Reparing Your Ignition Switch

Advertise with us!
Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Any chance you (or anyone else) might know where the four-pin plug is located that separates the ignition switch lead from the main harness. I don't feel like spending $250.00 for the new switch; I thought I could bypass the whole biz with a couple of toggles and a relay. BTW, thanks for the detail in re-soldering the switch, if I see that is the problem I will go that route

Daytripper- FJR waiting patiently

Ok, I leave my house this morning Like most other days on the way to work, and ride down my street, turn on to the next one, and .......... NOTHING. Bike dies! "AWWW CRAP!

But the good thing was since I read this forum all the time, I kinda had a feeling what it was, The old ignition switch bad wire thing that seems to happen alot. So push push push all the way home, uphill most of the way, Thought I was going to die. But anyway, After testing a couple things I figured I would call some of the local Stealers to see who ,if anyone, had one in stock,..

No Luck, No one had one, But but but, I need my bike, I will figure something out, thought about the toggle switch fix, suggested by IonBeam in his PM to me this Morning, Thanks by the way Alan.

But I decided I was going to fix the existing ignition switch If I coud so I didn't have to deal with the whole re-keying issue, on the hardcases.

No-one has ever accused me of being overly patient ,If you know what I mean <img src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=" :rolleyes: " border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" /> so I did this today because I am not going to wait for a switch, or fight about warrantee coverage, My dad always told me when he fixed something that people said couldn't be fixed, He would wink at me and say "country boy can survive boy!" <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=" ;) " border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> So this was for both of us today, me and dad,.... Hug you dad's everyone next time you get the chance. You will miss them dearly when they are gone, I promise you! My dad taught me everything I know that's of any true importance in life, So I carry on.....as he would.

I snapped some pictures so others could benefit if needed.

So first I removed the triple clamp using the conventional methods, so I could see what I was dealing with.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture003-1.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

So it was obvious at this point that the brown wire had broken from it's solder connection and that was the problem. The next step I took was rather than drilling out the tamperproof bolts that held the switch to the triple clamp, I drilled the two that held the bottom cover of the switch on. This took a little doing, because of the dome like shape to them. I used my Dremmel with a small grinder to flatten the head out before I centerpunched and drilled them. Below is a picture of the switch with the bottom cover removed. Pay attention to the orientation of the switch body when you remove it, it needs to go back the same way.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture004-1.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Once I was inside the switch it doesn't look to be that bad. Just need to re-solder that pesky brown wire.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture005-1.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

I needed a way to hold the switchplate down so I could use the soldering iron, and hold the wire where I wanted it, so I just screwed it down to a 2x4 for the operation. an ordinary drywall screw did nicely. That shiny silver dot left of the screw head and right of the red wire is where it belongs. Those 2 at the top that are still bronze color are unused.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture007.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Nothing fancy in the soldering tools department here either

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture008.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

After I soldered it back together it was good and strong.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture009.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

At that point I snipped off the protective jacket that I cut durring the removal of the triple clamp. Turns out I didn't need to either. It just slid down the wires away from the switch when I tried. So I needed to wrap mine again to protect them before re-assembly. I just used a good wrap of black vinal electrical tape.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture011.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture012.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture013.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

to replace the tamper free bolts, I went to home depot and got som 4mmx16mm hex head screws, I needed to trim them down because they were to long,(out comes the dremmel again) <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=" :rolleyes: " border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" /> ,so I would have been ok if I had bought the 4mmx12mm screws.

The main reason to get the hex cap screws is that there isn't room for a socket in that opening where the screw goes. So the hex wrench was the only answer I could come up with.

after I got the guts put back together it wasn't a big deal.

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture018.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Almost done now..

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture019.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

........ANNNNND BRRROoooMMMMM IGNITION !!!!

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture020.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee22/ditchwitchguy/Picture021.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

I want to thank Ionbeam, Griff, And Keithaba who all responded to my calls for help this morning. Thanks guys. It's great to know that help is always around in one way shape or form!

 
Hi

I see from the original date that this is really old post; (but the problem is still with us) so I'm not too sure that this reply won't just disappear into the ether!!

Am I right in thinking that your bike was totally dead?

Mine most certainly is now; I've had months of occasionally poor starting (especially on a restart). To stay on the road (and put the problem off to another day) I followed a hint on a forum page to merely keep cranking it and lo and behold it fires (normally about 10 seconds before the battery expires!!).

This is now not an option; all I have is a green ignition light (same as you get with a kill switch) and total silence. All fuses are sound and I suspect the ignition block.

I'm going to do the switch cleaner trick and if that don't do it will follow your removal method, which appeals to me more than going in through the top as I've seen elsewhere.

This may be the faulty area, I may have even more than one fault. But it's a good enough place to start.

Whatever happens thanks for all the advice, I glean nearly all my info from the various FJR forums (mostly US one's it seems); I may have had this machine for over 8 years but it's only now that it is giving me problems: so I'm on a fast-track learning curve!

Stay upright!

 
When my problem occured (70,000 km ago) there was no power at all. My ignition was repaired as described above. Now at 163,000 km, it appears to be happening again. The bike is now put to bed for the winter so I plan to remove and recheck the connections.

Canadian FJR

 
Canadian FJR said:
Thanks for the link. I think it just may be dirty contacts this time but I will report back.

Canadian FJR
Click to expand...
Just to rehash the problem, I believe that the switch problem only affected 06-09 Gen II's. I would think that your switch is either corroded (dirty) or maybe just worn out.

