RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Glad the problem is resolved, Pitts...
And tip-of-the-hat to dcarver. He is absolutely giving me the courage to "fess up"....
dcarver IS a dumbass!
Clutch Soak with SH_26
- Thread starter FJRPittsburgh
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
And tip-of-the-hat to dcarver. He is absolutely giving me the courage to "fess up"....
dcarver IS a dumbass!
drdevil44
Well-known member
This thread made me repeat my bleed with teflon tape. While at it I thought I'd change the coolant. Two hours later - that fairing is a PITA. Went out and bought a funnel just to avoid taking front section off.
This thread made me repeat my bleed with teflon tape. While at it I thought I'd change the coolant. Two hours later - that fairing is a PITA. Went out and bought a funnel just to avoid taking front section off.
This thread made me repeat my bleed with teflon tape. While at it I thought I'd change the coolant. Two hours later - that fairing is a PITA. Went out and bought a funnel just to avoid taking front section off.
I hope you liked the Teflon tape bleed. I've been doing this on all of my new vehicles (the first time) and it makes the Miti-Vac work a lot better. There may be a better product for sealing those threads, but I always have Teflon tape around the house.
FJRPittsburgh
Rally Addict
Looks like this thread is making you repeat a lot of things.
Notice any difference while bleeding after the teflon wrap? It made a huge difference for me. I almost sucked the nipple off the end of end of the hydraulic line. Well... the mitey vac did (ya know what I mean).
Did the bleed make any difference in the shifting for you?
Jeff
FJRPittsburgh
Rally Addict
Thanks Howie. I think I lost 3 years from my life when my bike wouldn't shift anymore. Although not the extent of the work you had to do to Frankenbike. :banghead:Glad the problem is resolved, Pitts...
And tip-of-the-hat to dcarver. He is absolutely giving me the courage to "fess up"....
dcarver IS a dumbass!
I'm sure dcarver thanks you also......
Jeff
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
Donal
Well-known member
Speedbleeder sell bottles of the product they use clicky here and scroll down. I have heard of people using heavy grease. Using tape in any hydraulic system is generally regarded as a no-no!
Don
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Buh-buh-but...it's not being used "in" a hydraulic system...it's being used "outside" of a hydraulic system, ain't it???Using tape in any hydraulic system is generally regarded as a no-no!
Don
Yeah, that is my take on it Howie. The tape isn't sealing the hydraulic system. The tapered tip of the bleed screw engaging the likewise tapered seat is where the seal is. The Teflon tape is only in use during the bleeding. I don't see how this could possibly harm anything.Buh-buh-but...it's not being used "in" a hydraulic system...it's being used "outside" of a hydraulic system, ain't it???Using tape in any hydraulic system is generally regarded as a no-no!
Don
So how does the tape work long term? Do you end up having to reapply it every few bleed sessions?
I've always just smeared wheel bearing grease around the nipple when bleeding vehicles, but that requires grease removal when done and reapplication the next time.
Seems to hold up pretty good. I only do my brakes every two years or so, and haven't had to reapply the tape (yet). It is a little messy when you need to tape the bleeder, but so would applying the red stuff from Speed Bleeders.
With a vacuum pump, as long as you maintain suction the entire time that the bleeder is cracked open, you are never really in danger of introducing any air through the leaking threads. It's just so you can visually see when the air is completely out of the lines.
With a vacuum pump, as long as you maintain suction the entire time that the bleeder is cracked open, you are never really in danger of introducing any air through the leaking threads. It's just so you can visually see when the air is completely out of the lines.
StephanM
Well-known member
Holy S**** am I ever glad I found this thread!
My heart sank when the bike wouldn't start (got the SH_26 error code) after the clutch soak today.
It may be an old thread but it sure is still relevant.
I just bought a 2007 FJR AE with 24000km. It was dangerously jerky when going from stop when cold. The plates were indeed fully dry, many of them completely stuck together.
It's late and my heart is too bummed out to go try what I've learned here; but at least I'll be able to sleep now.
Thanks for sharing guys!!
My heart sank when the bike wouldn't start (got the SH_26 error code) after the clutch soak today.
It may be an old thread but it sure is still relevant.
I just bought a 2007 FJR AE with 24000km. It was dangerously jerky when going from stop when cold. The plates were indeed fully dry, many of them completely stuck together.
It's late and my heart is too bummed out to go try what I've learned here; but at least I'll be able to sleep now.
Thanks for sharing guys!!
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
I presume you've got the clutch apart and not yet put it together, just take care on assembly that you get things in the right order.
I don't know if you've seen my post on my experience, it might help.
StephanM
Well-known member
The clutch is reassembled.
Now, to do the clutch line bleed. Could you tell where to find the clutch fluid reservoir on the AE? I've got the whole left side open and I don't see it.
