Throttle Body Sync FJR1300A 2016 Gen 4

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OhLuckyMan

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Hello fellow FJR owners,

I recently tagged this post to the end of another thread, and received no responses, so I am starting a new thread on the subject. I have received a lot of feed back from another source, but thought I'd post here as well. Knowledge is power.

I have just read many of the posts on this site, in my search for all the information I can get on how to do my first Throttle Body Synchronization. I am riding a 2016 Gen 4 FJR1300A.

I have a few questions, and they mostly are about the really nitty gritty little stuff that seems to be being left out. Here they are:

1. After raising the tank, to get at the throttle body nipples, I find that I cannot reach them all. Some are 5-6 inches below pipes and hoses on the surface of the motor, and very hard to reach. I'm pretty sure that I will have to remove the gas tank, then hook up the Carbtune Pro, and then hook the gas tank back up, to get at the 4 necessary hose hook up locations. Has that been your experience?

Brian at TwoWheelObsession does a very good video on how to do a TBS, but he is working on a Gen 3 2014 bike. I'm on Gen 4, and just don't see how I can do this without removing the tank to get at the necessary areas.

2. What tools are you using, that will assure that I can get the little ring clips and black caps off without losing them into the abyss of the motor. Any tool suggestions?

3. The TBS adjusting screws are just forward of the rear of the gas tank, and face toward the rear of the gas tank. There is probably no more than 4-6 inches of room between the rear end of the gas tank, and the two inside TBS adjustment screws. With the engine nice and hot, as required to do a TBS properly, and the gas tank overhanging the work area, I just can not see me getting in there with out removing the tank, and having it hooked up , but out of the way. Does that sound right?

I replaced the plugs while I was under the tank, yesterday. That was the very first time I have done a spark plug change. I found it a little tricky getting the ignition coils out of the wells they are plugged into, but followed TwoWheelObsessions instructions about twisting them around first, and then used a small pry bar (a cats paw) to gently break the seal. I am telling you this so you will understand that I am capable of working under there somewhat.

As an aside, I took photos of the TBS job as I was getting stuck, thinking they would illustrate the problem, but in fact they make it look easy , because I held the camera under the gas tank when taking the photos.

The bike is now running very well when hot, but sounds a bit weak on start up, like it might stall.

Thanks for reading, and any information would be most appreciated.

Ride Safe,

Cheers

 
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I have a 2018A, so:

1) You do not need to remove the tank. Use a 2x4 piece of wood about 18" long, raise the front of the tank and put the wood under the front to hold it up. It tucks nicely into the triple tree and the notch under the tank. I've done this a few times already and it works really well.

2) Don't worry about the ring clips. They are very weak and don't add much resistance. Just use some needle-nose pliers and gently work the cap off the nipple. Don't pull like an animal and rip the rubber, just gently wiggle and pull until it slides off.

3) Use a small screwdriver. It's not hard.

Regards,

Dan

 
Like dcumpian, I use a piece of wood to hold up the tank front.

(Click on image for larger view)



A piece of dowel in the end fits through one of the tank's front mounting holes, can't slip out.



 
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Okay, thanks for getting back to me guys.

I will have another look at it soon. Right now, I have put it back together after installing the new plugs, and that has got rid of the weak idle at start up. I may postpone the throttle body until the weather gets ugly, and the bike is off the road for winter.

dcumpian, how often do you do your throttle body?

Cheers

 
Okay, thanks for getting back to me guys. I will have another look at it soon. Right now, I have put it back together after installing the new plugs, and that has got rid of the weak idle at start up. I may postpone the throttle body until the weather gets ugly, and the bike is off the road for winter.

dcumpian, how often do you do your throttle body?

Cheers
Every other oil change. I know some do it every change, but I haven't found it necessary as of yet. I've got just over 16,000 miles on the bike.

Dan

 
I may be a slacker but... I just did my plugs and air filter @ 29k miles.

For sure brace the tank up so you can see to work...

Maybe remove the Exhaust PAIR plates/ hoses to see better... see https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/170834-jewelry-for-naomi-pair-removal/

Pulling the plug boots is stiff the first time... probably easier the next times.

Replace Air filter for instantly better breathing too.

My start up is smoother and faster, and shifting got smoother too (lubed the shift linkage ball socket).

I skipped the TB Sync for fear of difficulty, and maybe messing it up worse. If it ain't broke... YMMV
rolleyes.gif


 
Thanks for the further input guys.

I notice in the link to the photos of the guy removing the PAIR hoses, that he has propped up the back of his gas tank, not the front of the tank. I'm going to try to get to Harbor Freight tomorrow, to pick up some 12" needle nose pliers, and some picks. I may want to do the throttle body sync before I go away for 2 weeks, because the information will still be fresh in my mind.

Roger, I have replaced my air filter already. One thing I noticed is that there is a long tube that fits into the air filter. This tube causes most of the filtering to be done by that portion of the air filter that the tube does not reach into. You can see this by looking at where the air filter is dirty. That portion of the air filter where the tube does fit into, does not get very dirty at all. I simply turned my air filter around in the housing, and the bike continues to run just fine. My dealer wants $61 CDN for a new air filter! Ouch.

I'll update this thread when I have had another go at the TBS.

Cheers

 
Turn the filter around and blow it out with compressed air. Unless it is really crudded up, it should be fine. Filter lasts a long time unless you are in a very dusty area. I have never noticed any operational difference after changing the filter.

 
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