Loose saddle bag locking latch screws

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RichardS

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After reading several posts on this subject that were not very clear, I started to look for these screws. All I could find on my '08 were rivets. Then low & behold, there they were. Since I am an ex-engineer cursed with having obsessive complusive disorder (perfectionist), I will make a short story VERY long since I do not believe in TMI (too much info). Newbies & oldbies heed please, all the windshield advise/posts needs your height & inseam size included so others can make a intelligent decison on your choice !

There are 2 little screws under the plastic latch that holds the case key cylinder lock. Forget about using the proper size torx head driver to remove these, the screws have an anti-theft pin in the center. Don't go & buy the special torx head screw driver, they are costly & not needed. One postee used channel locks. I used a new (read sharp cornered) pair of pliers. The area is very small, I have big arthritic hands. I removed the bags for ease of work, leaving the 'removal' case handle UP for more working space. I was amazed how easy the screws came out dispite their location and size (and no Loctite on them). If you can't see them unscrewing, use a black marker to stripe one edge or face ( the 4th screw did never turn, so I left it in). After unscrewing with the pliers for several turns, I could get my big fingers in and finish removing them a lot easier.

If you mechanically challenged &/or have big hands/fingers, I suggest removing only 1 screw at a time. Removing both will cause the lock cylinder to fall out of it's plastic bushing while both fall out of the case latch. The bushing has 2 alignment pins for proper install, the lock cylinder has 1 pin and 2 possible locations, but both seem to work properly. But keeping 1 screw in also retains the metal latch that is 1 less part to align AND hold during reassembly.

I used common household tweezers to hold the new screw head while applying the Locktite, and while initially tighening the screw. Keep/wipe Locktite off of any plastic as it may attack it.

I went to the local Ace hardware store to buy replacements screws. They carried 4 dif kinds of M3 x.5 x 6mm long screws: 1. 'shiny' phillips head pan head @ $.13 each, 2. stainless steel phillips head pan head @ .23 each, 3. blackened button head @ .25 each & 4. stainless steel button head @.29 each. Both button heads use a 2mm hex key. I bought #1's, and used a new(er) sharp bladed phillips head screw driver. No need to screw these down hard, let the Locktite do it's job.

Ace also had M3 x .5 x 5mm (too short!) and M3 x .5 x 8mm (too long!). Have a good day.

 
I also did this recently. I used a dremel tool with cut off wheel to cut slots in the screw heads, then easily turned them out with a flat blade screw driver. Peace of mind.

 
<SNIP>

I went to the local Ace hardware store to buy replacements screws.

<SNIP>

FNG--Yes but aren’t you concerned that a thief will somehow pick your lock and remove the non security screws and steal your bag lock? The security screws are there to safe guard the lock, not the bag or it’s contents. Now if they pick my lock the thief will no doubt say “s**t”, after seeing my lock security screws, and then run off in the night, leaving my bag unlocked, unopened, still hanging on my bike with the lock firmly secured to the handle.

Makes sense to me---Read my quote below!

Later,,,,De :) Hee Hee

 
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After reading several posts on this subject that were not very clear, I started to look for these screws. All I could find on my '08 were rivets. Then low & behold, there they were.
RichardS, you took the words right out of my mouth. It took me twice to find the darn things!! So I thought I might be able to add a little to your post to help those down the road with the same problem.

The pic below shows the top of one of the FJR saddlebags showing the bag handle to the top & right and the saddlebag locking latch to the left with the orange thingy hanging out. Notice the lock on the "locking" latch....that'll be important later.

102_0272b.jpg


If you look at what the bottom of the orange thingy (locking latch) looks like, here's what you see.....

102_0271b.jpg


And darned if the locking latch/orange thingy doesn't have 2 little screws holding it in place....

102_0267b.jpg


These screws are hollow-tip Torx (T10 to be exact) security screws. I doubt anyone would have the right drive bit for these puppies unless you ordered the security bit drive set as mentioned in the Bin-O-Facts. When you put together this bit with a magnetized drive bit holder and cordless screwdriver you achieve "tool nirvana" for accomplishing the application of Locktite to these screws. The screws never left the bit and all 4 were out, Locktited, and back in one by one in less than 5 minutes. I love it when a plan comes together. :drinks:

Now I'm not bashing your method RichardS as we all know there's more than 1 way to skin a kitty; but, I am saying the right tool(s) can make all the difference and this job becomes easy/squeezy with the right tool.

