Fluctuating Idle

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Nice job Fred, adding to his angst and all...
I'm just here to help... :rolleyes:
Damn, Fred...you gonna chase away ANOTHER newb? You need about a 16 week old kitten to calm your angry ass down a little, bud!

You know that 50 rpm variance is gonna cost him about .0000000000000000001 mpg for every 10 days it sits and idles, right?

Not to mention the extra stress on the muffler bearings.

:assassin:
Those muffler bearings are a bitch to replace.
Not if you hook the anterior flange to one of these:

d9n.jpg


 
:unsure: My idle fluctuates approx. 50rpm at idle. It's done this since odometer zero (and for 30 days now at 750mi). It seems to do it less after being run out on the road.

My Yamaha dealer (Ride Now) wants about $30 less than if I buy my own CarbTune for synch job plus all other 1st service checks, excluding oil, filter and shaft/final lube (I did that already myself). Their Gold Certified Yamaha tech has a carb synch tool that he says is digital and it does other checks too.

What I'm doing now is racking up miles to 1,000+ so that the synching that I'll have done in a few weeks will last for a while. :p

A lingering problem about the out-of-synch riding I'm doing is that the first pull away after starting cold will jerk the clutch into and out of engagement until fully engaged and rolling away. It can be scary because as tacky as my OEM tires are, a smooth cement surface can make the rear wheel spin a little if the throttle is moved too quickly. Setting the idle up to 1050 allowed me to pull away with less clutch clack & chatter but then coming to a stop made the clutch stay engaged while breaking. I've since turned the idle back down to 950. :(

Let us know if the synch helps when you have it done. I'd also guess that being an '09 it's quite lean at idle, and a richer idle mixture may help. It did for me on my '08.

Just ignore the seemingly rude comments we all make at times for some reason or another. Too much coffee, spouse on a rampage, boss angry, no clean clothes, bill collector at the door, medical problems - all will do it.

Gary in Fairbanks

 
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A ~50 rpm fluctuation when the idle speed is set to 1,100 rpm is probably as good as it is going to get.

The FJR has several things going against it for smooth idle; one is light(er) flywheel weight. To help an engine spin up quickly the rotational mass needs to be as light as possible. One of the reasons that race bikes and race cars must rev their engines is because there is so little flywheel weight that the engine won't idle at low rpms with the aggressive cams they use.

If the engineers were to add flywheel weight to the FJR's engine I would like to see it by means of installing a heaver magnetic rotor in the charging system. Smoother engine, mo' electrical power but less ability to rev up quickly when the throttle is popped open.

Another thing that contributes to wandering idle is an EPA compliance lean engine.

 
A lingering problem about the out-of-synch riding I'm doing is that the first pull away after starting cold will jerk the clutch into and out of engagement until fully engaged and rolling away. It can be scary because as tacky as my OEM tires are, a smooth cement surface can make the rear wheel spin a little if the throttle is moved too quickly. Setting the idle up to 1050 allowed me to pull away with less clutch clack & chatter but then coming to a stop made the clutch stay engaged while breaking. I've since turned the idle back down to 950. :(
You have an AE?

Consider reducing the slack in the throttle cable. This may help you to be smoother with the throttle, which will reduce the other issues you are experiencing.

There have been issues with clutch plates sticking, due to being improperly soaked during assembly. If the clutch is not disengaging, it's likely the plates need a soak. The dealer should be aware of this issue, and do it under warranty. Don't live with it, it's not going to get better over time.

 
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