resurface rotors

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palerider

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Hi,

About to change brake pads (EBC), and I'm wodering whether I should have the rotors resurfaced. I did a search, and there's little (or, actually, no) mention of this, so maybe it's just not necessary. They seem fine, no gouges or distortions. Is this a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it?"

 
If they do not have any flaws then I would just clean them when you put the new pads on and then ride.

 
Is this a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it?"
I'm sorry... what was the other case?
wink.png


 
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They're good unless they are:

1. Warped. (will look kinda like a frisbee - I have a rear frisbee sitting on my workbench.)

2. Worn under spec. (Happens rapidly when after-market pads are used. OEM pads not so much.)

If either is the case, they get replaced. And use new bolts. With loctite.

 
If the rotors are not grooved or warped you can take fine emery cloth and carefully wipe the surface to remove any glazing that occurs from normal use. As suggested in an earlier comment, use Yamaha original equipment pads unless you are a very aggressive rider. I have 32000 miles on my ride and have lots of pad remaining. If you smoothly downshift rather than breaking you will greatly reduce you tire and brake wear.

 
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...If you smoothly downshift rather than breaking you will greatly reduce you tire and brake wear.
If you smoothly downshift and use the front brake you will greatly reduce the REAR tire and rear brake wear. To go from some speed, say 60 to 0 on a bike that weighs 850 lbs with rider the amount of breaking force will be the same regardless if it is compression breaking, all rear, all front or some combination of these. Your word SMOOTH is correct, spread the breaking out over distance to reduce the peak forces on tires and breaks. Smooth, slow and gentle.

 
...If you smoothly downshift rather than breaking you will greatly reduce you tire and brake wear.
If you smoothly downshift and use the front brake you will greatly reduce the REAR tire and rear brake wear. To go from some speed, say 60 to 0 on a bike that weighs 850 lbs with rider the amount of breaking force will be the same regardless if it is compression breaking, all rear, all front or some combination of these. Your word SMOOTH is correct, spread the breaking out over distance to reduce the peak forces on tires and breaks. Smooth, slow and gentle.

Yup...But, if I wanted to ride it "slow, smooth and gentle," I would have bought an 'effin Prius!

 
...If you smoothly downshift rather than breaking you will greatly reduce you tire and brake wear.
If you smoothly downshift and use the front brake you will greatly reduce the REAR tire and rear brake wear. To go from some speed, say 60 to 0 on a bike that weighs 850 lbs with rider the amount of breaking force will be the same regardless if it is compression breaking, all rear, all front or some combination of these. Your word SMOOTH is correct, spread the breaking out over distance to reduce the peak forces on tires and breaks. Smooth, slow and gentle.

Yup...But, if I wanted to ride it "slow, smooth and gentle," I would have bought an 'effin Prius!
Fun trumps frugal, I chew up tires. I leave that kinder, gentler shit stuff to someone else. Heck, when you get both the 'beams on the FJR keeping up with the one-ups over the twisties the tires are over-matched and have no chance anyway. We ate a front tire at CFR this year, almost new going to and through the tread on both the sides on the way home.

 
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