VP

PS thanks for the info on screw sizes as that's a great piece of info to have and hang on to.

 
All good ideas, fo sho, but Toecutter's safety pin system [bin o facts] is the mutt's nuts..Ya'll do know that it is possible to push the latch down, and turn the little orange thingy under the carry handle instead of into the slot on the carry handle, and thencly totally lose the bag when hitting a bump, right? I think I will replace the little buggers with socket head screws tho.

 
Ya'll do know that it is possible to push the latch down, and turn the little orange thingy under the carry handle instead of into the slot on the carry handle, and thencly totally lose the bag when hitting a bump, right?
Mine don't turn that way

 
Guys, why not use the correct torx bit?

I've found the "security" bits at both Lowes and Home Depot. Ace Hardware had them in stock too. They are very common in commercial rest room partitions and other things found in public places. Less than $2 for the bits, comes two per package. Mine are from Dewalt. These things are just to keep the honest people away or at least slow them down a bit.. <_<

 
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Harbor Frieght carries a whole set of these security torx thingies (the bits) for 7 - 10 dollars and puts them on sale occasionally too. They are low quality, but have worked well for me. The way I found these was when I lost my Garmin mount unlocking tool. The whole set from Harbor Frieight was cheaper than the Garmin single thingie. Of course the HF bits are not titanium, nor coated in zarconium, nor are they drilled so you can wear them around your neck. You will just have to hide them in your pocket at the rally parking lots. CC

 
Harbor Frieght carries a whole set of these security torx thingies (the bits) for 7 - 10 dollars and puts them on sale occasionally too.
Yep, scored a set of security bit drivers at Harbor Freight (the WalMart of hardware) a few weeks ago. Without getting up to look in the garage, as I recall there are 2 or 3 each of the popular styles of security, Torx, Triangle, stuff I can't think of the proper name... a total of about 30 or so with various driver adapters. I recall paying under $10 for the whole shiteroo.

Finally got around to LocTiting my bag lock screws, then while I still had the box of drivers in my hand, remembered that my toaster oven had ceased to function a few days prior. Yep, some funky security screws there to prevent "Owner Servicing". Figured what the hell, got nothing to lose, so disassembled and found the relay contacts in the switch mechanism totally pitted and failing to latch in the closed position. A few strokes with some of my hobby "Swiss Jewelers Needle Files (made in Tiawan and also from HF years ago), and it worked like new. Back together with the security screws and Voila, just saved the $40 or so it would take to replace the damn thing.

Moral of the story: I'm a tool junkie, and love high quality hand tools... have a couple of thousand bucks worth. But for light duty/occasional use type specialty tools, you can do far worse than Harbor Freight.

Don

 
The way I found these was when I lost my Garmin mount unlocking tool. The whole set from Harbor Frieight was cheaper than the Garmin single thingie.
Hey CC, I have an extra Garmin security screwdriver (bought two mounts and replaced the security screws with thumb screws) if you want it just PM me your address and I'll send it to you. Then you can wear it around your neck again. ;) Seriously.

 
Ya'll do know that it is possible to push the latch down, and turn the little orange thingy under the carry handle instead of into the slot on the carry handle, and thencly totally lose the bag when hitting a bump, right?
Mine don't turn that way
The orange tab slots into a groove on the carry handle preventing it from lifting up and releasing the bag. If the carry handle is slightly raised up the tab will go under it and fail to lock it down. Bye bag..

 
:angry: I would advise all of you to at least check these lock screws and loctite them in place. Both fell out on my nearly new 08 FJR on the right case. All that was left was the locking tab off the lock and one screw. Somewhere on my way home on a long ride the right case popped open and I lost a $400 helmet. I still don't have a replacement lock which should be covered under warranty. I used the spare lock but now I don't have a spare for the Yamaha top box. The dealer doesn't think they can get me a matching lock and says there is no liability from Yamaha for the lost helmet. I checked the other case and one screw was half backed out of the lock and the other could be loosened by hand.
 
