HELP...help wheaton get bike started

[wheatonFJR]

UPDATE...SEE SECOND PAGE OF THIS THREAD.

:clapping: HELP...I can't get my bike started! :huh:

My bike had a long layoff due to work, getting Roadsmarts spooned on, floods, etc.

6 weeks after NAFO, I go to start the bike, it starts temporally then quits. Go to restart and it would crank healthily for awhile but would not fire up. Charged the battery as the cranking and long layoff had taken it's toll. Thought a fresh charge would help. I know about wide open throttle...have used it before and it has worked. Didn't help me this time.

I know you can't help me long distance, but my feej is not starting. It sat for awhile after NAFO due to work, problems getting some new tires spooned on, floods, etc. Anyways, it wouldn't start after six weeks. I used wot thinking it was flooded...this has worked other times. Anyway, the battery was weak so I put it on the charger overnight then retried. The battery is good...it cranks pretty well. Anyways, I retried the next day and it still wouldn't start. This past weekend I siphoned most of the gas out (2 gallons) and put 2 gallons of premium in. Couldn't start it. Tonight I put new plugs in...it wouldn't start.

Anyways, if I don't get it started this weekend, I probably won't be able to do my ride the following weekend. That would be bad...those MO/AR roads are great.

Anyways...I'm not mechanically inclined...but if you have any thoughts...I'm all ears!

Please help if you can.

If there are local riders that can help, please PM ME and I will get you directions. I do pay in 6 packs of beer if you like. :clapping:

Moral of the story...don't abuse the feej by not riding it.

 

[Sherman]

+Starting +Problems

Try googling this: site:fjrforum.com start won't

 

[joeR6]

Could the fuel breather hose be pinched when you put the panels back on after putting in new plugs? ECU and electrical connectors on nice and tight?

Hope you get her going - sounds frustrating

 

[GunMD]

I can't work on anything that doesn't have a vagina or a keyboard, but I'll try to help. My only thought is that perhaps you've got some kind of "vapor lock" situation. Open the fuel fill door and see if you hear a great "poof" of air rushin in. That's all I've got for ya man. I wish I had more to offer.

:dntknw:

 

[Wolfhound]

Are you getting spark ?

Are you smelling gas at the exhaust ?

Smelling gas = flooded

Gotta have spark

Gotta have gas

I just had everything appear to be working but no ignition. Was a loose wire at the ign switch (the two smaller wires control ig). . Doubt if that's your problem.

 

[pinhead]

...it wouldn't start after six weeks.

[worthless post]

Wheaty, she's just pissed after being ignored for 6 weeks. You know how they can be. Just talk nice to her and say "I'm sorry." She'll come around.

I'm sure someone (smarter'n me) here will figure it out. You'll get to go on your trip.

As mentioned, you need spark and gas, but you also need air in more than one place -- fuel tank beather hose, air intake. Check those for gunk, insect cacoons, varmit nests, and dead kittens (don't ask).

[/worthless post]

 

[phil]

Are you getting spark ?Are you smelling gas at the exhaust ?

Gotta have spark

Gotta have gas

Remove a spark plug, attach the wire to the tip, and hold the plug's electrode near a grounding surface while cranking. You should see a spark jumping.

Shoot some starter fluid thru the intake from air filter box, to see if she tries to start that way.

 

[slapnpop]

Check to see if the fuel rail is pressurizing when you turn the key. You should be able to hear the fuel pump, but also check the rail pressure.

If you are getting pressure at the rails, I would expect the rest of the FI system to be working, as you are getting *no* coughing (right?)

Past that I would start troubleshooting electrical. Have you had the recalled throttle position sensor installed? That caused no-run if I remember right. Otherwise the service manual lists all of the pre-start conditions.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

Battery

• Discharged battery

• Faulty battery

Fuse(s)

• Blown, damaged or incorrect fuse

• Improperly installed fuse

Spark plug(s)

• Incorrect spark plug gap

• Incorrect spark plug heat range

• Fouled spark plug

• Worn or damaged electrode

• Worn or damaged insulator

• Faulty spark plug cap

Ignition coil(s)