As shown it isn't too difficult to disasemble and likely a good cleaning would do the trick. Used parts are likely available.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Previous solder repair looks good and no issues with the contacts, just a lot of dirt. 73,000 km of road grime. I'll give it a good cleaning and all should be well.

EDIT: all cleaned and ready to put back together. Just curious if I should put a little Moly on the mechanical arm inside the switch and a some dielectric grease on the contacts?

Canadian FJR

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Canadian FJR said:
Previous solder repair looks good and no issues with the contacts, just a lot of dirt. 73,000 km of road grime. I'll give it a good cleaning and all should be well.

EDIT: all cleaned and ready to put back together. Just curious if I should put a little Moly on the mechanical arm inside the switch and a some dielectric grease on the contacts?

Canadian FJR
Click to expand...
Pictures are always nice, without pictures it never happened :rolleyes:

Don

 
I would suggest only using a dry lube such as a silicon based lubricant or DuPont Teflon lubricant on the tumbler part of the lock. Graphite may not be the best thing to use should it get past the seal on the bottom of the tumbler assembly and into the electrical switch below.

Dielectric grease is intended to be put around the brass barrel of bulbs like 1157 so they don't freeze in the socket and become impossible to remove, the rubber boots of spark plugs and things like the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors but not the pins themselves. Dielectric grease provides a non conductive lubricant and sealer function for the barrels of bulbs and the rubber parts of connectors. Even though people pack connectors with it and pack things like the ignition switch with this high quality electrical insulator it was never intended to be used like that. Dielectric grease should never be used on the conductive parts of pins or sliding switches like the one in the ignition switch. The ignition switch fails because it does not conduct electricity as well as it should, why pack it with more electrical insulator? I will acknowledge those that SWEAR BY DIELECTRIC grease as a magical cure to all electrical problems. If it's electrical, it needs to have a 100psi injection of dielectric grease, it will fix any electrical problem in the world. Pack it in, cram it into every nook and cranny and you will never have an electrical problem ever again. Your choice, I'll just say no to packing the ignition switch with a high quality insulator.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Canadian FJR said:
Previous solder repair looks good and no issues with the contacts, just a lot of dirt. 73,000 km of road grime. I'll give it a good cleaning and all should be well.

EDIT: all cleaned and ready to put back together. Just curious if I should put a little Moly on the mechanical arm inside the switch and a some dielectric grease on the contacts?
Click to expand...
First, I agree with Professor ionbeams discourse on the over-use of silicone grease.

And I would also "Just say no" to the moly grease on the key switch mechanicals. If that goop migrates down into the electrical contacts it will surely cause problems. Clean 'em up good and then give it a light spritz with either silicone or some other dry(ing) lube.

Be extra careful not to get that dry lube on your newly cleaned electrical contacts.

 
I also agree with Professor ionbeams discourse on the over-use of silicone grease. However I see no problem in using it in moderation to protect contacts. if you are concerned that it will actually make any difference to the conductivity at a set of wiping contacts; then try this. Smear some dielectric grease on a piece of copper (copper pipe will do nicely), then measure the resistance where the grease is smeared and at another point without grease. I will be interested in your findings.

Incidentally, i would not use normal dielectric grease but I would use ACF-50 grease. I also use ACF-50 spray on every connector I can get to. YMMV

Don

 
Canadian FJR said:
Can anyone confirm if the "NEW" ignition switch - Part# 90891-30058-00 will fit my 2003.

Canadian FJR
Click to expand...
Not sure where you got those numbers from... I have a "5JW-82501-20-00" for my switch

And I checked a 2010 FJR and got a "3P6-82501-20-00"

Sometimes I have noticed that they change the third last and forth last digit when they have revised the part.

Example: The Cam chain tensioner was "5JW-12210-01-00" it is now "5JW-12210-10-00" for my bike.

I hope this helps? :rolleyes:

 
huron52 said:
Canadian FJR said:
Can anyone confirm if the "NEW" ignition switch - Part# 90891-30058-00 will fit my 2003.

Canadian FJR
Click to expand...
Not sure where you got those numbers from... I have a "5JW-82501-20-00" for my switch

And I checked a 2010 FJR and got a "3P6-82501-20-00"

Sometimes I have noticed that they change the third last and forth last digit when they have revised the part.

Example: The Cam chain tensioner was "5JW-12210-01-00" it is now "5JW-12210-10-00" for my bike.

I hope this helps? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Part# 90891-30058-00 is the "kit" from the 2nd Gen ignition recall. I believe that Scott is interested in using it because the kit is a whole lot cheaper than the ignition switch assembly itself.

So the question here is: Will a second gen ignition switch (with recall update) work on a 1st gen.

I know for certain that the part numbers do not align, even though they are functionally equivalent. But not whether they are plug and play swappable.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks plug and play to me. I'll confirm next week.

KGrHqJk4E4lmZ-m-cBOKfMNW1tw_12.jpg


Thanks for the replies.

Canadian FJR

 

Similar threads

A
2004 FJR with ignition wire bypass also burnt out the main fuse.
Replies
8
Views
790
mcatrophy
mcatrophy
A
USA Gen I Ignition Switch Failure
2 3
Replies
46
Views
2K
adyingbreed
A
MotoMike
Fault Code 12
2
Replies
39
Views
3K
MotoMike
MotoMike
RossKean
I rode my new FJR home from the dealer today - Clunk/rattle!/lower fairing issue?
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
Ignacio
Ignacio
Mossyrocks13k
Ignition Switch replacement bolts for security bolts
Replies
9
Views
1K
escapefjrtist
escapefjrtist

Latest posts

Top