Craftsman Torque Wrench

[caryb]

Just bought my first torque wrench, a craftsman with the torgue adjustment in the handle.

I have a couple of quick questions about these wrenchs now.

1. Can you assume that it is correctly calibrated when you purchase it?
2. How much can you use it before you need to recalibrate it if ever?
3. If it does at some point need to be calibrated, how do you do it?

Thanks,
CaryB

 

[Scab]

1. yes

2. dunno

3. dunno

 

[ionbeam]

Here is one set of answers, there are many correct answers:

1. Yes, assume it is calibrated.

2. To stave off the need for frequent calibration -- always return the wrench to the minimum setting when done; don't use it as a breaker bar or pry bar; don't drop (duh!); pull smoothly; the torque wrench is supposed to tighten nuts and bolts, but it is not the best tool to break hardware free -- see warning about using it as a breaker bar. Once you start regularly stripping nuts and bolts it is probably time for calibration

3. Return the wrench to Sears for calibration, for the same cost as a new wrench and a 2-4 week wait the wrench will come back with confirmation of calibration. That doesn't imply they actually calibrated it, many times it just a verification.

 

[Charlie Hoss]

Yes, it is calibrated as well as it can be for a non laboratory tool. I don't think it can be recalibrated by a consumer. Don't think it needs to be any more accurate for what it is used for.

 

[abarron576]

Is the wrench one that clicks or does it have a scale on it? As someone else mentioned NEVER use it as a break over or cheater bar. A quick calibration check can be made against another wrench that is "fresh" or of better quality by making a fitting with two 1/2 inch sockets and checking readings against each other. I'm sure you know, but when using a torque wrench, do not go to the max torque on one pass, but use several "go arounds" to get even torque all the way around.

 

[SkooterG]

No more Craftsman torque wrenches for me. I have had two of their pricey model go bad.

As for calibration, you are supposed to get them calibrated every once in a while. How, I don't know. I know I wonder about the calibration of mine, as it sure seems to make things really tight. Of course, you need to be careful if any kind of lube/grease are on the bolts and adjust accordingly. (SWAG)

I am saving my pennies for a nice Snap-On torque wrench. Pricey bastards.

 

[05fjrman]

That's alot of pennies Skooter!

 

[radman]

Calibrate as often as you feel needed. Old rule of thumb was every 5 years, more if used often, or if dead on accurate cal was critical (race motors, industrial). Snap On or Mac truck salesmen can have it done, regardless of brand, makes for a sales tool for them, or google it. Local tool sales outlets (example: Delegard Tool) can also do them.

 

[Barabus]

Any metrology lab will do it. Same as calibrating micrometers and calipers and such.

 

[FJRay]

I just bought a MAC 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench and it set me back just over 200.00 so save lots of pennies. It is a great tool but they don't supply the vasilene or the condom.

 

[Pierre]

Calibration, this, I could talk about no problem

New tool does not mean that it is properly calibrated , it should, but a lot of time their out of specifications.

You need to have it check depending on your use, aircraft company every 3 months, truck, bus and other once a year, personal uses,

once every two or three years.

Verification + calibration + calibration certificate $ 75.00 cnd, up to 1000 ft pound

We use torque wrench calibrator to check them.

Impossible to recalibrate a torque when you have no experience.

But you could send it to me, I'll do the verification for free, I don't believe u need a certificate...

 

[v65]

I am have been happy so far with my precision instruments split beam wrench, got it off from ebay for $130.

 

[FlyingLow]

I've owned my click-style Sears and Roebuck torquer for at least 20 years, never had it calibrated, never had a problem, though it doesn't get used all that much. Suffice to say, its never been near my FJR. What little wrenching I've done on this bike [wheel removals, brake calipers, oil plug [!!!] and such] I've used the calibrated wrist method, no problemo.

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

I have a friend who has raced all his life and wrenched his own bikes. He is remarkably close w/o a torque wrench. He only uses one on critical parts.

 

[huk finn]

Just bought my first torque wrench, a craftsman with the torgue adjustment in the handle.
[*]Can you assume that it is correctly calibrated when you purchase it?

NO,,,, I was trying to teach my kid how to change the tranny filter in his car. It was time to put it back together,,,I had a brand new craftsman, never used, set it for 12 lbs,,, handed it to him & told him to put the pan bolts back in. He snapped first one off (again at 12 lbs setting) !!! It never clicked/ released

No dont trust them!!!

 

[Zodiac]

Just bought my first torque wrench, a craftsman with the torgue adjustment in the handle.
[*]Can you assume that it is correctly calibrated when you purchase it?

NO,,,, I was trying to teach my kid how to change the tranny filter in his car. It was time to put it back together,,,I had a brand new craftsman, never used, set it for 12 lbs,,, handed it to him & told him to put the pan bolts back in. He snapped first one off (again at 12 lbs setting) !!! It never clicked/ released

No dont trust them!!!

Ditto here! Took two new out of the box back to the store! Tried them on my cars lug nut at 10 lbs and they never clicked! Just kept torqueing the bolt!

 

[ionbeam]

Ditto here! Took two new out of the box back to the store! Tried them on my cars lug nut at 10 lbs and they never clicked! Just kept torqueing the bolt!

There is a little technique you need to learn to get the wrench to click. Once you figure out how to get the wrench to click it will always click in the same place. Put a bolt & nut in a vice, set the wrench on the lower 1/3 of the scale and play with it.

I had to have my first Craftsman wrench calibrated after the first 15 years of use. About a year later I broke the ratchet head. My second wrench is still good after 10 years. I have access to a calibration tester so I can keep track of the wrench's performance. I can get real close by hand too, years and years of practice on cars and bikes

 

[ceddec]

I inherited a moderate priced one from my dad's shop when he passed away. Torque can be tested using length times the pull force, at least for non-critical applications. I put the thing in a vice and first pull or three, no clicky then it freed up. I put a load scale (good fish scale might work) in the loop on the handle and pulled perpendicular to the handle until it clicked, recorded the pull load and it checked out pretty close. Length of handle in feet (or inches, whatever) times the scale weight reading, hence ft-lbs. I checked several readings at increasing pull loads up to about 30 ft-lbs and they match within 1 ft-lb or less. Of course I'm assuming my scale was about right. I checked it against another scale and some known weights (a bag of potatoes will work) they were fairly close so it’s close enough for what I do. I always do this little test before using the wrench for ease of mind.

 

[black mamba]

I bought a Snap-On, fully electronic, model recently. They quarantee it to be calibrated correctly when delivered. The sales rep stated that having it calibrated was very dependent upon how it is used....critical uses ( aircraft maintenance, etc. ) combined with frequent use may require calibration as often as monthly. A yearly calibration would probably be OK for most " normal " use patterns. In my case ( infrequent use of a non-critical nature ), the rep said I could probably go for a couple years before needing to check it. DON'T drop it and DON'T use it as a breaker bar.

Damn thing cost me about $300.00. It occupies a special place in the garrage....wrapped in it's own little blanket. I check every now and then to see if it needs food or water.