Datel Install Location Inquiry

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For those of you using the voltage display in the radar detector. How close are the readings to the datel. I am just replacing a couple panels and don't know that I want to cut holes. The mirror mount is cool but I'm to lazy
The one in my escort passport RD is pretty far off when compared to the Datel (always reading low, but by various amounts). For one thing the RD isn't tied directly to the battery, but rather comes it is wired off a relay-switched distribution power panel with other devices wired to it, so even if the meter was good, it wouldn't be an accurate representation of what's actually happening at the battery. But I also doubt the accuracy of those meters even without the above.

 
I got a similar one (not datel) while I haven't mounted it yet...its blue...that thing looks like it might be a torch at night. Dark Knight is yours annoying at night?
I just finished the install this past weekend so I have not been out yet at night. I did notice while sitting on the bike in my garage there was some blue glare on the edge of the shield. I have my winter shield on right now so once the summer stock shield goes back on it might not reflect as much or at all, I'll have to get back to ya on the glare...if it does I will install an inline switch to give me the option to turn it off if I choose.

 
My Passport radar detector usually read about .3v high. So I eventually went to the Datel.

I didn't want to deal with the PITA of the Datel's wiring every time I removed the D panel so I mounted mine in the upper right fairing with a small on/off switch.

Datel4.jpg


I haven't mounted one on my Gen II yet. Not sure where I am going to put it.

 
Noob question - last time I checked (2004), these meters were significantly less than $50; now I can't find them for any less than $50. Is there a source for lower cost meters?
Thanks,

Will
Here's a link to the guy I bought from

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130803369723?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

$20 delivered, calibrated, waterproof and shockproof

Shipping was fast, the meter works fine. I got a blue one and am unsure if it will be to bright.

 
I just finished the install this past weekend so I have not been out yet at night. I did notice while sitting on the bike in my garage there was some blue glare on the edge of the shield. I have my winter shield on right now so once the summer stock shield goes back on it might not reflect as much or at all, I'll have to get back to ya on the glare...if it does I will install an inline switch to give me the option to turn it off if I choose.
I am considering a 3 position switch, off switched and on. I'll have to use a diode to keep from energizing anything else when I want a bike off voltage check.

 
That's a great deal, Chuck. Nice lead.

For the switching, I had wrestled with the isolation thing too, but found that by switching on and off the ground side of the meter I could eliminate any unwanted back feeding of other devices. The meter's (fused) hot lead comes directly from the battery and I have a 12V relay on the ground side with an ignition switched 12V trigger signal. The extra switch just supplies the ground to the meter anytime I switch it on (goes around the relay).

I don't have a means to turn the meter off when the bike is on, but having the Red LED version I've never considered wanting to do that. It is not the least bit distracting.

 
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The only time my Datel has been distracting was when it was reading 9.2 volts while my engine was turning 3.5k rpm and I had no electrical load beyond the normal FJR systems. Damn Electrosport stators. At least I was close to home. FWIW, the FJR's ignition coils seem to operate at that low voltage.

 
That's a great deal, Chuck. Nice lead.
For the switching, I had wrestled with the isolation thing too, but found that by switching on and off the ground side of the meter I could eliminate any unwanted back feeding of other devices. The meter's (fused) hot lead comes directly from the battery and I have a 12V relay on the ground side with an ignition switched 12V trigger signal. The extra switch just supplies the ground to the meter anytime I switch it on (goes around the relay).

I don't have a means to turn the meter off when the bike is on, but having the Red LED version I've never considered wanting to do that. It is not the least bit distracting.
Duhhhh...I don't know why I didn't consider ground switching...Great idea Fred!

Is the Red meter ever to dim?

 
That's a great deal, Chuck. Nice lead.

For the switching, I had wrestled with the isolation thing too, but found that by switching on and off the ground side of the meter I could eliminate any unwanted back feeding of other devices. The meter's (fused) hot lead comes directly from the battery and I have a 12V relay on the ground side with an ignition switched 12V trigger signal. The extra switch just supplies the ground to the meter anytime I switch it on (goes around the relay).

I don't have a means to turn the meter off when the bike is on, but having the Red LED version I've never considered wanting to do that. It is not the least bit distracting.
Duhhhh...I don't know why I didn't consider ground switching...Great idea Fred!
Is the Red meter ever to dim?
Or switch the live side with the relay/switch.

DVM_Switching_2.jpg


It would probably make sense to have a sprung-off switch so that you can't leave it on accidentally.

 
That's a great deal, Chuck. Nice lead.
For the switching, I had wrestled with the isolation thing too, but found that by switching on and off the ground side of the meter I could eliminate any unwanted back feeding of other devices. The meter's (fused) hot lead comes directly from the battery and I have a 12V relay on the ground side with an ignition switched 12V trigger signal. The extra switch just supplies the ground to the meter anytime I switch it on (goes around the relay).

I don't have a means to turn the meter off when the bike is on, but having the Red LED version I've never considered wanting to do that. It is not the least bit distracting.
Duhhhh...I don't know why I didn't consider ground switching...Great idea Fred!

Is the Red meter ever to dim?
Yes, in direct, bright sunlight the red LEDs can be a bit tough to read without shading the meter with a hand. But I suspect the same would be true of any colored LED, and LCD is even worse that way.

I can't recall exactly why I decided to switch the ground side of the meter, but I know it had something to do with backfeeding other devices. mcatrophy's diagram looks like it should work fine, but I remember that I went away from that configuration for some reason. CRS is a horrible thing to have. I'll have to search some old threads and see if I can figure it out.

 
I've never seen another FJR with the volt meter installed where I have them, so thought I'd add to the options...

I first installed my Datel and matching thermometer here (2003 exclusive location!):

Temp+and+Voltages+Meters.jpg


Decided that the handlebar was in the way more than I liked so relocated them here:

Voltage+Temp.jpg


 
Both locations are nicely done! But -- my '04 (and later year FJRs) has/have a glove box in one location and I have power TB strips behind the dash panels where you have the other meters located. If I were to do it over again I might consider your dash panel install.

 
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Noob question - last time I checked (2004), these meters were significantly less than $50; now I can't find them for any less than $50. Is there a source for lower cost meters?
Thanks,

Will
Here's a link to the guy I bought from

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130803369723?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

$20 delivered, calibrated, waterproof and shockproof

Shipping was fast, the meter works fine. I got a blue one and am unsure if it will be to bright.
Fancy - thanks. Ordering one up now!

 
On my GenII the Datel is installed in the removable square panel where the OE grip heater control goes. Lotsa liquid rubber underneath. To the rear of that I have a BMW jack for heated clothing and to the rear of that two HeatTrollers (one for aftermarket grip heat and one for the BMW jack). Adequate room there, but you need to cut wires to length after considering fitment and insulation. PITA but have had no problems.

 
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