Datel Install

[LAF]

Well I am at a loss and cant figure out what is going on.

I installed the Datel and I have never seen it go over 14.00, no matter how hard I run it, no matter what gear or RPM.

With the 50W Moto Lights on I run at 13.25 or so. Off 13.98 or so. Gerbings older jacket liner, pants liner, and gloves run at 13.25 Yesterday I said bag it and ran it all and was seeing 12.98 to 13.10. Moto Lights, and heated gear.

I have a FuzeBlock in the tail that has it's own relay and of course the Moto Lights have a relay.

I have been fussing over this since I installed the Datel and am a bit concerned I have not seen the posted output and never have seen 14.20.

Could I have a bad or going bad battery that will not accept what the charging system is willing to put out?

I had hijacked a Stator Thread but thought I should start a new thread for help.

I can say the Cfraftsman Volt Meter reads .08 higher then the Datel.

I am going to check the FuzeBlock to see what fuse I have set to run hot all the time. I dont think I have any, but will check to be sure.

I am very concerned at this point as from what has been posted I should see 14.20 with nothing on, if I read correctly.

This is a 10 with Moto Lights, AddMore Lighting in the Givi, Power Commander, GPS Hardwire Mount, and an outlet in the tank bag that runs USB items, IPod, and and a MixIt amp.

I have ordered the high output LEDS from Moto Light to replace the 50w that are in there now.

I am concerned that either I have a battery that wont take a charge from my bike or enough draw to not allow the bike to give 14.20?

Any thoughts?

 

[SkooterG]

Datel should be run directly to the battery.

Buy a cheap Digital Voltmeter and check/verify readings.

 

[LAF]

Datel should be run directly to the battery.

Buy a cheap Digital Voltmeter and check/verify readings.

Datel is on the battery.

I have a Craftsman Volt Meter that is new and it reads .08 higher. Not sure how I could ride and test with it.

ionbeam had me do a recovery test leaving lights on and the battery did recover.

After sitting all night it reads 12.88 or so. That is in 25 degree weather.

 

[ionbeam]

...Could I have a bad or going bad battery that will not accept what the charging system is willing to put out?

I can say the Cfraftsman Volt Meter reads .08 higher then the Datel...

Any thoughts?

Datel should be run directly to the battery.

Buy a cheap Digital Voltmeter and check/verify readings.

I would say that he does indeed have a cheap volt meter. Much of the questions were discussed HERE.

 

[JamesK]

I have a Datel and even with a new Stator and RR I can't see more than 13.7 or so, no matter what the load. My Datel is wired via a miniature relay which connects it directly to the Battery. Btw, this is with a new Shorai 18A installed. The only standard load is the HID headlights, Addmore LEDs in the E52 Givi and and a few small electronic gadgets like a Zumo and a X50 RD.

 

[LAF]

...Could I have a bad or going bad battery that will not accept what the charging system is willing to put out?

I can say the Cfraftsman Volt Meter reads .08 higher then the Datel...

Any thoughts?

Datel should be run directly to the battery.

Buy a cheap Digital Voltmeter and check/verify readings.

I would say that he does indeed have a cheap volt meter. Much of the questions were discussed HERE.

While the .08 difference from the Datel and my Cheap Craftsman are a point, not too much of a difference for me to worry about.

And I did do my best to answer your questions in the mentioned thread it still leaves me where I am, never seeing over 14.00 on the Datel. I guess what I am asking is what should I do next?

It is going to 50 tomorrow so I could pull body panels off to check the other points just not sure where they are or what procedure to use to do it? Bike running I would assume? I guess I just need pointed to the next test point from the battery to check voltage there?

Don's mean to bug or pester but it has me concerned and I am lost on this part of electrics. Also since it is in the low 40's when I am riding does this affect anything? I mean the day I did the battery test for you it was 30 something out.

Just trying to get a handle on this as it bugs me not seeing over 14.00, ever.

 

[ionbeam]

LAF and JamesK need to go to the R/R and measure the output by back-probing the Red and Black #12 wires leaving the R/R. The voltage at the R/R should be 14.2 volts or higher.

Back-probe = in Fred W words: You have to "back probe" the connector. What this entails is slipping something thin, like a needle or paper clip, in the connector body from the back (accessible) end to touch the metal contact surfaces inside, then clip your meter leads to those pins.

 

I use clip leads like this:

to connect to the back-probe pins.

 

[wfooshee]

Try removing the relay and hook the Datel up to the battery without it, just to see. Funky relay contact might drop a bit of voltage, maybe.

