Brake / Clutch Fluid Upper Level

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Fullchat

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Hi

The 'Lower Level' for both brake and clutch fluid is clearly marked on their respective reservoir.

Can anyone assist me as to where the Maximum Level is when filling the reservoirs?

Regards

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the replys. I was thinking in terms of the top of the sight glass.

Moving on. Vacuum bleeders seem to be the way to go. My interpretation is that the bleeder is connected, a vacuum created, the bleed nipple opened and the old fluid is sucked out.

Is the brake/clutch lever operated during the process or does the vacuum manage to pull the fluid from the reservoir?

Regards

 
Thanks for the replys. I was thinking in terms of the top of the sight glass.

Moving on. Vacuum bleeders seem to be the way to go. My interpretation is that the bleeder is connected, a vacuum created, the bleed nipple opened and the old fluid is sucked out.

Is the brake/clutch lever operated during the process or does the vacuum manage to pull the fluid from the reservoir?

Regards
My vacuum bleeder pulls it through. You just wait until it's all clean fluid running out and close the bleeder. It functions the same way on my truck. This is a pretty easy service to do.

 
My vacuum bleeder pulls it through. You just wait until it's all clean fluid running out and close the bleeder. It functions the same way on my truck. This is a pretty easy service to do.
I normally "finish" the job the old-fashioned way.

After I get clear fluid, I tighten the nipple and remove the vacuum bleeder, then pressurize with the lever or pedal and bleed each nipple just to make sure there is no air.

I simply don't trust the vacuum connection to be as perfect as closing the nipple under fluid pressure.

 
Be aware with an AE you may get a clutch travel error after using a vacuum bleeder. I believe this may be caused by the slave cylinder piston being retracted by the vacuum. On mine it went away after a couple of key cycles as the piston reset.

 
My vacuum bleeder pulls it through. You just wait until it's all clean fluid running out and close the bleeder. It functions the same way on my truck. This is a pretty easy service to do.
I normally "finish" the job the old-fashioned way.

After I get clear fluid, I tighten the nipple and remove the vacuum bleeder, then pressurize with the lever or pedal and bleed each nipple just to make sure there is no air.

I simply don't trust the vacuum connection to be as perfect as closing the nipple under fluid pressure.
Gunny that.

 
Be aware with an AE you may get a clutch travel error after using a vacuum bleeder. I believe this may be caused by the slave cylinder piston being retracted by the vacuum. On mine it went away after a couple of key cycles as the piston reset.


I couldn't get my vacuum pump to hold a vacuum on my AE either; I just did it the old fashioned way and gravity bled it, takes longer but it's guaranteed to work every time.

 
Be aware with an AE you may get a clutch travel error after using a vacuum bleeder. I believe this may be caused by the slave cylinder piston being retracted by the vacuum. On mine it went away after a couple of key cycles as the piston reset.


I couldn't get my vacuum pump to hold a vacuum on my AE either; I just did it the old fashioned way and gravity bled it, takes longer but it's guaranteed to work every time.
Assuming your MityVac hose is the correct size, the trick for vacume not sealing is to put some wheel bearing grease around the threads of the bleeder fitting. Works like a champ! :yahoo:

 
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