Givi box airborne at 80mph!

[Fred W]

OK, well... that didn't take too long.

[SIZE=14pt]The $3 remedy to flying GIVI trunks[/SIZE] (mine is a V46):

What you'll need to buy from local hardware store (I used Home Depot)):

1 ) - 3/8" x 2" long Clevis pin

2 ) - 3/8" Sealing Washers (bonded) need 2

3 ) - Hitch pin clip

4 ) 3/8" plastic spacer (cut to 3/4" length)

With the bag mounted normally on the rack, drill a 3/8" hole down through the center of the area in the trunk bottom that would be used for the Givi brake light connector, or if you have the brake light connector, the same place on the opposite side of the latch could be used. Drill straight down, all the way through the plastic (or metal) givi mounting plate.

Put one sealing washer on the clevis pin and then insert through the hole in the bag and rack plate. The sealing washers are nice. They are rubber bonded to a conical shaped washer. They are a friction fit to the clevis pin and will make it easier to put the pin on and off if removing the trunk.

Push another sealing washer on the clevis pin from underneath, this is to spread out any load (should the latch actually come loose) across more plastic area.

The plastic spacer is needed so that the hitch pin will be flush with the bottom of the rack when installed.

Slide spacer onto clevis pin and clip the hitch pin to hold it all together.

 

[Big-D]

My top box is just the cheaper JC Whitney that costs about $70 including the mounting plate. I did howevver buy the Yamaha OEM mounting plate and combined the two together. I've hit tracks, ruts, bumps and I frequently surpass the load limit by carrying as much as 50 pounds in my trunk and that baby just won't (can't) come off.

Of course now that I've said that, It'll certainly fly off at speed, destroying everything I carry in it.

 

[Hudson]

I was thinking this may be one of the reasons it's recommended not to use the top case over 80 MPH. Not just due to the bike's stability but also the aero forces being placed on the case could cause failure. Perhaps there are some engineers on here that could weigh in.

I had a "friend" who had his FJR at 140 mph (measured true via GPS) without any stability issues (top Givi plus side cases). I think in a windy situation, stability might by an issue, but otherwise the rear case doesn't seem to pose stability concerns. 80 mph is a non-issue (assuming the Givi is secured properly, which may have been the issue here).

I use the premier rack. But I love the cotter pin idea, maybe I'll do this on the next tech day.

 

[ScottyUSN]

The E55 bubble on the Premier cycle mount. I have to put a few pounds of down pressure on the box to get the click in place, which also means there is no rattle.

That said... I am lucky on at least one occasion that after a ride the box was "resting" on the latch but not clicked in place with red botton depressed. With the crappy Oklahoma roads, I am amazed it did not fly off.

I suspect that I unknowingly pushed the release button (operator error).

 

[FJRBluesman]

OK, well... that didn't take too long.

[SIZE=14pt]The $3 remedy to flying GIVI trunks[/SIZE] (mine is a V46):

What you'll need to buy from local hardware store (I used Home Depot)):

1 ) - 3/8" x 2" long Clevis pin

2 ) - 3/8" Sealing Washers (bonded) need 2

3 ) - Hitch pin clip

4 ) 3/8" plastic spacer (cut to 3/4" length)

With the bag mounted normally on the rack, drill a 3/8" hole down through the center of the area in the trunk bottom that would be used for the Givi brake light connector, or if you have the brake light connector, the same place on the opposite side of the latch could be used. Drill straight down, all the way through the plastic (or metal) givi mounting plate.

Put one sealing washer on the clevis pin and then insert through the hole in the bag and rack plate. The sealing washers are nice. They are rubber bonded to a conical shaped washer. They are a friction fit to the clevis pin and will make it easier to put the pin on and off if removing the trunk.

Push another sealing washer on the clevis pin from underneath, this is to spread out any load (should the latch actually come loose) across more plastic area.

The plastic spacer is needed so that the hitch pin will be flush with the bottom of the rack when installed.

