stripped drain bolt

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Malve

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After doing exactly what I could have avoided by reading more threads (or perhaps just using some common sense), I (like others before me) tried to tighten the bolt with a "dork wrench" to 31lbs and now it's just spinning loosely.

First question...Is it ever just the bolt and not the pan?

2nd... Even though the bolt is spinning loosely, I let the bike run for a few minutes and it wasn't leaking.

Is it safe to ride to the shop (six miles)?

Any other advice?

Thanks.

Admins. feel free to move to pointless never ending or anywhere else you see fit.

 
I wouldn't ride it the 6 miles to the shop. What if it just lets go and spills oil all over your rear tire. What if it lets go and your engine seizes? Nah, if I were in that situation I would be trailering it in. Just remember, six miles is a long way to go with no oil....

 
With a steel bolt and aluminum pan...the bolt wins every time.

Can't address the second question. Be very careful whatever you decide to do. Good luck on the fix.

--G

 
How loose is loose? Unless it's flopping around (which it isn't because you said it wasn't leaking), I don't think that bolt is going anywhere; I believe I would ride it to the dealer. This is just an opinion, you have to do what makes you feel secure.

 
Just a thought...

If you don't have access to a trailer and are not in a huge hurry...

Clean around the bolt as best you can and layer some silicone adhesive around it. That should keep it from completely dropping out or rattling loose until you make the six miles. But you'll have to give it 24 hours to set.

 
One more question please....

There was no crush washer or washer of any type on the drain bolt when I removed it.

This wouldn't have contributed to the cause of the stripped bolt?...would it have?

 
One more question please....
There was no crush washer or washer of any type on the drain bolt when I removed it.

This wouldn't have contributed to the cause of the stripped bolt?...would it have?

100% Yes.

 
As others do, I use the feel of the "crush" in the washer to determine a proper seal.

 
One more question please....
There was no crush washer or washer of any type on the drain bolt when I removed it.

This wouldn't have contributed to the cause of the stripped bolt?...would it have?
I would say no if you used a torque wrench. Torque is used to indicate the amount the bolt has stretched. I say indicate because it is not 100% accurate, I can't find the source, but IIRC torque wrenches are about 80% accurate, the armstrong method about 50%. The accuracy depends on the condition of the threads, lubrication, manufacturing tolerances, etc. However, at 31ft/lbs the washer would have been crushed a long time ago and you will be stretching the bolt just as if there was no washer there. I suppose you might get some extra (miniscule) amount of crush, but my guess is that washer was done 15ft/lbs or more ago.

 
I did that on my v-strom took out the drain bolt went to adance auto with the plug got a $2.99 self tapping and spun it in and has not leaked in 3 oil changes. my2cents

 
One more question please....
There was no crush washer or washer of any type on the drain bolt when I removed it.

This wouldn't have contributed to the cause of the stripped bolt?...would it have?
When I first pulled the drain plug, I didn't think there was a crush washer on it either, it was so flat and stuck to the bottom of the bolt head that I couldn't tell it was there. I grabbed the bottom of the bolt head w/ some pliers and it popped loose.

I did the same thing, got an oversized self-tapping bolt, good(or almost) as new... No leaks after 2K more miles.

 
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What he said above. The crush washer is crushed and may be stuck to the bolt head.

Take a real good look.

Personally I would either duct tape it in place or something and ride it in to the dealer,

or what he said above. New self tapping bolt if you can somewhat unscrew the old one and save some thread in the pan.

It's worth a shot, but it's your call.

Hint Hint to any new owners, No torquey drain bolty.

It is mentioned in the New Owner FAQs.

 
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I wasnt able to get my crush washer off ont he last oil chanhe...that little bugger is fused on there! Figure I will tackle that problem at 16k mile maintenance interval.

 
I went ahead and bought the copper washer for the oil pan and the final drive oil. I'm sure I came close to stripping it because the torque wrench was different than the other one I used and I just kept tightening it. I just said, this feels plenty tight enough now.

 
I wasnt able to get my crush washer off ont he last oil chanhe...that little bugger is fused on there! Figure I will tackle that problem at 16k mile maintenance interval.
Go with the copper washer alternative as described in the Bin o' Facts.

Works great and never needs to be replaced.

 
I wasnt able to get my crush washer off ont he last oil chanhe
All you need is to lay the bolt sideways and use a very thin straight edge screw driver to pry in-between.

Since (I am assuming) you re-used the crush washer, you haven't had any leakage?

Would it be okay to re-use a crush washer once? Anyone care to comment?

 
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