Yep, another AVCC thread..

[jasona1700]

Well, finally set aside a day today, and installed the AVCC. I've done so much research on this project, but I haven't seen this project just yet. (Quick side note..for those interested in this project, I've saved all the pages on this site to "My Favorites"on my laptop and plan to post the links for a one-stop-shop on AVCC installs and troubleshooting)

A quick background: Didn't feel like messing with removal of the water pipe, so I mounted the servo under the seat. Also, used the 2 switch setup that can be seen here https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...amp;#entry16030 to replace the control box.

All wiring is as those before me have done. I used the orange wire for the coil pickup. I get a blinking light at idol on the servo, so I assume the coil wire is good.

Here's the problem:

The bike idles anywhere from 1500-2500rpm. AND the AVCC doesn’t seem to set. I'm too frustrated today to continue to troubleshoot. The beaded chain didn't seem to bind, so I don't think it's an issue of a mechanical hang-up. I know there's good vacuum, as when I pulled the tubing from the servo, it sounded like a soda can opening.

Any ideas for what will probably be a day of troubleshooting??

Thanks in advance!

 

[kaitsdad]

two things come to mind -

If you pulled the fuel rail to do the install, it's very possible you have a disconnected vacuum line. Check this first.

Second - if the bolt used to attach to the throttle tang is too long, or if it's in the wrong place by 1/8", it's very possible that the throttle is being held open by the bolt/nut assembly hitting the throttle tang stop before the tang does. This is a quick check as well.

As to it not setting - multiple items can do this -

EDIT to remove some items:

a bad connector in the harness - the molex connectors can appear to be seated in the plastic connectors - but may not be, as a result, you have an open.

if you are using a LED tail light bulb, or have a "back-off" device installed, either of those will prevent the signaling from happening - and will prevent the set-

My guess is that you're chasing two different problems - idle speed and failure to set.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Does the LED light up when you press the Set button? How about when you press/pull the brake pedal/lever?

 

[jasona1700]

two things come to mind -
If you pulled the fuel rail to do the install, it's very possible you have a disconnected vacuum line. Check this first.

Second - if the bolt used to attach to the throttle tang is too long, or if it's in the wrong place by 1/8", it's very possible that the throttle is being held open by the bolt/nut assembly hitting the throttle tang stop before the tang does. This is a quick check as well.

As to it not setting - multiple items can do this -

EDIT to remove some items:

a bad connector in the harness - the molex connectors can appear to be seated in the plastic connectors - but may not be, as a result, you have an open.

if you are using a LED tail light bulb, or have a "back-off" device installed, either of those will prevent the signaling from happening - and will prevent the set-

My guess is that you're chasing two different problems - idle speed and failure to set.

After sleeping on the problem, I suspect that the idle problem could be either a vacuum line or the button head screw on the tang as well. These will be the first things I check. I'll check the connectors as well..didn't think about that one.

I have a stock brake light setup, so pretty sure that's not the cause.

Thanks for the help.. I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[jasona1700]

Does the LED light up when you press the Set button? How about when you press/pull the brake pedal/lever?

Just checked it, and the LED does light up steady both with the brake lever and the set button..

 

[chrisflock]

It may be possible if you pulled the fuel rail, that you lost/damaged one of the o-rings on one of the injectors, which is letting extra air into the manifold.

That will cause the bike to run poorly, idle erratically, and the CC not to work. With the engine running, you probably won't hear anything with the tank down, but when you lift the tank and heatshield, you'll hear it.

Go ahead, ask me how I know.

 

[jasona1700]

It may be possible if you pulled the fuel rail, that you lost/damaged one of the o-rings on one of the injectors, which is letting extra air into the manifold.
That will cause the bike to run poorly, idle erratically, and the CC not to work. With the engine running, you probably won't hear anything with the tank down, but when you lift the tank and heatshield, you'll hear it.

Go ahead, ask me how I know.

Yeah, been in situations like that. Well here's where I'm at now. I think it was the beaded chain connector hitting the idle stop. I suspect this because I have a power commander on the bike and noticed that when I turned on the ignition, the second to button led was lit, indicating that the throttle was not at idle. I bent the tang just a bit, and now everything checks as it's suppose to. About ready to button the bike back up and take it for a test ride. All other connections to the servo seem to check out as they are suppose to. Yesterday, on my test ride, I only got up to about 25mph before I realized the idol problem and turned around and went home. So I'm hoping that I just wasn't going fast enough for the CC to engage (even though I purposely keep the rpms up in 2nd gear to simulate going faster). We'll see. I'll report back in 15 minutes, hopefully much happier!

 

[jasona1700]

OK. The good news: Idle is fixed. Bending the tang a bit fixed it.

The bad news: CC still won't engage. I removed the aux vacuum tank thinking that may be the problem..still no luck. The LED acts as it should under all the tests I've done (switch tests and rev the engine=light blinks faster). I checked with my volt meter, and the purple wire is at zero, then goes to 12v as it should when I hit the brakes.

I know it's a bit early in the game, but starting to think I have a bad CC?