TIRES?? What tires are everyone running on their FJR?

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The only time I have done so is when I was experimenting with a car tire on the bike. First approximation was feel, but ended out playing with pressure and using an IR "laser" thermometer.

I think you might be on your own there. Can't say as I've ever seen a guide for those dabbling in the dark arts... <lol>

The TPMS was something I always meant to get, but never got around to it. My son gave me one for Father's Day, so the choice of sensors was his. It's nice, compact and very convenient -- I certainly check my pressures more often ;-) The battery lasts for weeks between recharging, the magnetic charge connector is strong enough to charge it while riding when it is time. Unfortunately, the long life is at the expense of screen illumination. It's clear enough at night, but the pressure is a bit hard to read in bright sun. The temp is impossible to read in bright sun, but as discussed earlier, it's irrelevant anyway. The only downsides:

1. It is recommended to replace rubber valve stems with metal ones due to the added weight of the sensor.
2. Adjusting the pressures requires a wrench to loosen the lock nut securing the sensor to the valve stem.

The alarm sound is audible when the bike is shut off, but don't have any illusion that it can be heard wearing a helmet riding down the road. Fortunately it also flashes the respective pressure display, but even that is unlikely to catch your eye in bright sun unless you deliberately look at it. And the initial display reflects the pressure it remembers from when you parked -- it doesn't update the pressure (or temp) until the bikes starts rolling -- maybe 50' after? So it's of limited use for a pre-ride check until you get in the habit of checking it after moving the bike. (NOTE: it updates immediately if the sensor detects an alarm condition -- rapid loss of pressure or pressure below the alarm threshold -- see below)

Ironically, the only time it ever went off was the other day when I started up the bike to roll it into the garage to mount the new tires. My first thought was "What's wrong with this thing -- pressure was fine yesterday morning when I parked it, does this mean the sensor battery is dead?". I dismounted the wheel, removed the sensor and checked the pressure just for the heck of it. The darn thing was right -- pressure was down to 19psi. A closer inspection revealed a nail through the tire; I must have picked it up on the way home. So while it works and did it's job, circumstances rendered the point moot. <lol> But next time I'll believe it.
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Seems to me to me that quite a large temperature rise would be needed to increase pressure that much. Grip would certainly improve but I would expect to the detriment of tire longevity.
I admit I have no experience dealing with pressures in this fashion. I usually do 40F and 42R (cold) and call it a day.
According to Wikipedia:

Cold Inflation Pressure - Link

View attachment 5358

A 10°C (18°F) temperature rise from 20 to 30°C raises the tire pressure by 1.5 psi (starting at 30 psi) or 1.9 psi starting at 40 psi.
They suggest a rule of thumb of 2% pressure increase for every 10 °F.

Do you use TPMS or an infrared temperature gun to assess tire temperature?
Such an adjustment to cold inflation pressure only applies to those situations where the bike/vehicle is stored in a different ambient temperature (for more than four hours) than the actual riding/operating temperature. If the bike is stored in a garage that is NOT climate controlled--then NO adjustment to cold-inflation pressure is needed. Right?
If you're really serious about op temp PSI, then Ross' guidelines are the ticket. If you're cruising along and handling and tread life are not a priority, then grab any stick gauge and test cold temps before kickstands up. My rule for all vehicles is 4 hours of stopped time to cool down enough after riding to be "cold".
Geez this is getting complicated. Now you know why I groaned when I saw another tire thread. LOL

Remove valve caps, check pressures, are they 41/42? No?... adjust pressures. Yes?... install valve caps, ride away happily.
Hey, whatever works for you is fine by me! I only got into this because Ross asked.

That said, it's not really that complicated. Check your pressures cold before the ride. Check your pressures warm at a fuel stop (where you are handy to an air compressor anyway). You only need a couple of datum points and only need to repeat if you change tire brands/model.

