Problems getting the rotors off

[Ramblin Man]

So what's the best method of getting the rotor bolts out? The heads of the bolts are stripping before I can get them loose. I've stripped two already. Two are loose. I'm not looking forward to drilling any bolts let alone a bunch of locktite'd rotor bolts.

 

[GunMD]

Good luck w/ that task. When I replaced my rotors w/ ABM rotors (from the group buy in...I think 2005) my rotor bolts were nearly phuckin' welded in place. Those little effers were tough to get out. I ended up replacing all of them. That was when my bike only had like 15K miles on it, too.

I had to end up drillin' a couple of mine.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

I've always used an Allen drive on a 3/8 impact. A little secret I use is to grind the end of the drive a little so that it will go all the way in the bolt to the very bottom for a good bite. If they're stubborn, I heat a little to melt the locktite. Haven't stripped one yet.

 

[SockMonkey]

These work like a charm: Impact Driver. No tool box should be without one!

 

[Groo]

Get a small torch (Lowe's and Home depot sell them with small replacement fuel canisters) and heat up the area around the bolt. Give it a good bit of heat, and the Loctite becomes much more compliant...

I replaced my stock rotors with the ABMs, and didn't strip a single bolt doing it this way... and didn't need an impact wrench either.

 

[Kiki]

So what's the best method of getting the rotor bolts out? The heads of the bolts are stripping before I can get them loose. I've stripped two already. Two are loose. I'm not looking forward to drilling any bolts let alone a bunch of locktite'd rotor bolts.

You should be using an impact driver -- it snaps the the threadlock seal that is installed on those bolts.

 

[Ramblin Man]

I used an impact driver, but I haven't tried a torch, I was worried about the paint. I'll give that a try.

 

[SkooterG]

I used heat and an impact driver. Most were difficult, but had major problems with one. But as it became rounded, I was able to wedge a slightly bigger standard sized hex in and get it out.

The key is to use heat and the impact driver right away, BEFORE you strat rounding shit.

 

[993_Pilot]

I know your pain. I stripped a few too, even with heat, although I haven't tried an impact driver. I thought about getting Tasty Nuts , but just ended up ordering oem replacement bolts at my local stealership.

 

[Canadian FJR]

I had troubles with one. Take a small coal type chisel and make a small notch. Then tap it in the proper direction......should begin to spin. Good luck.

Canadian FJR

 

[V GER]

ANYONE??

 

[JR'SFJR]

Make sure the end of the allen wrench is not rounded. If they are, I either file or grind them flat on the end so they "bite" better. I use a 3/8" allen drive socket type with a ratchet instead of the L shape tool. Tap on the allen socket first with a small hammer to make sure its seated before attempting to turn it. It it does strip out, you can either use a die grinder to make a flat blade screwdriver slot. Then belly up pushing with a flat blade screwdriver and a wrench on the hex part of the screwdriver for more torque to remove it.

 

[Lake Powell]

Heat and a good quality wrench, and I still had two that rounded out. After I got the others out I drilled out the the failed ones and got the original rotor off. After that I got a firm girp on the remaining stud with some vice grips and they came out.

Also, the front wheel was worse for this than the rear.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I always order new bolts with every replacement rotor. So you know what happens to my old ones.

+1 on the impact driver and heat.

Acetone on the hub threads and the new bolts, before applying the Locktite.

 

[Ramblin Man]

ANYONE??

I'll be using heat on the bolts, but that loctite freeze stuff looks like just what I need to get a siezed piston out of a block I have. I've tried heating the block with a propane heater and filling the piston with ice and got it to move about an 8th of an inch. This should do the trick for that.

 

[DonRed7]

Tip #1 when trying to remove a allen/torx/phillips or Robertson(in Canada Eh) if you suspect that the threads are locked by corrosion or chemicals(intentionally). Use a 3/8'S socket type driver and give it a couple of sharp taps with a med sized hammer then possibly heat and spray with a penetrant if they look like an absolute challenge. Leave it until the area cools such as to draw in the penetrant then throw the ratchet on it.

You really don't know locked up hardward unless you've been in a fish plant with stainless/aluminum that you need to save

Penetrant needs patience,.. spray and come back in an hour for best results

-Don

 

[Cdogman]

I JUST got done doing this, Like 10 minutes ago then found this thread.

[SIZE=14pt]BTW Lake Powell, Thanks for the Rotors.[/SIZE] I miked them and the ones I took off were 50 thou off the ones you gave me... I also need new brake pads but next weekend. Mine are not worn out but they do look as though they have been pretty hot. <_<

I used a Makita 18V Impact driver, Dewalt makes one too.

I took every single one of the bolts out without heat in about 90 seconds. I was using a good allen head on a 3/8" socket attachment for the little guy driver

Now, I rounded one out putting it back in............ Not looking forward to next time.

The down side is these are spendy little tools. I have it for my work so I was lucky

The entire thing took only about 2 beers..errr I mean 45 minutes

 

[Fred W]

Yeah... heat and beat. And make sure the socket has a damn good seat.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Ok, Just my .02 cents here..

The right impact driver and a quality FLAT allen head is key here. Do not use the rounded head styles!!! Also, I highly recommend the use of the chemical loctite freeze remover instead of HEAT!! Heat will definitely loosen the grip of the loctite BUT... It softens the metal, expands the threads and actually requires more Ft-lbs of effort to remove then. I only use heat as a last resort when I do not plan on re-using the fastener.

Just the way I do it.

WW