• Cracked or broken ignition coil

• Broken or shorted primary or secondary coils

• Faulty spark plug lead

Ignition system

• Faulty ECU

• Faulty crankshaft position sensor

• Broken generator rotor woodruff key

Switches and wiring

• Faulty main switch

• Faulty engine stop switch

• Broken or shorted wiring

• Faulty neutral switch

• Faulty start switch

• Faulty sidestand switch

• Faulty clutch switch

• Improperly grounded circuit

• Loose connections

 

[wheatonFJR]

+Starting +Problems

Try googling this: site:fjrforum.com start won't

WILL DO. :clapping:

Could the fuel breather hose be pinched when you put the panels back on after putting in new plugs? ECU and electrical connectors on nice and tight?
Hope you get her going - sounds frustrating

Gas tank is till up..haven't put the panels back in yet. Connectors are tight.

I can't work on anything that doesn't have a vagina or a keyboard, but I'll try to help. My only thought is that perhaps you've got some kind of "vapor lock" situation. Open the fuel fill door and see if you hear a great "poof" of air rushin in. That's all I've got for ya man. I wish I had more to offer.
:dntknw:

No vapor lock...no poof of air.

Are you getting spark ?Are you smelling gas at the exhaust ?

Gotta have spark

Gotta have gas

I just had everything appear to be working but no ignition. Was a loose wire at the ign switch (the two smaller wires control ig). . Doubt if that's your problem.

I defintely smelled gas...but haven't sniffed the exhaust. After putting in the plugs tonight, I first tried starting it normal...press start button. Then I tried WOT. No good either time...no catchy...just turning it over.

How do I determine spark? Remember...I barely know which side of the wrench to hold.

...it wouldn't start after six weeks.

[worthless post]

Wheaty, she's just pissed after being ignored for 6 weeks. ....

[/worthless post]

I here ya...I was hoping to give her a good ride down in MO/AR to make up for it...in 9 days...if I can get this problem resolved.

Any locals want to help a poor guy out...<homer voice> beeeer! <homer voice>

Please...

 

[wheatonFJR]

Check to see if the fuel rail is pressurizing when you turn the key. You should be able to hear the fuel pump, but also check the rail pressure.
If you are getting pressure at the rails, I would expect the rest of the FI system to be working, as you are getting *no* coughing (right?)

Past that I would start troubleshooting electrical. Have you had the recalled throttle position sensor installed? That caused no-run if I remember right. Otherwise the service manual lists all of the pre-start conditions.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

Battery

• Discharged battery

• Faulty battery

Fuse(s)

• Blown, damaged or incorrect fuse

• Improperly installed fuse

Spark plug(s)

• Incorrect spark plug gap

• Incorrect spark plug heat range

• Fouled spark plug

• Worn or damaged electrode

• Worn or damaged insulator

• Faulty spark plug cap

Ignition coil(s)

• Cracked or broken ignition coil

• Broken or shorted primary or secondary coils

• Faulty spark plug lead

Ignition system

• Faulty ECU

• Faulty crankshaft position sensor

• Broken generator rotor woodruff key

Switches and wiring

• Faulty main switch

• Faulty engine stop switch

• Broken or shorted wiring

• Faulty neutral switch

• Faulty start switch

• Faulty sidestand switch

• Faulty clutch switch

• Improperly grounded circuit

• Loose connections

Starting system

• Faulty starter motor

• Faulty starter relay

• Faulty starting circuit cut-off relay

• Faulty starter clutch

Thanks Slappy...I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to "on". I don't know how to check the pressure in the fuel rails...I would probably need a local owner to hep me wid dat.

One other note...I was able to siphon most of the gas out of the tank using a siphon hose...but not all. I put premium back in but there is still residual old gas in there. Could this be a problem? Do I need to drain the gas tank empty? Can that be done? Would that help?

edit- have not had recalled tps installed. If that is it, I hope I can have that done before my ride in one week. Thanks for the help trouble shooting. :clapping:

 

[HaulinAshe]

You smelled gas earlier, so checking spark is next.

Grab a spark plug, old or new. Pull the plug wire from one cylinder and place a spark plug in it. Lay the side of the plug against engine metal somewhere for a ground. Fire the starter a few rounds and see if you get spark.

If you don't have a spare plug and truly are not good with wrenches, then stay away from pulling a spark plug from the engine. Better off to run down to the auto parts store and buy any NGK CR8 or CR9 plug they have in stock to test with.

 

[wheatonFJR]

You smelled gas earlier, so checking spark is next.
Grab a spark plug, old or new. Pull the plug wire from one cylinder and place a spark plug in it. Lay the side of the plug against engine metal somewhere for a ground. Fire the starter a few rounds and see if you get spark.

Thanks Jeff for that clear description. I will try that tommorrow.

 

[Wolfhound]

Sounds like no fire since you can smell gas . . .

 

[spalkin]

I'm waiting for the spark plug test. Fuses? If you can't find it by going through SlapnPop's list, you've mistaken your FJR for a microwave.

 

[madmike2]

When mine played the same game, I changed the plugs, too. Before I installed the new plugs I cranked the engine over and let the "wet" cylinders air out for an hour, or so, then installed the new plugs.

It STILL acted like it was flooded. IIRC, I cycled through the start sequence @ WOT 3 or 4 times before it started and began to run. Even then it was stumbling and choked up but it finally cleared itself.

Just changing the plugs wasn't "magic". I still had to start it as if it were flooded.

Good luck.

 

[cougar8000]

Mark, let us know about the spark plug test. Do not hold the plug in your hand. Hold on to it with the pliers that have rubber grips and hold the tip about an inch away from the bare metal, engine block.

The earliest I can get to your area would be the weekend. Hope you get it going before that.

 

[ionbeam]

Use the Force wheatonFJR, let the power of diAG codes 30 & 31 show you the way... No need to mess with those cold, hard, knuckle busting tools. If you go to the diAG screen and sequence up to diAG code #30 then turn the red run/stop switch off and back on again plugs #1 & #4 will fire 5 times; at code #31 plugs #2 & #3 will fire 5 times. I can hear the plugs fire without having to remove anything, they make a strong popping noise. Codes 30 & 31 are intended to let a mechanic use a plug simulator to check for spark but it will work the same way with a standard plug too.

If you try the codes and don't hear anything then it is time to actually pull plugs and check for a fat blue spark. Weak yellow or red spark is no good, the spark must be blue/white. Using the diAG codes you can fire any plug without having to crank the engine.

Coil #1 fires plugs #1 & #4 at the same time; coil #2 fires plugs #2 & #3 at the same time. If anything is wrong with Coil 1 or Coil 2 usually both plugs associated with that coil will fail to fire.

Based on the way that it ran for a short time after a long idle period I would be betting on your no start being caused by a flooded condition. Pull the plugs, leave the engine sit over night with the plug holes open. Put in fresh plugs the next day and it should fire right up.

If you smell gas, the plugs are firing and fresh plugs in combination with WOT cranking do not start the engine then I would suggest doing a compression check to see if carbon may be holding one or more valves open. As off beat as this sounds it has been the root cause for several FJRs that would not start.

Edited to add: When you pull the plugs check to see if they look wet. The plugs should not be covered in a soft sooty black, indicating a rich/flooded condition. Hold the plugs up and verify that there is nothing bridging the electrodes. If the plugs are iridiums do not try to check the gap or gap the plugs because there is a good chance that the plugs will be damaged. The plug gaps would have to be way, way off to cause a no-start condition.

Edit #2: You say the tank is propped up? Is the gas in the tank deep enough to reach the fuel pickup in the tank? Voltage at the coil must be >9 volts during cranking. Cranking speed should be 40 rpm or faster. Also, if you pursue the diAG for the plugs, stop by code #61 and check for any codes held in the history.

 

[Zorlac]

When mine does that, it's the ignition switch.

More than likely, the one set of contacts that the safety interlocks go through are intermittent.

I know for a fact that mine are, and will probably splice in the relay fix soon enough, since a recall induced redesign of the switch seems far off.

Cycling the key works for me.

 

[ionbeam]

Zorlac is correct; the ignition key could cause a no-start. If the main power Brown & Red wires are not connecting there will be no lights. If the secondary switch contacts with the Blue/White & Blue/Yellow wires are a problem the fuel pump will not run

--or-- the engine will not crank.

Zorlac, when your key switch causes your no-start can you hear the fuel pump run?