strange electrical buzzing when running

[R1nstang]

hey guys,

im more of a lurker than a poster since im new to the FJR, not new to yamaha though. if you have 09-14 R1 questions then ask me anything haha. But i bought the 2007 FJR used with 69K miles on it. Runs great, but theres a few things i have questions about that i've asked on the FJR enthusiasts page on facebook but the ones trying to help me hadn't a clue what it could be, so i figured not everyone has signed with the devil and gone to facebook yet so ill post on the good ol forums.

question 1. When the bike is idling there is a distinct "electrical" buzz noise coming from under the tank area, maybe the front, i took a video of it and will attach it here

i havent torn into the bike too far, but i have removed the AIS system and blocked everything off with vaccum caps. I went to yamaha and they claim all recalls have been done on the bike, ignition issue, and the spiders, but well, just cause their system says it was done doesn't mean everything was done proper. The buzzing doesn't seem to affect anything at all. I keep the bike on a charger when im not riding it, so i cant say if the battery is getting drained. IF i turn the key ON but dont start the bike, there is no buzz, the second i start the bike the buzz shows up though.

any ideas?

2nd question, when i let the bike warm up at idle it goes smooth on start up and for about a minute, then it just randomly stumbles, like its gasping for gas or breath, if i give it throttle it will die, but if i just leave it alone and give it another minute its like an asthmatic that just took a deep breath off an inhaler and it purrs like a kitten again. It was mentioned to me awhile ago to test the temp sensor during idle, which i tried, but guess what, stupid me i was testing the connector, stupid me i didn't realize the temp sensor was located inside the pipe haha..i swear it was just a brain fart, but regardless once i unplugged the connector to the sensor the check engine light would come on, obviously, and the bike would die very soon after, so i couldnt really test it while it was having its asthma attack.

3. last question. there is a weird rattle sound coming from the front end when going over bumps. I plan to flush the forks and instal new seals tomorrow if all goes according to plan. cause one fork was leaking badly when i bought it, used Sealmate and it worked, but the rattle kinda sounds like a loose piece of metal, like maybe one fork is almost empty of fluid and shits just boucning around in there haha. is there any other places on the front end that is known to cause a distinct rattle? any advice on the fork rebuild? I've done it before on my R1 USD forks, after watching the videos normal forks seem to be a piece of cake.

anyways thanks for the help. if the link to the video doesnt work, ill put it in a separate post on this thread

 

[mcatrophy]

question 1. When the bike is idling there is a distinct "electrical" buzz noise coming from under the tank area, maybe the front, i took a video of it and will attach it here

I've not heard of forks making noises, although the bushes are known to wear. Most likely to be the head bearings needing adjustment, or possibly the brake rotor(s) rattling. They are "floating", and can rattle over bumps. Easy test, sit facing the side of the front wheel, grasp the brake rotor with two hands (like a steering wheel), now try to jerk/turn the rotor clockwise then counter-clockwise, see if you can hear that noise. (Obviously repeat for the other side.) I've had this noticeably on two of my three FJRs. You can also sometimes hear this if you hold the front brake on, then try to push the bike forwards and backwards with your feet, but you (well, I) can't tell the difference between head bearing and rotor moving. There is nothing wrong with a floating rotor that clunks/rattles over bumps.

Of course, it could be the window mechanism or similar rattling (I find it very difficult to locate the source of such noises when riding).

 

[Cyclepath]

Hey FNG, in terms of your problem number 3, I would also suggest having a quick look at how firmly mounted your front fender is on the forks.

On my Gen 1, not long after buying it (I became 3rd owner), I noticed a mechanical rattling whenever I went over bumps/came up into my driveway etc.

Turned out that the plaster fender wasn't fastened tightly - for every fender bolt there is a small metal bushing each bolt passes through, and the plastic fender was actually slowly breaking away around each of those bushing holes.

Ended up using some JB Weld (somewhat colour-matched to my old Cerulean Blue factory paint) and a set of tarp grommets to fabricate a set of new reinforcements on those plastic fender bushing holes.

That was 4 years ago, and they are still holding nicely. Never did use any touch up paint - too small to really notice.

 

[hppants]

Welcome to the club. Congrats on your new (to you) bike.

Regarding question 1: Are you sure you not hearing the fuel pump running normally?

Regarding question 2: Did this problem start after you removed the PAIR system? Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak? Also agree with MCA - check idle speed adjustment.

Regarding question 3: Agree with MCA, check and re-torque your steering head bearings. Check your wheel bearings. Re-assemble your front axle, taking care to torque down all fasteners to spec. There is nothing in your fork that floats in oil during normal operation. So if there is a rattle from within the fork, something is broken. Be sure to change your bushings with the seals, or the new seals will leak very soon. There is a nice pictorial on how to replace the bushings - what to use as a bushing driver, etc.