EG: if I'm riding single with light load on nice twisty motorcycle roads, I know I need XX front and YY rear cold. If I'm planning two up on the superslab with a heavy loadout, I know I need to set my starting pressures to AA/BB. And I know if I'm going to take nice twisty motorcycle roads two up, I need to wear extra padding where she will be punching me. ;-)

BTW: what is "cold" tire pressure anyway? This morning the boathouse thermometer said the mist rising off the lake was 5°C. Legacy's dash and the rear TPMS claimed it was 4° beside the garage. The front disagreed claiming it was only 3°. My leather jacket said "Who cares, just plug in the vest dummy!" Pressures were 30F/34R -- compared to 33F/36R when "cold" was 20°C. There's a 10% difference right there. Right now it's 16° ambient and we have 32F/35R.

For the record, both tires were at 30°C by TIC immediately after a 2-1/2 hour ride this morning. Pressures were 35F/39R, which I think is more meaningful than the cold pressure. We don't ride on cold tires, do we? The cold pressure standard is stuck in our collective wisdom since the days of model Ts and bias ply tires.

Anyway, ride with whatever pressure floats your boat. Just keep the rubber side down!
I've used Pilot Road 4 GTs and got about 4500-5000miles on the rear and 8000 on the front
Pilot Road 5 GTs 5000 miles both front and back both worn at same rate, off on a trip to Europe and so had to change probably 1000 miles left
Just put a pair of Pilot Road 6 GTs on, with s going on a long trip and it's the tyre i now. But wont be using the pilot road next time, they are advertised as
15% more life, well may be on the rear but not the front. The dealer said the 5 and 6s wear the front and rear at the same time, and at £340 a pair fitted to loose wheels ill be trying something else.
The dealer said the 5 and 6s wear the front and rear at the same time,
The 6's maybe, but in my experience not the 5's. I regularly wore the 5's down to the wear bars on the sides long before the rears needed replacement. Perhaps if one was to rigorously avoid cornering the wear might be similar but in that case, why ride? <lol>
The R6 is supposed to bring the same dual-compound construction used on the R5 rear to the front tire too.

I might be reading into this but it sounds like the R6 upgrades the front tire over the R5. Could that mean that the rear R6 hasn't changed (much?) from the rear R5? In your research did you come across anything to back that up? I've given up on their front tires but do like the rears. Replaced my RS3 front with a T32 and the rear RS3 is coming due soon. Was thinking about a R6 but there's a bit of a price jump for that over the R5. If they haven't done much to improve the rear I'd rather save some moolah.

BTW thanks for the write-up on the Mutant. I was really tempted to give that a try just for the WTH factor but you might have made me lean against it for now. Will be watching for your long-term impressions though. :)
I think the biggest change was to the front R6 -- they switched to their "dual CT+" technology from the R5 "dual CT technology" (which the R5 rear already featured). Ultimately it's all marketing speak for something they claim stiffens the carcass for cornering.

However, the rears are not identical. Michelin tweaked the silica compound on the R6 rear. Silica helps improve wet grip without sacrificing durability compared to carbon, but it's difficult to get evenly distributed in the compound. How much difference it will make in the real world remains to be seen.

So far I'm happy with the Mutant -- but it's real early days yet. I have not had the opportunity to test them in the wet and have no idea how long they will last.
Shinko Verge 2X DCT. Smoooth leanable and perfect in the rain. I had trouble verifying my ABS was inop so I tried one rainy night coming up to a light and could barely lock up the front and couldnt the rear. Yes they wear quicker but I am a tech and change my own so I dont mind. There is no way tires almost 3x as much money could perform any better except last longer, and even then the value is still not there (wear like iron, ride like iron). Mine lasted 5500 aggressive miles with the smallest of chicken strips. This time I tried the single compound and find they steer noticeably heavier so I will go back to the 2CT next time. I use the brand on all my bikes and all I can say is they are great tires with an unfortunate name:)
I also use a set of T connector valve stems on my Gen3, and thus never have to actually mess with my lock-nutted TPMS sensors on the one input.
It's a sweet set up - and I've been using a similar approach on both a Gen1 and now this Gen3 - cumulatively for about 8 years now with no regrets.
So JTH, How do the tires compare on similar FJRs?

On dry roads?
On wet roads?
On curves?
And mileage ?