Thanks
Now, to do the clutch line bleed. Could you tell where to find the clutch fluid reservoir on the AE? I've got the whole left side open and I don't see it.
Thanks
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
You are discouraged from posting the same query in two places, however I will repeat in case you have forgotten where you posted:
Under the rear left side panel.
(Click on image for larger view)
Check your owner's manual. If you've not got one, download it from Yamaha's web site, the USA one is here, for the Canadian one you need to go through a rigmarole starting here.
StephanM
Well-known member
Thanks for the info Mcatrophy.
I neglected to provide an update, so here it is. The bike is now in good working order, but it took more work than expected. Not an issue if you've read this thread, but scary when you're not on the know.
It took 2 tries to reassemble the clutch correctly. Thanks to this thread for links and pictures
Then got the error code. That's when I panicked. Lost a night's sleep, but all was well after the clutch line bleed. Judging by the dark brown sludge that cam out, it was sorely needed.
I had found the clutch fluid reservoir behind the left panel, but had dismissed it because it was so small. Using the MightyVac didn't work for me because I couldn't get a good airtight suction. What did work well was using the ignition to let the internal pump build pressure. So the process was:
1. Turn ignition to ON
2. open bleed valve
3. close bleed valve
4. tuen ognotion OFF then ON again
5. aftern 3 times, refill reservoir
6. repeat many more times until you see clear fluid coming out.
The first test drive was a bit disappointing, but the smoothness quickly improved after going through all the grears a few times.
Very happy with the results, and it was definitely needed.
The only issue that did not get fixed is the cluck going from neutral into 1st gear. I don't know what to do about that.
I neglected to provide an update, so here it is. The bike is now in good working order, but it took more work than expected. Not an issue if you've read this thread, but scary when you're not on the know.
It took 2 tries to reassemble the clutch correctly. Thanks to this thread for links and pictures
Then got the error code. That's when I panicked. Lost a night's sleep, but all was well after the clutch line bleed. Judging by the dark brown sludge that cam out, it was sorely needed.
I had found the clutch fluid reservoir behind the left panel, but had dismissed it because it was so small. Using the MightyVac didn't work for me because I couldn't get a good airtight suction. What did work well was using the ignition to let the internal pump build pressure. So the process was:
1. Turn ignition to ON
2. open bleed valve
3. close bleed valve
4. tuen ognotion OFF then ON again
5. aftern 3 times, refill reservoir
6. repeat many more times until you see clear fluid coming out.
The first test drive was a bit disappointing, but the smoothness quickly improved after going through all the grears a few times.
Very happy with the results, and it was definitely needed.
The only issue that did not get fixed is the cluck going from neutral into 1st gear. I don't know what to do about that.
FJRPittsburgh
Rally Addict
It's just the nature of the beast. Don't be concerned about the the 1st gear engagement clunk.
I am concerned about the way your bled the clutch line. Check the level in your clutch reservoir. After filling it the way you did and going through the gears until it smoothed out, I would think the fluid has worked itself in where it should be leaving the clutch reservoir low. Please check it and let us know the result. Your honest description will be helpful to others in the future. Thanks and congrats on getting her back on the road. AE's are the best.
Last edited by a moderator:
StephanM
Well-known member
Thanks for the heads-up. I'll check.
StephanM
Well-known member
Just checked, and happy to report level is good.
Like many of you, the clutch drag had become progressively worse lately on my 07 FJR with over 90K. The clutch handle cam has always been in position one. I have bled the clutch several times over the years without problems. This time, I bled the clutch several different ways just to make sure the tiny bubbles were out: regular, gravity, pressure, power vacuum bleeder(operates off120 psi) while tapping on master and slave cylinder. Had a good solid feel before and after, so no difference.
The clutch soak was a waste of time. Didn't help.
I then looked at the clutch handle-master cylinder rod wear, which had some looseness. Instead of purchasing a new handle, I cut a piece of sheet metal 1/4" x 1/2" x .040 thick(around 20 ga). I bent the sheet metal at approx. 45 degree angle, pushed the spring loaded clutch handle forward and jammed the sheet metal between the clutch handle cam and the handle for a longer master cylinder stroke. Cured the drag!!! Fixed now for a couple of months. Longer stroke is always better
The clutch soak was a waste of time. Didn't help.
I then looked at the clutch handle-master cylinder rod wear, which had some looseness. Instead of purchasing a new handle, I cut a piece of sheet metal 1/4" x 1/2" x .040 thick(around 20 ga). I bent the sheet metal at approx. 45 degree angle, pushed the spring loaded clutch handle forward and jammed the sheet metal between the clutch handle cam and the handle for a longer master cylinder stroke. Cured the drag!!! Fixed now for a couple of months. Longer stroke is always better
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