FWIW My Datel is connected the same, negative is directly on the battery, positive goes to a relay which goes to the battery. Relay is triggered by a switched circuit. Relay is a decent-quality automotive type. I see 14.2 regularly, stock lights plus GPS, nothing else extra on the bike.

 

[ionbeam]

At 13 mA the current draw of the Datel is so low that something would really have to be wrong to cause much of a voltage drop. Even 200 Ω would result in only a ~2.5 volt drop in reading.

 

[LAF]

Thank you ionbeam for your help. Not trying to drive you crazy just trying to make sense of all this.

I guess my only question is what the hell is R/R? Regulator Relay, Rectifier Relay, rots of ruck?

I have no clue!

 

[John d]

Thank you ionbeam for your help. Not trying to drive you crazy just trying to make sense of all this.

I guess my only question is what the hell is R/R? Regulator Relay, Rectifier Relay, rots of ruck?

I have no clue!

R/R would be regulator rectifier.

 

[RaYzerman19]

You don't mention that the battery has been fully charged, bike started (starting action will drain down the battery a tad), then run down the road at RPM's somewhere around 3k or higher for say 20 minutes. This will recharge the battery to full capacity and the voltage from the charging system may then be 14.2. However, you may have a "Datel" that is reading low on its tolerance band and may only get 14.1, at which time, I wouldn't worry about it at all. I am assuming you have it hooked directly to the battery as you say, but mine is hooked into my fuse panel on a switched circuit with a 16 ga. wire. I might see a blip to 14.2 once in a while, but usually 14.1 with no accessories on. But, you could be chasing something that is nothing.... is 14.0 really something to worry about? I recommend back-probing the RR as the learned gents have suggested, and that will be your max voltage I would think. If it's 14.0, you have your answer. Maybe you have a slightly different stator/RR tolerance stack. Then go into your fridge, have a nice cold beer and call it a day, but just ride, keep monitoring as you are for any changes.

 

[ionbeam]

You don't mention that the battery has been fully charged...But, you could be chasing something that is nothing...go into your fridge, have a nice cold beer and call it a day, but just ride, keep monitoring as you are for any changes.

I had LAF do a full battery charge then perform a load test and perform a battery recovery check which his battery passed with flying colors. I also gave a list of areas where the missing volts may be going but recommended that he do the battery test first. Now that we know that the battery is good we need the Rectifier/Regulator voltage.

 

[Constant Mesh]

I have an inexpensive Craftsman digital multimeter. For DC volts its listed accuracy is +- (0.5% reading + 2 digits).

For an indicated 14 volts the actual value would be in the range of 13.91 to 14.09 using the meter's 20 volt scale. That's not too bad. Some of the cheap meters list an accuracy based on % of scale rather than % of reading. Obviously % of reading is better.

If you're using a Datel with 0.1 volt resolution, my Craftsman meter would provide a comparable reading.

The return (ground) bus problems with the Gen II bikes could obviously affect the voltage measured at the battery. One should check the voltage at the output terminals of the R/R to verify how well the charging system is working.

 

[HotRodZilla]

How's about you take that stupid thing off your bike and go back to riding without worrying about every single drop of voltage. Your bike ran fine before you added the Datel, and it runs fine now. Right?? I would bet there's nothing wrong. Maybe you got a bad one, or maybe something's just not reading right.

Screw it...Go ride already.

 

[huron52]

How's about you take that stupid thing off your bike and go back to riding without worrying about every single drop of voltage. Your bike ran fine before you added the Datel, and it runs fine now. Right?? I would bet there's nothing wrong. Maybe you got a bad one, or maybe something's just not reading right.

Screw it...Go ride already.

I think AJ has got it!

 

[LAF]

You don't mention that the battery has been fully charged...But, you could be chasing something that is nothing...go into your fridge, have a nice cold beer and call it a day, but just ride, keep monitoring as you are for any changes.

I had LAF do a full battery charge then perform a load test and perform a battery recovery check which his battery passed with flying colors. I also gave a list of areas where the missing volts may be going but recommended that he do the battery test first. Now that we know that the battery is good we need the Rectifier/Regulator voltage.

Will try for R/R voltage tomorrow. Need to follow this through now just to see what the outcome is.

 

[LAF]

Interesting i go to boats.net to look up the R/R on a blow up parts fish and it says it is obsolete.

Part 19

On to the FM.

 

[rfulcher]

Interesting topic, the Datel on my 07 also tends to reads a max of 13.9 volts. When the bike was newer I would see 14.2 volts. I also use a small relay to read the voltage off of the battery. I do have a "couple" of things connected to the battery terminals, including the Brody harness and the Power Commander III, maybe they cause a false reading. I don't have time to check it this week but maybe on Sunday I can check things out.

I will be watching this thread.