Datel

At the risk of a dogpile I need to get some ideas where people are hooking up their Datel. I looked at FJR tech and got lots of pics of where to mount the meter and I did the search thing and got more mounting ideas but haven't seen iseas on wiring. I don't see any reason not to go straight to the batt. With that you could see when it is time to hook up the tender.

I don't know what the draw is, but if you do go straight to the bat if would be on all the time and run down the battery if you let the bike sit for a long time. I would suggest an inline switch for it.

I went with a relay and some 12 gauge wire and did the Datel in the Mirror farkle.

I put mine on a relay as well. Relay is triggered by the running lights, switches the Datel directly across the battery. When I bought the bike, the previous owner simply wired it with a manual switch, but I kept hitting the switch when I reached for the key, and finally broke it off.

And now that I have switched power available, I ran a 30-amp fuse to a new terminal strip behind the battery, so I can power up new toys as I add them.

Going straight off the battery is the most ideal approach for the most accurate readings under all conditions, as there is negligible drop in voltage.

However, as Ignacio correctly observes, an inline switch is needed to avoid eventual battery drain.

The relay method Iggy has is the most convenient; I went a slightly different route and have a heavy-duty toggle switch to preclude any further trace amount of voltage drop. Fluke leads applied directly to the battery posts result in identical readings to what the Datel displays, so it's all good.

Next Question. At a 8ma draw how long does it take to drain the batt to a point that it wouldn't start the bike?? I am thinking one hell of a long time.

As I tip-toe in waters I haven't tried before. I read somewhere that a typical motorcycle battery has 20 amp-hours capacity before discharged....or 10 amp-hours before half discharged. That's probably a better figure to use for starting the bike where it probably sounds a bit weak on kickover.

10 amp-hours / .008 amps (the rate you specified converted to amps) / 24 (hours per day) = 52 days until your battery is half discharged.....if my math is right.

8 milliamps seems a pretty small draw.

The 8ma number comes from the Datel web site. I realize a relay is a good way but I am trying to be lazy and avoid a trip to the parts store in the snow and I want tihs done today.

Hook it up direct. IIRC, you use a "Battery Tender" or have one available to top-charge your battery before a trip.

Next time you have the dash off, add a toggle switch on the "ground" side of the Datel, that way you have unimpeded voltage to the meter.

Good idea Mike. I don't have the meter yet and I do have a small weather proof switch. This is all your fault anyway.

FJRay said:

...and I do have a small weather proof switch.

Click to expand...

I realize you already have a switch, but in case anybody's playing along with the home game....the switch and boot cover Warchild uses...and I copied for some other applications....courtesy of Home Depot. Nice positive click and great current flow.

FJRay said:

Good idea Mike. I don't have the meter yet and I do have a small weather proof switch. This is all your fault anyway.

Click to expand...

Are you tryin' to make me feel bad??? :huh:

It's not working! :lol: Besides, a couple of farkles here and there....an update or two...that Classic, Liquid Silver '03 of yours will an object d'arte!

But, but, but... you're going to want a switched 12V power source soon anyway. How are you going to power the heated grips, seat, vest, and all the other farkles? I mean, if you don't have all the farkles, you wouldn't really need the Datel, right?

BTW - I considered the mirror install, but decided in favor of the right side panel ("D" I think) next to my 12V powerlet connector and just to the rear of the battery itself. That also made wiring shorter (a plus) and easier. I put my 12V 30A SPST relay (readily available at auto supply houses and even Radio Shack) in the front faring and secured it to the subframe ahead of the battery. The relay has heavy wires going back to the battery + terminal and separate heavy wires feeding the heated grips, heated seat and Datel. If I add one more farkle I will rewire to include a Blue Sea distribution / fuse panel that I already have sitting on a shelf, but I can't seem to find an ideal place up front for mounting.

Anyway, the point is; Try to keep the runs of large gage wire and as short as possible.

Funny, my Datel/powerlet are just opposite of Bounce's. I ran my Datel thru my switched BlueSea. Might lose something in translation, but I don't think much. On startup I'll usually show 14.1 and on cooler days 14.2.

If you're really careful when cutting you can install the Datel meter in your panel without the raised bezel. I ordered mine intending to install "in the mirror" and so did not order the optional bezel (which is extra). I decided to install it without and see how it looked and then order two bezels (one for the VFR also) if it came out looking bad. Needless to say, I never ordered the bezels:

Isn't it easier to just add passport radar detector. It will not only show you this information but also will tell you where a friendly officer is at :yahoo:

cougar8000 said:

Isn't it easier to just add passport radar detector. It will not only show you this information but also will tell you where a friendly officer is at :yahoo:

Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the passport. Does it display the voltage at all times?

I don't have a radar detector. Don't need one. I drive 10 over with impunity. :lol:

When I was younger and had a RD it gave me a false sense of security that I would be able to avoid tickets. I find that I am better able to avoid tickets by not speeding more than 10 over (very often... except on a closed course). Being observant of other drivers helps too, watching brake lights and such. It works for me, but I'm an old fart. :yes:

Oh the Datel was 39.50 ea. plus shipping. I guess you could use the RD on multiple bikes, but we use both the VFR and FJR simultaneously (son rides the Viffer) so for $86 I had two meters shipped to my door. How much would two RD's go for?

Yes, ti does display voltage all the time if you change its settings. I guess at 39.50 it is cheaper then a radar, but if one already has one or does not want to do new wirring and always wanted a detector, it is a great option.

cougar8000 said:

Yes, ti does display voltage all the time if you change its settings. I guess at 39.50 it is cheaper then a radar, but if one already has one or does not want to do new wirring and always wanted a detector, it is a great option.

Click to expand...

Yup. Good tip.

Here's another option for the truly cheap, but it does require installing a cigarette lighter socket. which is useful for other applications and battery charging during the winter months. Found this at the local Wally world and picked it up for my boat. Comes in handy for monitoring the trolling motor battery level: