Throttle Body caps - Where can I get better caps

[Rider_FJR]

I'm looking to perform TBS Sync in couple of days and I'm looking to get new 4 rubber caps, which cover the valve.

What is everyone using, did you put back the original caps, or get something else?

 

[03HiYoSilver]

I'm looking to perform TBS Sync in couple of days and I'm looking to get new 4 rubber caps, which cover the valve.

What is everyone using, did you put back the original caps, or get something else?

I have used the Original ones from the very beginning. Just don't pinch them with Pliers or something.

IF you want others, you can get Vacuum Caps at AutoZone/ Advanced that should work.

 

[Rider_FJR]

Thanks for the info.

I will visit AutoZone tomorrow.

If I go with the AutoZone caps, would I still have to use the metal clip?

I'm looking to perform TBS Sync in couple of days and I'm looking to get new 4 rubber caps, which cover the valve.

What is everyone using, did you put back the original caps, or get something else?

I have used the Original ones from the very beginning. Just don't pinch them with Pliers or something.

IF you want others, you can get Vacuum Caps at AutoZone/ Advanced that should work.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

... would I still have to use the metal clip?

You don't have to, but it keeps the Caps from blowing/sliding off and offers a more secure connection.

 

[HotRodZilla]

I thought the AutoZone caps weren't sturdy enough for this and ended up leaking and causing issues. I'd swear I've seen that mentioned a lot. If I'm wrong though, that's an easy solution.

 

[UselessPickles]

Just install a vacuum-powered cruise control system and hook up hoses to all 4 of those synchronization ports. It's really easy to grab those hoses and pull them off without fear of dropping them and losing them in the engine's abyss:

I thought the AutoZone caps weren't sturdy enough for this and ended up leaking and causing issues. I'd swear I've seen that mentioned a lot. If I'm wrong though, that's an easy solution.

That was in reference to using the larger caps to block off the air induction ports (to remove the whole air induction system), which are right above the exhaust ports on the head of the engine. It probably gets significantly hotter there than it does at the throttle bodies.

The picture above has said rubber caps on the air induction ports. I have since installed the WynPro block-off plates after one of my caps split down the side.

 

[Rider_FJR]

WOW. $26.00 for 4 rubber caps and 4 clips from www.bikebandit.com

 

[SouthernCruizer]

I got the 6 pack from Auto Zone for like $5 or something...no clips, but none are needed. They are also longer than the OEM, makes them easier to remove.

 

[Rider_FJR]

Perfect. Thanks everyone for your information, I have ZutoZone few minutes from my house, I will pick them up in the morning. I will also ask the sales person if they sell those clips, it will not hurt to have them.

I got the 6 pack from Auto Zone for like $5 or something...no clips, but none are needed. They are also longer than the OEM, makes them easier to remove.

 

[ahchiu]

I got mine from Lowes in the specialty parts bin.

 

[Rider_FJR]

Were you able to find clips as well?

I got mine from Lowes in the specialty parts bin.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Thanks Pickles...You're right. Those caps were exactly what I was thinking of.

 

[ahchiu]

Were you able to find clips as well?

I got mine from Lowes in the specialty parts bin.

No, I did not use the clips, they fit pretty snug and I have to pull pretty good to get them off.

 

[bluesdog]

Were you able to find clips as well?

They're probably not really necessary, especially if the rubber caps are a tight fit, but it's possible to fabricate your own clips from 'springy' wire.

I've used the already curled pieces cut from spring safety pins

Clip 'em long enough to bend little loops in the ends, just like the OEM ones...

 

[Denver_FJR]

I thought the AutoZone caps weren't sturdy enough for this and ended up leaking and causing issues. I'd swear I've seen that mentioned a lot. If I'm wrong though, that's an easy solution.

Hear, hear! Not an issue of sturdiness for me but rather durability. I added short vacuum lines from the TBS port because those clips/caps are so freakin' hard to remove. The AutoZone caps I used to plug the vacuum lines were showing significant cracks and all-around rubber rot after only a year. I can't imagine that area of the bike is harsher then any car engine compartment. I can only conclude it's due to cheap rubber, and no one should ever settle for cheap rubber!

 

[Slardy]

I, too, had problems removing those rubber caps for TBS syncing. I finally just used 1&1/2 inches of vacuum hose, per port, with RTV sealant on the top end. The next time I am in there, I am going to replace the rubber vacuum hose with Silicon tubing.

 

[Powerman]

My auto parts store caps are 4 yrs old and look fine, Bob's have been replaced after a year or so?

 

[Patriot]

I ride 27k+ mi a year and have had to replace the toasted caps every year.

the WinPro plate covers are the bomb, though...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=116612&st=0&p=573459entry573459

some use brake caliper nipple covers which may be more robust and are easily obtainable

my mechanic took off the stock covers and purchased spacers that jammed the reeds closed, and replaced the plate

Vacuum Port Plugs

https://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/UNIVERSAL_USE_VACUUM_PORT_PLUG_P9711C693.cfm

 

[SkooterG]

I always have several of each fastener and other miscellaneous stuff on hand. Including the OEM rubber caps. Though I rarely have to replace them.