 

[RossKean]

Overall, I agree with what mcatrophy has suggested. I couldn't hear what was going on in the video but you might also check the condition of your plug wires and caps. (could relate to idling issue as well). My high frequency hearing is awful - maybe it is fuel pump as hppants suggests. Another thing for noise in that area - a number of years ago, a fair number of people decided that it would be a good idea to modify the air intake by chopping off the "horn". Arguably, this MAY have yielded a couple of HP when combined with some other modifications but there was some increased intake noise. You could be hearing this.

The clunk over bumps is hard to place but my first guess would be the steering head torque. Put it on the center stand and put a jack under the headers to lever the fornt wheel off the ground. Grab the front wheel and push-pull to see if you get clunking to indicate loose steering head. After 69000 miles, the forks need service. Seals and (3) inner bushings.

What temperature sensor are you talking about "inside the pipe"? The O2 sensor is the only one I know.

 

[R1nstang]

Wow

Thanks everyone for all the detailed responses. Much appriciated for all the help.

How would i adjust the idle speed on the bike? I haven't spotted any kind of adjuster like an old carbed bike would have, or would it be something i would need to get into diagnostics mode to do?

I will do as yall suggested and check the rotors for play and the steering head bearing, im getting a late start today this time change threw my body for a loop and im just now getting moving around the house. they really need to stop this time change crap haha

I planned on redoing the forks today i've already got the seals and oil, but from what ive seen on all the videos they reused the bushings and such, so i guess i will wait on the rebuild and order all the bushings. do any of yall know if they come in a "kit" like the fork seals, or do i need to order all 6 bushings individually?

Cyclepath The front fender isnt loose ffrom what i noticed last week when i was waxing everything, but ill give the bolts and such an extra look at today too (also whats FNG mean? haha)

HPPants, yeah im fairly certain it isnt the fuel pump running thats causing the buzzing noise. I hear it do its quick priming and then go silent, but theres always the possibility so ill verify that to when i lift the tank and such thanks.

Rosskeen, ill have to look up about the horn mod, as i cant say ive heard about it. kind sounds similar to what people do with the 09 r1 air box, the US model had a smaller "funnel" to it, while everyone else it was wide open so people including me, would trim away the funnel part, but it never caused an louder intake noise.

and sorry the temp sensor im talking about it in the coolant pipe under the tank. i cant figure out how to attach a pic but heres a link to the pipe im talking about https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/yamaha-fjr-1300-cylinder-head-coolant-pipe-/111723463402

and as for the idle issue, its been like that since i bought it. And it doesnt happen everytime, only about 90% of the time. but i will go thru and double check none of the caps are loose or anything.

again thanks for everyones replies on this, and as mentioned ill be getting to the garage soon and try to do everything suggested and can hopefully find all the issues

 

[RossKean]

For the definitive Gen II fork refurb thread

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/140923-fork-seal-bushing-replacement/?hl=+bushing++driver

You need to order the bushings separately. You need a special tool to set the middle bushing (see thread, above)

FNG - F***ing New Guy

The "horn" is at the airbox intake - obvious when you take it apart to change the air filter.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/101386-the-stock-air-box-funnel-reduction-surgeryby-ww/?hl=+airbox ++modification

You should be able to see the idle adjustment screw on the right side of the bike - does not appear in the owner's manual. You should be able to find it with a search on the forum.

Look at Post #8 here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/148027-idle-adjustment-range/?hl=++idle+++speed+++screw&do=findComment&comment=996716

Edit - I don't think that the temperature sensor on the coolant pipe has anything to do with fueling. I believe it just goes to the temperature display. Idle fuel enrichment when the bike is cold is accomplished by the "wax motor" which is part of the throttle body assembly. As it heats up, the fuel mixture returns to "normal". Coolant flow diversion through the radiator is accomplished by the thermostat.

 

[R1nstang]

Thanks Ross

I kinda figured that's what it meant haha but wanted to verify.

Just got back from playing around with it and ended up finding the idle adjustment screw just by accident haha. It would only let me adjust it to around 1000-1100 hard to tell the exact number. If I turned it anymore then that then it just sprang back to the original position, may be kinked somewhere I'll keep fiddling with it.

I also searched out the buzzing noise a little closer and sure enough it is located near the bottom of the tank, right by the fuel pump location so Im not sure if that's a sign it's about to go bad or not. Bike ran strong as hell yesterday with no fueling issues so hard to tell but I'll keep an eye on it.

That makes sense about the temp sensor cause when I did disconnect it the gauge for it went completely blank, but it also did cause the bike to die.

Winter decided to show up again over night. 40 degrees now. It was just 80 2 days ago and 70 yesterday. I need a heated garage haha.

Also I jacked up the front of the bike there is no play in either rotors, no clunking noises when I push/pull the front wheel to give a sign of a bad steering bearing, and verified all the hardware on the front fender is completely solid. Gonna take care of a few things in the house for now then try to head back out there and lift the tank, hell who knows maybe I left the ever disappearing 10mm socket or wrench under the tank long ago hahaha.

Thanks for the links I will read up on both of them. I'll order all the bushings and stuff before I tear into the forks and do everything all at once. Thanks again for all the help. I'll keep y'all posted on the progress