Slide spacer onto clevis pin and clip the hitch pin to hold it all together.

Excellent idea Fred! :yahoo:

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Don't use Givi, have OEM, but that is a dandy idea....

peace of mind and security thoughtful as well.

 

[Fred W]

Looking closer at my own picture evidence, one could make an argument for using a larger diameter "fender" washer inside the bag, to spread the load from the pin out even further. The pre-formed knock-out area for the Givi brake light connectors may be weaker than optimum. If the washer spanned that cut-out it might provide some additional strength and security.

 

[Denalosfjr]

Sweet ! Fred thanks for the idea i guess i will be headed to HomeDepot tomorrow!!

:yahoo:

 

[FJRBluesman]

Looking closer at my own picture evidence, one could make an argument for using a larger diameter "fender" washer inside the bag, to spread the load from the pin out even further. The pre-formed knock-out area for the Givi brake light connectors may be weaker than optimum. If the washer spanned that cut-out it might provide some additional strength and security.

Fred - How about doing both sides to also help with the load. The pin is really just a safety, not the actual way to hold it down, so maybe the load isn't that much.

 

[Fred W]

Looking closer at my own picture evidence, one could make an argument for using a larger diameter "fender" washer inside the bag, to spread the load from the pin out even further. The pre-formed knock-out area for the Givi brake light connectors may be weaker than optimum. If the washer spanned that cut-out it might provide some additional strength and security.

Fred - How about doing both sides to also help with the load. The pin is really just a safety, not the actual way to hold it down, so maybe the load isn't that much.

Yes, that was my original thought. With the pin installed snugly, it's actually not even possible to unlatch the trunk inadvertently, it just stays on the vertical prong anyway.

By "doing both sides" I assume that you mean to use a larger washer under the plastic rack plate also? That could be a good idea. The plastic of the rack is stiffer and thicker than the trunk body. And my primary concern was the the knock-out would weaken the trunk body. But I'm sure it is good enough as is.

The reason I opted to drill through the knock-out was that if this didn't pan out, I could always drill it out the rest of the way and install the crappy Givi brake light kit to make it look "factory".

 

[FJRBluesman]

Looking closer at my own picture evidence, one could make an argument for using a larger diameter "fender" washer inside the bag, to spread the load from the pin out even further. The pre-formed knock-out area for the Givi brake light connectors may be weaker than optimum. If the washer spanned that cut-out it might provide some additional strength and security.

Fred - How about doing both sides to also help with the load. The pin is really just a safety, not the actual way to hold it down, so maybe the load isn't that much.

Yes, that was my original thought. With the pin installed snugly, it's actually not even possible to unlatch the trunk inadvertently, it just stays on the vertical prong anyway.
By "doing both sides" I assume that you mean to use a larger washer under the plastic rack plate also? That could be a good idea. The plastic of the rack is stiffer and thicker than the trunk body. And my primary concern was the the knock-out would weaken the trunk body. But I'm sure it is good enough as is.

The reason I opted to drill through the knock-out was that if this didn't pan out, I could always drill it out the rest of the way and install the crappy Givi brake light kit to make it look "factory".

I meant one on the left side and one on the right side of center line. It's all good though.

 

[wfooshee]

Something else occurs to me. You guys putting pads in there so it doesn't rattle around, if that pad is too thick, it may not allow the latch to catch fully. It engages but is too tight for the spring to overcome the friction so it doesn't extend fully under the catch, which leaves the box barely hanging on.

In other words, a little loose on the mount is better than much too tight. If it rocks just a bit who cares, so long as the latch in the base is fully engaged.

An attempt to illustrate that of which I speak:

 

[Fred W]

I meant one on the left side and one on the right side of center line. It's all good though.

Oh, yeah. That is definitely possible and would also increase stability. If you didn't need or want a quick release you could substitute a nice pair of 3/8" bolts of the appropriate length for the clip and pin. I wanted to be able to remove it with no tools as, unlike my side bags, the trunk goes on and off the bike quite regularly, since I only use it when 2-up.

