I can't say I was lucky enough to have a code I could read when mine shut down, but I did find something out when mine wouldn't start nor shift out of gear and I had to put it on a trailer so I could get it to a shop for warranty work. The very shifter actuator the others are speaking of can be moved by hand to neutral if need be. I found if I took the actuator and clicked it down all of the way by hand until it stopped, this was neutral. I was then able to push the bike up the ramps and get it on the trailer, if I didn't get the bike into the neutral position as you have already found out, there was no way this was going to happen.
The weirdest thing about my problem was the heated handgrip wiring on the right hand side (throttle side) got all twisted up inside of the throttle housing and eventually shorted out (according to the tech that worked on the bike). I always had a problem with the throttle not returning to the zero or off position when I released it, I suppose this is why it wouldn't. But when the wire finally hit a ground it blew the signaling fuse, and when that happened the bike wouldn't shift and wouldn't re-start after it was shut down.
I will say this about moving the actuator by hand though. If this signaling fuse is blown and the bike won't shift, even if the bike is running or you finally get the bike running, DO NOT MOVE THE ACTUATOR! I have been told this will launch the bike forward and may cause INJURY to you, OR DAMAGE to the bike. Most think this bike is a automatic, it's not! The clutch is really controlled by a computer, so if you by-pass the safety design of the computer and force the transmission into gear while there is either no fuse in the signaling fuse socket or that fuse is blown, the bike will definately launch forward if the bike is running. So never use the actuator manually unless your bike is not running and the ignition key is turned off, and you need to move it safely to the side of the road or put it on a trailer.