.
I might try tinkering with the adjustment (maybe +6 or +5), but so far I'm pleased with the result.
When I did the BJM (after I seated the wire properly) I raised the values by 5 instead of 7. I wanted to see if it would smooth out some but still keep a high MPG. I was avg a bit over 51MPG (highway) at 80MPH with stock ECU settings. I'm in the middle of a 600 mile trip with the new ecu setting and on the way down I AVG 46.5MPG (highway) at 85MPH. Stopped for fuel and slowed down to 75MPH and brned about 1/4 tank before stopping for the night and AVG alittle over 48MPG.

I know these tests are dynamic and many factors affect it but this is what I got out of it. I did notice the bike smoothed out alittle (might smooth out more at +7) Gas milage dropped alittle not real significant though.

 
I have an 08 & after doing the BJM, I found out the factory settings were 10 for each cylinder. Is there anything different between the 08 engines and older models that my 08 would have this setting, rather than the "normal" settings (5,18,18,21...I think) in other models?

Also, any idea why the settings differ per cylinder vs being the same like mine? If I decide to add +7 to my bike...any recommendations on whether I go with 17 across the board, or jump right to the 12,25,25,28 settings other folks are using?

Someone told me that richer settings could cause excessive heat in certain cylinders...and may void my warranty if I have any future issues caused by my modification of the fuel mixture.

So......I'm not sure what to do...

Any thoughts?

 
I have an 06 and had the BJM done for awhile now. And as stated it does make a small difference. Just recieved my PC III from the group buy yesterday and undid the BJM back to stock. There is no comparison between the two. I've only tried one map so far and the smoothness is uncanny (also modified the stock throttle tube to reflect the G2). Totally worth the money as the lean surging has been my only complaint about the bike.
Can I get a Hallelujah!
Hallelujah!

 
Someone told me that richer settings could cause excessive heat in certain cylinders...and may void my warranty if I have any future issues caused by my modification of the fuel mixture.
A leaner mixture causes more heat in a cylinder, thats why you can burn pistons/valves when you run lean. Running richer will normally run cooler, to a point, You just waste gas, get alot of carbon buildup, and loose performance when you go to rich.

 
Hallelujah, brother!! :yahoo:

So now let me spew forth my weak understanding of the whole situation. Feel free to flame away. You can't bother me as today is the first (of many) Fridays of the month. I'm officially off from work from now 'till July 21st! Vacation! Let me say Hallelujah!!

These two "fixes" are very different, and as such will produce different results.



Differences:

BJM & diddling of the CO settings:

Single setting that primarily effects idle speed mixture with diminishing effect as throttle is opened and rpms increased.

O2 sensor is still FULLY enabled (good or bad depending on viewpoint).

PCIII (non Cali Compliant)

Full throttle position vs rpm map which *can be optimized per installation.

O2 sensor is FULLY disabled (good or bad depending on viewpoint).

The "Problems"

The two biggest complaints with the FJR stock tuning that makes people want to venture down either of these two paths are that:

1) the off to on throttle transitions can be somewhat abrupt on the stock bikes, making the bikes feel less-than-smooth, and

2) like many modern motorcycles, in stock trim the bikes have a tendency to "lean surge" at lower cruising speeds (especially in the 35mph - 55mph zone).

Why these problems happen:

1) In order to achieve the best possible emissions and fuel economy, the stock fuel map is intentionally set on the lean side of optimum. This is especially so under trailing throttle conditions (where the designers literally cut-off all fuel), such as what one might encounter while entering a corner a tad too hot. The natural and prudent reaction is to chop the throttle, perhaps even using some brakes, before fully entering the corner. With the stock fuel map this results in the engine turning and pumping air, but essentially not "running" due to the absence of fuel from the injectors. After scrubbing the appropriate amount of speed off, any attempt to add throttle back in result in jerkiness as the engine literally comes back to life.

2) Designers want their engines to idle with minimal exhaust emissions. Minimum emissions can be achieved by lean fueling (leaner than optimum for maximum power conversion) along with catalytic converters in the exhaust stream. However lean fuel conditions (off idle) tend to produce a phenomenon known as lean surging. This is the objectionable feeling of "hunting" as the engine slightly increases and decreases in power under a steady throttle application. Lean surging is common on many engines, even those with carburettors, since the beginning of exhaust emissions concerns. The only cure for lean surging is adding the appropriate amount of (more) fuel to richen the mixture.

Dissenting opinions are welcome. We can talk about how these "fixes" work next.

 
Fred,

I agree with you completely except that I thought the CO settings were across the board - idle and full running. The effect I've seen on my bike is smoother acceleration and deceleration as a result of the richer fuel mixture. These obviously occur off idle. Outside of that, your analysis is spot-on as far as I'm concerned.

Jon

 
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