SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
I am pretty sure it is. Several folks have had there SECOND swithch fail. And this has been of a recent nature.
For all you know you would be switching (he he) from a more rubust switch, to a less reliable one.
Reverse engineering an Ignition Switch Failure
- Thread starter Barabus
- Start date
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For all you know you would be switching (he he) from a more rubust switch, to a less reliable one.
El Toro
Innocent Bystander
Yup. Its a crap shoot. Can't say for sure which switch I ought to install in the Heli clamp with any certainty. Wish they'd do a recall and provide reliable parts. Man that list of switch failures is really really long. If all those folks would register a complaint with USDOT, it would be enough to trigger pressure for a recall. The switch failure is definitely a potential safety issue.
The BMW EWS ignition switch failures are supposedly being addressed by a recall in the EU. We're still waiting on BMW here, so Yamaha isn't the only delinquent manufacturer.
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big ears
Well-known member
I'm wondering if most bikes with ignation failure have risers on the bars and the cable holder and clip ties removed. Just a wondering.
I had been doing some thinking about the ignition switch failures on FJRs. This thread seems like a good place to post my "findings".
I think it is clear that there are (at least) two failure modes of our ignition switches.
Failure Mode 1 are those that fail due to poor contact (due to dirt, grime, etc) within the switches. This failure mode seems to be the less frequent one and spans all models, both generations. It may be precipitated by injection of various lubricants into the tumbler mechanism, which may run down and contaminate the electrical switch contacts. This is failure mode described earlier in this thread by Barabus.
Failure mode 2 are the ones where one of the 2 large wires (red or brown) comes unsoldered inside the switch. This failure mode seems to be primarily limited to 2nd generation FJRs. This is the failure mode documented nicely here by DailyCommuter.
This failure mode seems to be the more epidemic one. It appears to be related to some sort of manufacturing problem in the wire attachment compounded by the design of having the majority of the bikes electric current flowing through the switches contacts.
The part numbers for the FJR ignition switches have varied twice during the FJR run.
The '03's have a switch p/n 5JW-82501-10-00
The '04's and '05's have p/n 5JW-82501-20-00
The '06's and '07's have p/n 5PS-82501-10-00
Yamaha doesn't have online fiche for '08s up for some reason.
The fact that the first three digits change is likely due to the generation change. But the change from -10 to -20 and then back to -10 makes me think that these parts are not exactly the same, or at least not procured from the switch manufacturer in the same lots. This may help explain why the melting solder syndrome seems limited to the 2nd gens.
I think it is clear that there are (at least) two failure modes of our ignition switches.
Failure Mode 1 are those that fail due to poor contact (due to dirt, grime, etc) within the switches. This failure mode seems to be the less frequent one and spans all models, both generations. It may be precipitated by injection of various lubricants into the tumbler mechanism, which may run down and contaminate the electrical switch contacts. This is failure mode described earlier in this thread by Barabus.
Failure mode 2 are the ones where one of the 2 large wires (red or brown) comes unsoldered inside the switch. This failure mode seems to be primarily limited to 2nd generation FJRs. This is the failure mode documented nicely here by DailyCommuter.
This failure mode seems to be the more epidemic one. It appears to be related to some sort of manufacturing problem in the wire attachment compounded by the design of having the majority of the bikes electric current flowing through the switches contacts.
The part numbers for the FJR ignition switches have varied twice during the FJR run.
The '03's have a switch p/n 5JW-82501-10-00
The '04's and '05's have p/n 5JW-82501-20-00
The '06's and '07's have p/n 5PS-82501-10-00
Yamaha doesn't have online fiche for '08s up for some reason.
The fact that the first three digits change is likely due to the generation change. But the change from -10 to -20 and then back to -10 makes me think that these parts are not exactly the same, or at least not procured from the switch manufacturer in the same lots. This may help explain why the melting solder syndrome seems limited to the 2nd gens.
fjrboomer
Well-known member
I talked to the Parts and Service Managers at my dealer today. I had posed the questions as to whether this same switch is used on other models of Yamahas. The Parts Mgr said the same basic switch is used in all Yamahas since 2005. It would be of interest to see if other Yamaha riders are experiencing the same problem or if it just unique to our rides. If others are having the same problem there might be more pressure on Yamaha to address it. My Service Mgr is going to talk to the District Rep about this problem and see what he says as to his knowledge of the problem. They say their dealership has had not complaints on any bikes regarding the ignition failures. I will post the result from the Dist. Rep when I hear it.
The Ronayers website has a reverse PN lookup (where used): https://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/WhereUsed .
Assuming this covers all makes/models/years, the Gen I (04-05) and Gen II (06-07) PN's Fred has listed are only used on FJR's...did show up on other motorcycle models, ATV's, etc.
Anybody have an idea on how long NHSTA takes on investigations?...granted some are more complicated than others. I was looking today and it was back on August 8th when the ODI opened a file for this issue.
Assuming this covers all makes/models/years, the Gen I (04-05) and Gen II (06-07) PN's Fred has listed are only used on FJR's...did show up on other motorcycle models, ATV's, etc.
Anybody have an idea on how long NHSTA takes on investigations?...granted some are more complicated than others. I was looking today and it was back on August 8th when the ODI opened a file for this issue.
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The switch itself is quite likely used on other models with different harnesses soldered (welded) on and therefore getting different part numbers. Since the solder joint problem seems to be a process problem rather than a material problem, it very well may be limited to the part number for the 2nd gen FJR or even some subset (batch) of them.
TILAM
Well-known member
OK I seem to have the dirty conbtact type of failure. I have been having some issues all summer but today it became a problem. Up till now I have been able to move the switch to a position and get contact. Today I couldn't get the contact to stay on. Needles would swing then when I let go of the key, nothing. Managed to bungie the key to hold contact till I got home.
So is the "drain hole" accessible without disassembly? I'd like to flush with an appropriate contact cleaner if I can to see if that helps. I will remove the triple clamp if necesary but would obviuosly prefer a quicker, easy solution.
So is the "drain hole" accessible without disassembly? I'd like to flush with an appropriate contact cleaner if I can to see if that helps. I will remove the triple clamp if necesary but would obviuosly prefer a quicker, easy solution.
