Cruise Control re-occurring issue

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CollingsBob

CFR2022 Rally Chair, Certified JB Welder
Joined
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Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
The abs/cruise control etc sensor on the back wheel keeps getting water & sand in it which stops the cruise control from working. I hose it off with brake cleaner, slather it with silicone dialectric grease..and the next time I ride on a wet gravel road It happens again. Should I be putting a non-setting gasket sealant on the face?

 
The abs/cruise control etc sensor on the back wheel keeps getting water & sand in it which stops the cruise control from working. I hose it off with brake cleaner, slather it with silicone dialectric grease..and the next time I ride on a wet gravel road It happens again. Should I be putting a non-setting gasket sealant on the face?
Does your speedometer continue to work ok? That uses the same speed sensor.

One possible cause could be the rear brake pedal seizing sufficiently so that its switch remains on, this can cause the ABS system to complain. Not unlikely considering the roads you describe. Check that the pedal returns freely when released. If not, lubricating the pedal pivot should free it.

For what it's worth, dirt and/or moisture is most unlikely to prevent the wheel sensor from working, it is purely magnetic in its operation. (Unless your sand includes iron filings, of course.)

 
I agree with mcatrophy regarding the sensor and the distinct possibility that your rear brake arm needs to be removed and the pivot cleaned and greased.  The other possibility is that the brake switch itself is dirty, water is getting in or is not adjusted right.

Are you actually getting sand and water in the sensor?  I haven't seen that happen to mine but mine is a Gen II and doesn't have cruise.

 
I agree with mcatrophy regarding the sensor and the distinct possibility that your rear brake arm needs to be removed and the pivot cleaned and greased.  The other possibility is that the brake switch itself is dirty, water is getting in or is not adjusted right.

Are you actually getting sand and water in the sensor?  I haven't seen that happen to mine but mine is a Gen II and doesn't have cruise.
There was sand & crap in there the first time, the second time rather less so. I guess I’m going to try again to get the rear brake arm off..I’ve tried holding a soldering iron on the bolts and an impact driver with no luck..

 
The "sand" might have been aluminum oxide.  The parts will corrode if moisture gets in.  If you have never removed the brake arm, you are past due.  Once a year is about right unless you ride a lot in wet conditions.   

 
There was sand & crap in there the first time, the second time rather less so. I guess I’m going to try again to get the rear brake arm off..I’ve tried holding a soldering iron on the bolts and an impact driver with no luck..
Form another forum:

Cute trick- shop around for a Weller propane soldering iron. Dig deep enough and you'll find one or two kits that come with small flame nozzles. Think of it like a pencil-sized propane torch. perfect for what you needed.

Look at this one example ->
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/W ... gLOavD_BwE

on the handle is the small solder-er. Bottom right, top to bottom is large solder-er and 2 sizes of flame tips. Little cans of propane refill are available at AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc. Nothing special there.

 
... mine is a Gen II and doesn't have cruise.
Speed sensor is the same on Gen 2 and Gen 3 (there was a change in supplier during Gen 2 production, but the mounting arrangement is identical).

To be clear, it's the brake pedal lever seizing that causes this issue, not the brake control arm.

Simple lubrication of the brake pedal can be done in situ, run WD40 through it to clean it, then you can use engine oil or the like, keep operating the lever to move the oil along the pivot. For best results, remove it and use a waterproof grease.

 
To be clear, it's the brake pedal lever seizing that causes this issue, not the brake control arm.
That is what I meant and in retrospect what I said was subject to misinterpretation.  Yes, the pivot for the brake pedal is what I was referring to.

I have used a squirt of WD40 on the pivot when on a trip - not on the FJR but on a Yamaha Venture motorcycle with a very similar arrangement.  It loosens things up and gets you going but is no substitute for doing it right.  

 
Form another forum:

Cute trick- shop around for a Weller propane soldering iron. Dig deep enough and you'll find one or two kits that come with small flame nozzles. Think of it like a pencil-sized propane torch. perfect for what you needed.

Look at this one example ->
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/W ... gLOavD_BwE

on the handle is the small solder-er. Bottom right, top to bottom is large solder-er and 2 sizes of flame tips. Little cans of propane refill are available at AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc. Nothing special there.
Butane soldering iron ordered from Home Depot...waiting to be told its ready for contactless pickup..Thanks for the tip!

 
5 minutes each with the butane soldering iron got all 5 screws on the shift lever side loosened...RED LOCTITE???
I remember those being a little hard to break loose the first time but I don't remember red Loctite??  Never needed heat.

(I used blue when I put mine back together and never had any issues with them loosening.)

 
Yes...Thanks for the tip. Stop in next time your in my area for a scotch
What a nice offer.

706a9ceab8759a779acff4997e217056.jpg


 
Someone is a bit confused between "scotch" and "Scots". But that's no bad thing.

 
I had the rear brake lever pivot gunk up and such on my '05.   My '14 now has a zerk fitting in the pivot shaft, because, ya know, I like those things. 

 
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