Rear Brake has no effect on 08 GenII

[carlson_mn]

Haven't even read past page one but I'll go on record to the OP that there is NO need to change DOT4 brake fluid annually if you don't track your bike or car and bring it up to boiling temps. Go to any well known mechanic and ask them if you need to change your street driven FJR's DOT4 annually and he'll laugh at you.

 

[Fred W]

Go to any well known mechanic and ask them if you need to change your street driven FJR's DOT4 annually and he'll laugh at you.

Then ask him if he'll pay for any repairs to the system that occur from not changing it.

Most mechanics (even the good ones) are pragmatists, not enthusiasts. Most people (including mechanics) consider a vehicle as a disposable commodity. It's all used up when it hits XX number of years or miles. Will the brake components last the "life of the car" without any maintenance? That depends on what you consider that lifespan to be.

Around here it is mostly the years of use in the weather that consumes them the most, and a 10 year old car is considered old. If you have a car (or motorcycle) that you want to last 15, 20 or 30 years then it is a good idea to take care of things like flushing the brake fluid now and then.

I would not (do not) change it every year either. Every 2 or 3 is more like it. But it is a good idea to do it once in a while. Yes, even on cars and bikes you won't be putting on the track or driving down the Mt Washington auto road, if you care about them lasting a long time.

 

[carlson_mn]

Whoever said anything about not changing it fred?

Thanks for saying the same thing I did using 10x the words as usual.

 

[Fred W]

Oh, sorry. I guess that I misunderstood your intent then. If I did then maybe others would have too.

Besides, I had a lot of extra words in my head I just needed to use up before they went stale.

 

[rbentnail]

Haven't even read past page one but I'll go on record to the OP that there is NO need to change DOT4 brake fluid annually if you don't track your bike or car and bring it up to boiling temps. Go to any well known mechanic and ask them if you need to change your street driven FJR's DOT4 annually and he'll laugh at you.

MHO- need to change it annually? No, prolly not. But I do know that my normal riding for one year (avg 12k for 6 yrs) produces darker-than-new fluid both front and rear. I also know that 2 yrs for me is too long- bits of grit begin to collect in the fluid reservoirs and the fluid is really dark, almost rust colored.

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I am one who prolly overworks his brakes several times per year in North Carlina's mountains. I have been known to ride 24 miles, stop and wait long enough to have a smoke and 1/2 a bottle of Nestea waiting for the others to catch up. And I replace the knobs on my foot pegs at least once per year just so I don't damage the pegs themselves.

IMHO your bike, your choice, do what's sensible for you and ignore the blanket statements espousing one extreme or the other. We all know when it comes to maintenance you spins your wheels and takes your chances. But let's face it, replacing brake (and clutch) fluid annually isn't one of our maintenance items that's gonna devour a day, deplete the wallet, or cause any harm whatsoever from being done "too often".

Just my $0.02 usd.

 

[carlson_mn]

 

[Fred W]

Not sure how cornering fast causes your brake fluid to get dark or dirty, but... whatever.

As you say, doing it more frequently than actually required is not going to hurt anything any more than changing your oil or coolant more often that actually needed will.

 

[carlson_mn]

I guess according to him he blasts as hard as he can on the straights and then has to hammer down on the brakes in order to not kill himself in the twisties, and then contemplates it all with a nestea later.

I kid, I kid... I better stop before I offend somebody...

I don't know nothin about no peg scrapin'

 

[ionbeam]

....I don't know nothin about no peg scrapin'

<Video goes here>

You have a very shy speedometer needle, it hardly every pops up to say hi :lol:

 

[Constant Mesh]

"I would suspect a very minor leak at the bleeder nipple or a banjo fitting. Can't be too bad or you would see brake fluid dripping somewhere."

Don't believe this would introduce air into the system except for possibly the linked front caliper.

For the front brakes operated by the hand lever the master cylinder reservoir is at the highest elevation in the system. If there's a small leak somewhere in this system air wouldn't come in, fluid would leak out via gravity from the master cylinder reservoir. Once the reservoir was depleted then air could enter.

