Fjr stuck brakes

[06fjrrider]

Thankd for all help guys. It looks like i am rebuilding the calipers, i tried cleaning them with no luck. The pistons are really slow to push out and almost impossible to push in... my next question is is there a good place to pick up seal kits? I set up an order through cheap cycle parts only to find out that they are on back order. I also called my local dealership with similar results.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

"We are having a communication breakdown here. I am talking about the saddle bolt that connects the hydraulic line to the caliper. If you are going to take that off you don't want the lever tied back to the handlebar. That would put pressure on the line. I guess I am just confused"...



Sorry, I misunderstood.

I would strongly recommend pulling that saddle bolt and removing the calipers. Just simply to keep brake fliud off the rest of the bike. If using an air compressor, fluid will be flying. I keep a very wet with water rag) handy to wipe the bike should fluid splatter on it..

The lever trick, is done WITH the caliper OFF the bike (that's again, how I understand it to work but have never done it)...

 

[06fjrrider]

I will try the lever trick when i go to rebuild them and let you all know how it works.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thank for all help guys. It looks like i am rebuilding the calipers, i tried cleaning them with no luck. The pistons are really slow to push out and almost impossible to push in... my next question is is there a good place to pick up seal kits? I set up an order through cheap cycle parts only to find out that they are on back order. I also called my local dealership with similar results.

I found it the cheapest to buy at Partzilla or any similar on-line (check prices AND SHIPPING). It was considerably cheaper than the dealer (maybe 25%?)

https://www.partzilla.com/

https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/#/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts

https://www.bikebandit.com/

If they are back ordered EVERYWHERE, I have, on this FZ, pulled them apart, cleaned, used brake specific grease on the seals (yes the grease is made for the seals). I got another 9 months or so before they started dragging bad again.

They weren't back ordered, I just wanted to try clean, grease, etc. There's nothing like new seals...

Got to do an do over (and more experiance R&Ring!)

 

[Donal]

As I understand it, the 'lever trick' is carried out with everything in it's normal position. The whole purpose is to apply pressure to the system for a long period (say overnight). The pressure compresses any air bubbles in the system making them much smaller and so more likely to migrate upwards to a point where they can be flushed out by carrying out a normal bleed procedure.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As I understand it, the 'lever trick' is carried out with everything in it's normal position. The whole purpose is to apply pressure to the system for a long period (say overnight). The pressure compresses any air bubbles in the system making them much smaller and so more likely to migrate upwards to a point where they can be flushed out by carrying out a normal bleed procedure.

Something similar to what you posted that helps with bleeding;

After bleeding the brakes, to get the remaining lil bubbles out and firming up the lever;

Put the bike on the side stand, forks set to the left, getting the master cylinder at the highest point, and bungee the front brake lever applied overnight. It allows those tiny bubbles to migrate out and does indeed work and give you a firmer lever. I've done it on my old FJR and FZ several times with definite positive results. The FZ even more so as I have dual, straight thru (no connections, "u" hook ups, etc) SS lines.

*What I referred to earlier is strapping the front brake lever applied, THEN, remove the caliper and do your maintainance (rebuild, etc).

Then re-assemble. What I was told (and I don't know if it works) is that by doing this, it keeps the master cylinder from draining out bone dry and thus your NOT starting out with a completely dry system to bleed.

 

[wfooshee]

Basically blocking the passage feeding fluid into the master cylinder's piston.....

 

[06fjrrider]

Ok guys i have new symptoms... over the weekend i rebuilt all calipers. I started the bleeding process and cannot get a firm pedal. I have no air coming out of the bleeders i even took it to the shop so they could bleed it. They bleed the lines and confirmed there was no air. So now what im left with is yamaha mechanics scratching their heads. The front brake lever is soft enough that i can squeeze it back to touch the lever but the breaks are strong. The rear brake are pretty much non existent and the rear brake is grabbing enough that it has discolored the pad backing to a purple color. What could it be? The techs confirmed the caliper rebuild was good and that the lines were depleted of any air but still no brakes?

 

[HotRodZilla]

You still have air caught in there somewhere. I don't know how to force it out.

 

[bluesdog]

Has the ABS system been tested/cycled?

 

[06fjrrider]

Im still thinking air in the system as well. And i checked the abs system doing a couple skids in the yard and it is functioning. Is there a a way to bleed the abs block? I cant see two lines or both masters to go bad at the same time. The only thing the fronts and rears have in common is the abs block i mention air in the abs unit to the stealer but he was stuck on replacing lines and masters. i cant see both of these things going bad at the same time when they were fine 2 hours prior!

 

[HotRodZilla]

If you're able to get your ABS to kick in, your ABS is functioning. The squishy pedal and lever are due to air. Some have tried the trick where they tie the lever to the bar overnight to get air to migrate. Could try that with the pedal also.

Some have used the vacuum pumps to clear air, while others have tried pushing fluid from the bleeder back to the reservoir. A fee have taken their bikes to dealers that were able to fix it. I don't think there's much to do besides be persistent and lucky.

 

[06fjrrider]

I have bleed them the old conventional way and with my mighty vac i spent two days and several big bottles of dot 4. I gave up and took it to the dealer and they bleed 3 times with the same results. fluid comes out clean and bubble free. Im at a loss on this one i feel as if i bought a bmw.

 

[Queensland Ken]

You can perform the ABS functional checks and the ABS ECU diagnostics if you have the test coupler & a manual.

If you can't access a test coupler just bridge out the Sky Blue and Black wire within the male test coupler, even solder in a switch if needed.

I have never bled out a FJR ABS metering block but with the Triumph Trophy I owned (for 3 months), the service manual recommended to bleed out the brakes using the Dealer Tool to activate the ABS.

I just bleed them out normally.

 

[bluesdog]

I think at this point I'd attempt a reverse bleed, as HRZ mentioned, in which the new fluid is forced into the system via the bleeders.

This tends to force trapped air upwards, in the 'natural' direction. Follow the same bleed order as in 'normal' method.

 

[mcatrophy]

One of the symptoms my bike had when its front brake seized on was a squishy brake lever even when the dealer had bled it. It was due to the rotor having warped into a dish shape. Squeezing the callipers would straighten the disc, which would spring back on release. So the lever never went hard.

If your rear brake shows signs of overheating, maybe the disc is warped?

 

[06fjrrider]

Ok so the rear disc is warped. I put in the old pads and rear pedal came back but my fronts are still soft i checked the rotors and they are straight. I did the reverse bleed with no results?

 

[Just Krusen]

Just tie the front brake lever to the grip overnight. I use a velcro strap. For some reason this works to get the last air out of a stubborn system. Do the same to the rear by hanging a weight on the pedal or wedging something in to hold it down. Check it in the morning and see what you have. We have been doing this with GL1800s for many years and it usually works.

 

[06fjrrider]

After it sits do i crack it at the bleeder or master cylinder?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

After it sits do i crack it at the bleeder or master cylinder?

Nope, just remove the velcro. Get the master cylinder on the handle bars high as possible(steering turned to the left)on the side stand..