(Split) Off-topic about maintenance

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ionbeam

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Thank you. Now I have find something else to take apart this Winter.
Check your cam chain tensioner, if it doesn't have a paint dot, change it. Do a valve check at the same time if it is anyplace near due, you should will already have the timing cover off when you change the CCT. You really need to keep tension on the cam chain when the CCT is removed. Read up about accessing the inaccessible CCT screw.

Check the VIN with a Yamaha service department, if the TPS hasn't been changed, do it.

Lube the clutch pivot on the handlebar. If there are a lot of miles on the bike the bronze bushing may need replacing.

Clean and lube the shift pivot behind the left foot peg. This is an important but often overlooked maintenance item.

Clean and lube the brake pedal pivot. Consider drilling and tapping the pedal for a zerk fitting because the brake pedal is an ongoing maintenance item.

Read about testing the ABS system using the Test Coupler following the directions posted here in the Forum, then test your ABS system. The side benefit is that you will move brake fluid through the metering block and get fresh fluid moved through the spools.

Change the brake fluid.

Still looking for something to do?

Try installing a true cruise control like Murphs Kit or Mc Cruise, you will wonder how you got by without this feature.

If you don't have heated grips, now would be the time to install something like Oxford grips, they work great.

Check out V-Strom hand guards to keep the wind off, they work great with the heated grips.

Is it spring yet?
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THANK YOU.

Very helpful.

My ABS was not working until I ran this cycle several times. The challenge was keeping the voltage high enough for the test to work. The front works now (tested on dirt) but the rear still does not. There is only a very timid pulse from the rear during the test and nothing detectable during on-dirt actual.

Norm

 
If you look around here you'll find several other reports of 1st Gen ABS bikes with the same symptom. It has been reported that the rear spool valves in the hydraulic block assembly become stuck in the "normal" position and will not divert pressure from the calipers when the motor runs. As of now, nobody has ever reported being able to resuscitate a hydraulic block assembly when it gets into this state. The only solution has been either replace the whole block ($$$) or live with it as is.

 
...Lube the clutch pivot on the handlebar. If there are a lot of miles on the bike the bronze bushing may need replacing..

where can I find that bronze bushing?

my clutch need that part to be replaced, I don't want to change the entire lever..

 
The parts list diagram isn't clear but I believe you need P/N 3GM-26455-00-00 -- BUSH. Anybody in your area that carries Yamaha parts should be able to get this for you.

 
The parts list diagram isn't clear but I believe you need P/N 3GM-26455-00-00 -- BUSH. Anybody in your area that carries Yamaha parts should be able to get this for you.
VERY common Yamaha part - I think the same part number is used in the clutch lever of almost all Yamaha motorcycles (with hydraulic clutch) in recent memory. (Excepting GenII AE)

 
This is a picture from another Forumite that didn't do the maintenance. The bushing in the lower right part of the picture should be shiny bronze that is a perfect cylinder with perfectly round holes.

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But, we drift from the OP's topic for this thread.

 
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Good write up sir, Most I have done & as I think about it one I have neglected.

I remember looking at the bushing last winter thinking I should replace it. At 96,000 miles it's due.

Would it be a copy right infringement to cut, past and hang on the wall? I'm getting old and seem to need more reminders!
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