2013--Erratic/Random Coolant Temp Readout--Problem?

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I think you would like the instruments Wheatie.

Howie, you can ride with me any time, but... I don't own a superior Gen II any more. I'd be on my superiore Gen III...
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Both of you would be VERY happy with POS gen III FJR....
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I would NOT trade you for a POS gen 1
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Hey! Get it RIGHT! POS is the Gen II. The Gen III is the Super-Duper POS!

You would think that those temperature fluctuations would be causing havoc for the engine computer and its control of fueling.

Why?

Other than warm up, I would think incoming air temperature would be the only the thing the ECU is concerned about when fueling (along with other parameters).

 
It seems to me that if you put together enough data points, you would have a smooth wave form fluctuating regularly by 40 degrees. Co-incidentally, where we expect the thermostat to open and close.

I would guess that at speed, in relatively cool ambient temperatures, the thermostat closes, the coolant trapped in the radiator cools to near ambient, the engine heats back up, the thermostat opens, allowing alot of very cool coolant to flow into then engine until the thermostat closes and the cycle repeats. I think it shows that Yamaha over built the radiator. That is a good thing.

I would expect these "fluctuations" will disappear when the ambient temperature gets hotter.

 
Just a quick update based on my recent ride. Ambient air temp was a steady 59, freeway riding fairly constant 75mph ....... coolant temp fluctuated greatly as much as between 159 and 186 within the space of approx. 10 seconds.

There's no way the coolant actually changed to (either) of those temps in the brief time span so it's got to be a sending unit or gauge error.

 
Just a quick update based on my recent ride. Ambient air temp was a steady 59, freeway riding fairly constant 75mph ....... coolant temp fluctuated greatly as much as between 159 and 186 within the space of approx. 10 seconds.There's no way the coolant actually changed to (either) of those temps in the brief time span so it's got to be a sending unit or gauge error.
Not that big of a difference (27 degrees F). Depending upon the location of the temperature sensor, I would think this is easily possible with the opening/closing of the thermostat. There could be a very large difference between the temperature of the coolant in the engine vs what's in the radiator- much larger than 27 °F.

 
On the earlier FJRs the thermostat just starts to open at 160 DegF and is fully open at 185 DegF. Also the earlier models have a constant flow of coolant which bypasses the thermostat. The wax motor gizmo which actuates the high idle cold start system has a small constant flow of coolant.
On my 2007 FZ6 it has a digital temp read out. The thermostat opening/closing is the same 160F open, fully open at 185F.

Any riding, slow or fast, the temp will gradually change numbers (up or down) without ANY JUMPING of numbers. Any changes are by one degree at a time (even in heavy traffic going slow)..

IMO, there's no way coolant temps jump 30 degree's in a second and comes back down again. There's an electronic glitch somewhere...

 
When things like the gas level which sloshes around is measured and displayed digitally the ECU will process the signal. Typically the ECU will measure the gas level, say once every 15 seconds for 10 samples, then averages the readings, and then displays the bars that should represent the gas level. This will yield an update every 2.5 minutes, an interval in which the gas level won't have changed one bar (unless you are perhaps going 150 mph). This yields a sufficient refresh rate to show correct information, but not so sensitive that the bars flicker. This is what the software in the ECU should be doing with the coolant temperature, only alter the digital filtering so that the reading is averaged and the display updated every 30 seconds or so. This would be fast enough to be accurate, but slow enough to stabilize the digits on the display.

Unless Yamaha recalls the Gen III to fix this 'problem' we can implement an analog solution using something like a 47uF capacitor with a 100k resistor to slow down the signal changes. I would need to see a schematic from a Gen III to provide a schematic of how the cap and resistor should be wired. I would also need conformation that the temperature sensor uses one wire. It should be simple to make a kit for this. The big question that a guinea pig would have to answer is what the ECU would think about a slow and stable signal
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we can implement an analog solution using something like a 47uF capacitor with a 100k resistor to slow down the signal changes. I would need to see a schematic from a Gen III to provide a schematic of how the cap and resistor should be wired. I would also need conformation that the temperature sensor uses one wire. It should be simple to make a kit for this. The big question that a guinea pig would have to answer is what the ECU would think about a slow and stable signal
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Wouldn't you also need wire color, size, and length? Plus the temperature in the plant when it was assembled? and the dudes name who did the assembling?

I think the ECU would probably get all pissy and let the air outa the tires, maybe even tip it over when it was parked.

Seems like a bunch of busy work to me...

 
...Seems like a bunch of busy work to me...
Wow, not even noon yet and you are already right. Nothing left to do now but hit the bar
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Hey, this is the Forum, nothing is too trivial not to obsess over. Since people are loosing sleep over this we can help them get past this tragedy.

 
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we can implement an analog solution using something like a 47uF capacitor with a 100k resistor to slow down the signal changes. I would need to see a schematic from a Gen III to provide a schematic of how the cap and resistor should be wired. I would also need conformation that the temperature sensor uses one wire. It should be simple to make a kit for this. The big question that a guinea pig would have to answer is what the ECU would think about a slow and stable signal
ermm.gif
Wouldn't you also need wire color, size, and length? Plus the temperature in the plant when it was assembled? and the dudes name who did the assembling?

I think the ECU would probably get all pissy and let the air outa the tires, maybe even tip it over when it was parked.

Seems like a bunch of busy work to me...
Yo! Dufus! This is a technical thread. Go back to your threads about sheep and such.

 
... with a 100k resistor ...
I doubt that would work. Most likely the sensor is a thermistor, the Gen II's is stated as 290-354 ohms at 80C (176 F), I expect it's the same in a Gen III.

Any series resistor would change the calibration.

A simple shunt capacitor would need to be of the order of 33000uF (going by 300 ohms resistance, 10 seconds time constant).

 
... with a 100k resistor ...
I doubt that would work. Most likely the sensor is a thermistor, the Gen II's is stated as 290-354 ohms at 80C (176 F), I expect it's the same in a Gen III.

Any series resistor would change the calibration.

A simple shunt capacitor would need to be of the order of 33000uF (going by 300 ohms resistance, 10 seconds time constant).
That's one high value cap!

PM is coming -- at some point.

 
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OH, GAWD......SELL IT AND BUY A NEW ONE FOR CRIKEY'S SAKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
Had a 96 Dodge with Cummins diesel that would wag the therm-O-meter as described here. But it was an analog gauge so it was simply a dance of the needle from low to high to low to high.

Me thinks the Gen3 was developed by a Gen2 enJineeeer to drive all Gen2 peeps back to Gen2's so they can sell more wiring harnesses..

 
...Me thinks the Gen3 was developed by a Gen2 enJineeeer...so they can sell more wiring harnesses..
The same software enJineeeer that wrote the Gen II high altitude fuel trim software and the instant gas mileage readout. It was another electrical enJineeeer that designed the self immolating electrical harness and self immolating ignition switch. I think they hired them from Ford's Pinto, Escape and Fusion design teams
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Just a quick note....while riding mine yesterday i did notice that while sitting at a light that my temp gauge it 206 and as soon as i started moving it went right back down again....

NO PROBLEM......

just ride it.

R

 
Took mine out for a 150 mile ride on Friday. After reading 4 pages of posts I really didn't even notice the .. what was this post about?

 
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