The linked system is a bit different. Some portions of the hydraulic line feeding the front right caliper are at a higher elevation than the rear master cylinder reservoir. If you had a leak in the front linked caliper air could possibly be introduced since fluid wouldn't necessarily flow from the rear MC reservoir.

 

[rushes]

"I would suspect a very minor leak at the bleeder nipple or a banjo fitting. Can't be too bad or you would see brake fluid dripping somewhere."
Don't believe this would introduce air into the system except for possibly the linked front caliper.

For the front brakes operated by the hand lever the master cylinder reservoir is at the highest elevation in the system. If there's a small leak somewhere in this system air wouldn't come in, fluid would leak out via gravity from the master cylinder reservoir. Once the reservoir was depleted then air could enter.

The linked system is a bit different. Some portions of the hydraulic line feeding the front right caliper are at a higher elevation than the rear master cylinder reservoir. If you had a leak in the front linked caliper air could possibly be introduced since fluid wouldn't necessarily flow from the rear MC reservoir.

I wish there was another bleed point on the ABS metering block.

 

[RadioHowie]

"I would suspect a very minor leak at the bleeder nipple or a banjo fitting. Can't be too bad or you would see brake fluid dripping somewhere."
Don't believe this would introduce air into the system except for possibly the linked front caliper.

For the front brakes operated by the hand lever the master cylinder reservoir is at the highest elevation in the system. If there's a small leak somewhere in this system air wouldn't come in, fluid would leak out via gravity from the master cylinder reservoir. Once the reservoir was depleted then air could enter.

The linked system is a bit different. Some portions of the hydraulic line feeding the front right caliper are at a higher elevation than the rear master cylinder reservoir. If you had a leak in the front linked caliper air could possibly be introduced since fluid wouldn't necessarily flow from the rear MC reservoir.

I wish there was another bleed point on the ABS metering block.

Easy-peasy...just Google "Banjo Bleeder" and get your wallet out...

Let us know how it/they work, okay!?

 

[rushes]

"I would suspect a very minor leak at the bleeder nipple or a banjo fitting. Can't be too bad or you would see brake fluid dripping somewhere."
Don't believe this would introduce air into the system except for possibly the linked front caliper.

For the front brakes operated by the hand lever the master cylinder reservoir is at the highest elevation in the system. If there's a small leak somewhere in this system air wouldn't come in, fluid would leak out via gravity from the master cylinder reservoir. Once the reservoir was depleted then air could enter.

The linked system is a bit different. Some portions of the hydraulic line feeding the front right caliper are at a higher elevation than the rear master cylinder reservoir. If you had a leak in the front linked caliper air could possibly be introduced since fluid wouldn't necessarily flow from the rear MC reservoir.

I wish there was another bleed point on the ABS metering block.

Easy-peasy...just Google "Banjo Bleeder" and get your wallet out...

Let us know how it/they work, okay!?

edit again.

edited again..

Just loosen the uppermost fitting under pressure to burp. Too easy... lol

I'm a goober....

Thanks Howie!

 

[RadioHowie]

A little messy, your way...at least with a banjo bleeder you can direct the mess into a jar.

 

[rushes]

A little messy, your way...at least with a banjo bleeder you can direct the mess into a jar.

Just a little dribble....

A kleenex will do.....

 

[RadioHowie]

Just don't forget....one man's "little dribble" is another man's enlarged prostate.

That's why they invented "banjo bleeders"!

 

[woodcycl]

Lovin' this thread !!

Dealer installed new rear master cylinder and all is well. Only cost me close to $500 (in total) to have working rear brakes. Reasonable right?!

 

[dj bill]

did you have a yes warranty,why wasn't it covered.i got the same deal going on with my 08.speed bleeders are cool but didn't do crap.

 

[ionbeam]

I'm a bit taken aback by the total cost! The following is full Yamaha retail without looking for a discount.

3P6-W0042-00-00 REBUILD CYLINDER KIT, REAR MASTER ASSY $41.99

--or--

3P6-2583V-00-00 REAR MASTER CYLINDER ASSY. $145.99

3P6-FU4-350-00-00 ANAL LUBE, BILL DELIVERY SYSTEM $350.99

 

[ahchiu]

I guess when your dealer bleed the brakes they also bleed your wallet.