Something else occurs to me. You guys putting pads in there so it doesn't rattle around, if that pad is too thick, it may not allow the latch to catch fully. It engages but is too tight for the spring to overcome the friction so it doesn't extend fully under the catch, which leaves the box barely hanging on.
In other words, a little loose on the mount is better than much too tight. If it rocks just a bit who cares, so long as the latch in the base is fully engaged.

An attempt to illustrate that of which I speak:

That is a very real possibility, and well worth making note of.

Any added anti-vibration pads should be made from a resilient foam rubber so that they can be easily compressed when latching the bag on. Even then, you'd want to be extra careful in cold weather when the foam stiffens.

 

[Aussie Bub]

Guy,s i,ve had my givi since 04 never had a problem but the best way to stop it falling off is velcro just put it along under tha box and on the base and you can still remove . :clapping: :clapping: Bub

I meant one on the left side and one on the right side of center line. It's all good though.

Oh, yeah. That is definitely possible and would also increase stability. If you didn't need or want a quick release you could substitute a nice pair of 3/8" bolts of the appropriate length for the clip and pin. I wanted to be able to remove it with no tools as, unlike my side bags, the trunk goes on and off the bike quite regularly, since I only use it when 2-up.

Something else occurs to me. You guys putting pads in there so it doesn't rattle around, if that pad is too thick, it may not allow the latch to catch fully. It engages but is too tight for the spring to overcome the friction so it doesn't extend fully under the catch, which leaves the box barely hanging on.
In other words, a little loose on the mount is better than much too tight. If it rocks just a bit who cares, so long as the latch in the base is fully engaged.

An attempt to illustrate that of which I speak:

That is a very real possibility, and well worth making note of.

Any added anti-vibration pads should be made from a resilient foam rubber so that they can be easily compressed when latching the bag on. Even then, you'd want to be extra careful in cold weather when the foam stiffens.

 

[Robert Ford]

i have no pictures of the tape i put on the latch area i removed the tape at the crash site said a choice word or two and finished my 400 mile ride.
The LED lights still work after bouncing down the road woohoo!

My buddy following me says he got the box flying off on video from his bike camera .Hes going to put it on YouTube ...... :blink:

Oh well!!

At the risk of sounding morbid, did your buddy post that video yet? :eh-smiley:

 

[motochick]

My V46 came loose a month ago. I'm not sure if it was a rack failure or user error, but when I came to a stop at a major intersection, I saw my V46 come flying over my left shoulder and smack on the cement and slide in the middle of the intersection.

I wanted to close my eyes because I knew a car would soon hit it and all my stuff would be scattered. Fortunately I was able to safely get off the bike and retrieve my case from the intersection. Its all scrapped up like yours in the picture, but it still works fine. I can't figure out how it came loose because I could not reproduce it, but I did hit a big pothole right before it happened. I emailed Givi and they wanted me to ship them my case for inspection. I didn't want to go through the trouble because my FJR is my only transportation and I need my case. Your solution above with the safety pin is a great idea.

This has been a very informative post for me!

Thanks guys!!

 

[FJRBluesman]

WOW! More people than I thought have had issues with their Givi's separating from the mounts, interesting.

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, me too. That's why I invested the FredCo GSP™ (Givi Safety Pin).

"Just set it, and forget it!!"

(Hey that phrase hasn't been used before, has it? )

 

[ynotride]

Thank you Fred W. My top box is just the cheaper JC Whitney and I always worry when I have my laptop in there. It took me about 10 minutes to bolt it down once I found what I needed at Home Depot :clapping:

 

[Denalosfjr]

So as i was going to install the FredCo safety pin i found out the button that locks the box on to the plate is broken.

https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/499903...96a87de06_m.jpg

now even if i put the pin in the box can be stolen off the back because the key wont lock it.

i wonder if this broke before i even tried taping the latch.......correct me if i am wrong the key should lock the box to the plate and lock it closed. Its designed to be so you cant remove the key unless the latch is closed right?