Maybe someone else that bought from D&H had the same experience.

when I picked up my '08 the tech was going over the bike with me, doing the inspection.

he was well aware of the lock screws backing out and the use of locktite.

he had another remedy and if it wasn't 20 degrees in the garage I'd go look for myself so I could speak a little bit intelligently.

appareently when he assembled the locks onto the latch, iirc, he use a tool he fashioned out of an old utility blade to allow the screws to go in deeper. (don't get excited. I couldn't think of another way to say that.)

his opinion was that the problem was the screws didn't have enough turns to really hold and that giving them more threads to grip was preferable to using the locktite on just a couple of threads.

I can't verify this as true since he didn't show me one in process, just told me that was what he did and showed me the home-made tool he had.

just sayin'.......

 
:angry: I would advise all of you to at least check these lock screws and loctite them in place. Both fell out on my nearly new 08 FJR on the right case. All that was left was the locking tab off the lock and one screw. Somewhere on my way home on a long ride the right case popped open and I lost a $400 helmet. I still don't have a replacement lock which should be covered under warranty. I used the spare lock but now I don't have a spare for the Yamaha top box. The dealer doesn't think they can get me a matching lock and says there is no liability from Yamaha for the lost helmet. I checked the other case and one screw was half backed out of the lock and the other could be loosened by hand.
Same thing happened to me, except the case didn't actually fly open, but the little tab was completely gone. Luckily the lock cylinder itself was still there. Dealer I bought the bike from got me an entire new lock set as a warranty replacement even though I only needed the little tab. Apparently they couldn't order just the little tab. Anyways, if your dealer can get you an entire new lock set you may be able to take a lock cylinder to a lock smith and get it re-keyed so it matches your others (see the thread on making the givi locks work with your Yamaha keys, should be the same with a Yamaha lock :) ) And they should get you a new lock or lock set as warranty.

Good luck!

 
There are lots of good posts on this subject, but I posted on this one due to the great detailed explanation with pix.

Latch clicky (this one is a beauty).

Another latch clicky of many.

My story. My old Feej latch screws, one was loose the other ok, I loc-tite them, done.

My new to me Feej I didnt get around to it until…. I notice the last few days my latch, or lock, would rotate almost 180º, its only designed for 90º. So I finally decide to look at it this morning in my work parking lot after I used the thing and it over rotated again. I notice the screws are way loose and backing out a few threads, to the point that the latch jumped the stop. WOW! I best fix that. So I hand tighten them, thatll do to get home, and I loc-tite them, done.

Heres my question: How is it some riders lost their latch, etc., and never noticed this over rotation condition? Its quite obvious, and the screw is fairly long considering how small the area is. Its not like itll fall out after unscrewing two threads. Whats up folks? Know your bike, and whats different, and deal with it. Just sayin. :blink:

 
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<img src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=" :angry: " border="0" alt="mad.gif" /> I would advise all of you to at least check these lock screws and loctite them in place. Both fell out on my nearly new 08 FJR on the right case. All that was left was the locking tab off the lock and one screw. Somewhere on my way home on a long ride the right case popped open and I lost a $400 helmet. I still don't have a replacement lock which should be covered under warranty. I used the spare lock but now I don't have a spare for the Yamaha top box. The dealer doesn't think they can get me a matching lock and says there is no liability from Yamaha for the lost helmet. I checked the other case and one screw was half backed out of the lock and the other could be loosened by hand.
You can buy a lock on line for about $65 and have a locksmith rekey it for a few dollars.

 
<img src="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=" :angry: " border="0" alt="mad.gif" /> I would advise all of you to at least check these lock screws and loctite them in place. Both fell out on my nearly new 08 FJR on the right case. All that was left was the locking tab off the lock and one screw. Somewhere on my way home on a long ride the right case popped open and I lost a $400 helmet. I still don't have a replacement lock which should be covered under warranty. I used the spare lock but now I don't have a spare for the Yamaha top box. The dealer doesn't think they can get me a matching lock and says there is no liability from Yamaha for the lost helmet. I checked the other case and one screw was half backed out of the lock and the other could be loosened by hand.
You can buy a lock on line for about $65 and have a locksmith rekey it for a few dollars.
You replied to a 2½ year old post (jstewart).... :blink: But good info for others. ;)
 
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