What's the most accurate connection for Datel?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

yamaha1300rider

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
156
Reaction score
0
Location
Surrey, UK
I've had my Datel voltmeter for over a year now and it's bugged me that I have to add 0.8V to the reading to get the true voltage. You see I have had the voltmeter switched by connecting to the relay for the Magnum horns.

So today I disconnected the live from the relay and connected to the blue wire for the rear running light - this way I still get the Datel switched - blow me but the reading is still 0.8V below what it should be.

I've now connected the live from the Datel direct to the Battery + terminal and I have a correct value - but it's not switched!!.

But my questions are :

1. How can I have my Datel wire up so it is switched and gives a true voltage?

2. If I decide to add a real switch in the Datel circuit how do I find one that is waterproof?

TIA

 
I've had my Datel voltmeter for over a year now and it's bugged me that I have to add 0.8V to the reading to get the true voltage. You see I have had the voltmeter switched by connecting to the relay for the Magnum horns.
So today I disconnected the live from the relay and connected to the blue wire for the rear running light - this way I still get the Datel switched - blow me but the reading is still 0.8V below what it should be.

I've now connected the live from the Datel direct to the Battery + terminal and I have a correct value - but it's not switched!!.

But my questions are :

1. How can I have my Datel wire up so it is switched and gives a true voltage?

2. If I decide to add a real switch in the Datel circuit how do I find one that is waterproof?

TIA
There is waterproof switch on the market, you could also use a relay only for the voltmeter.

+ of the battery to the relay, out of the relay to the + of the Datel

- of the battery to the - of the Datel

Now to switch the relay on connect the two wires to anything that goes on when you power up the bike, I would go to the side front lights.

So you will avoid having voltage lost because of a change in current or resistance.

You could also recalibrate the Datel to show 0.8 volts more and leave it where it is actually, simply ask Datel the procedure to calibrate the voltmeter.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I take a different approach.

The hot lead id taken directly from the battery (+) post. with a small (1-amp) in-line fuse in between the post and the Datel (+) contact.

The negative lead is taken directly off the battery's negative post, wired through a heavy-duty toggle switch.

I throw the toggle switch to complete the circuit, and the Datel reads a voltage with virtually no drop at all.... in my case13.9 v at 3000 rpm, no loads on the bike other than the engine running (ElectroSport stator; you stock stators guys should see 14.2-ish volts under the same conditions).

 
Thanks Pierre/Warchild

I must admit it has worried me not having an in-line fuse - the manufacturers don't suggest one

I'll probably go the relay route suggested by Pierre if I can't find a suitable switch.

One last question Warchild:

Any chance of a pic of your toggle switch? If not, where did you site it?

Cheers

 
Thanks Pierre/Warchild
I must admit it has worried me not having an in-line fuse - the manufacturers don't suggest one

I'll probably go the relay route suggested by Pierre if I can't find a suitable switch.

One last question Warchild:

Any chance of a pic of your toggle switch? If not, where did you site it?

Cheers

If you decide to go with a switch go with Warchild set-up, my suggestion was if you decide to light up the Datel when you start the bike, if not Warchild suggestion is better and much simpler.

Waterproof Switch

 
Last edited by a moderator:
One last question Warchild:
Any chance of a pic of your toggle switch? If not, where did you site it?

From FJRTech: Installing Philips HID lights (pg 6) ::

cunt-1.jpg


 
Nice!

The wiring of my Datel directly is something I'm going to ponder this winter when I redo some electrics in the nose as well. My current configuration of a decent gauge wire off of a relay has worked pretty well for me with maybe 1/10 of one volt difference.

I can't quite tell if your switch and cover boots are the identical models, but clearly the same idea as the Gardner Benders. If they are different and you want to provide me brand and model numbers I'd certainly add that to the Bin-O-Facts.

Good job!

 
Hi ignacio

As I'm in the uk I got the switch/cover from Maplin (similar to radio shack) - not many of the forum members likely to be interested therefore.

The only differences in my final set compared to Warchild's suggestions are:

1.ran + and -ve leads from Blue Seas and inserted a 3amp fuse as I haven't found a 1amp anywhere yet (either blade or glass)

2. Used single pole single throw switch

3. sealed around switch with silicone

As you say, difference between voltage at battery direct and my set up is less than 0.1V

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Pierre,

"You could also recalibrate the Datel to show 0.8 volts more and leave it where it is actually, simply ask Datel the procedure to calibrate the voltmeter."

Have you any knowledge of adjusting the Datel?

Awhile ago I had called Datel about my meter indicating low & they didn't advance any suggestion of adjustment. It's a sealed unit, how could there be any?

dobias :glare:

 
Top