How not to install a tire

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Ray

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Location
Kissimmee Fl
Thought I would share my disaster in changing the rear tire on my FJR. I can do it as a mastercard add:

purchase harbor frieght tire changer with motorcycle attachment - $120

tire balancer - $100

no-mar bar - $110 - including breaking the tip off after first time trying to use it

disposable gloves that were put over the harbor frieght clamp but stilll tore causing the wheel to be scratched - $1

2 blades off dreamel as I tried to cut the bead because I could not get the no mar bar under the bead $0.20

Cost of taking tire to dealer after trying for 4 hours to get tire off with harbor frieight changer and no bar bar till tip finall broke off bar - $44

totally feeling defeated as I look at the scratched up wheel and wonder what to do about the front - especially when other friends have had no problem using the same set up - priceless!

Anybody know where we can get paint that matches the wheels - it is the dark gray on a 2006 AE

Plan on going over to my friends and watching how they did it - have seen demo and videos - it looked so easy. I could not get the bar under the bead no matter what - including trying to clamp the tire together to pull it way from wheel. Hope they go a lot easier on my racing SV 650.

 
Damn, that's what I call a bad day.

The HF set up isn't the cat's meow, but it can work *if* you pay attention to detail.

I have the same set up as you - with the exception I also have a good old 4some of tire irons.. :lol:

I find, depending upon the tire, ambient temperature, and my 'mood', that often:

1. I only use the 'bar' for removal. Not yet able to 'install' using that thing.

2. Go to Napa and buy a gallon of 'RubrGlyde' or whatever they call it - that stuff works GREAT.

3. If it gets really bad, just stop. :unsure:

 
Depending on how bad the scratches are you might be better off powder coating the wheel(s), IMHO

 
Really sorry to hear about your difficulties.

Did you break the beads on both sides of the wheel?

Usually once the beads are broken, you can push the one side down enough to get the lever in, then rotate 90˚ to set the lip of the tip to where it will grab/hold the bead when you pry it over the lip. Not always easy, but it shouldn't have been as bad as you describe.

As to the wheel, it's ruined now. I need a paperweight though, so I'll gladly pay shipping if you'll be kind enough to send it to me. B)

 
Before I got a "real" tire changer, I used to break the bead by using a big "C" clamp. I had a piece of plywood one one side of the tire/rim and just cranked down next to the rim on the other side. One time even that didn't work so I laid the tire/rim down flat and put the base of a bumper jack on the tire. I then jacked up the car until the bead broke. Hey, whatever it takes. I couldn't imagine trying to get a bar under there without the bead being broken, which it sounds like you tried to do.

Now I have a Coates manual tire changer and it comes with a built-in bead breaker. It takes about 20 seconds to break the beads on both sides of the tire. I'm lovin' it.

 
I just squeeze the beads together with my hands and then rip the damn tire off.

I'm a little more careful when I put the damn new one on -- I just pull on one side at a time.

Eh...Eh -- Got that maggot?!

Major Payne USMC

 
When in doubt do the math.. $330 divided by $44 (Around here the tire mount runs from free with purchase to $15-$28 if it is a carry in, this include balancing) equals 7.5 tire monutings (or 11.7 at the high end here.). One set of year tires per year that amounts to 3.5 years mounting free hassle and 28 more hours of riding time. As my younger brother (a former Yamaha wrench) said, "sometimes it is cheaper to have it done, and don't buy a bike that you're not willing to push to the nearest dealer (more dealers, more help in a pinch)." Sorry about your pain....

 
You gotta have good tire lube and you gotta get the beads off the rims to the center of the wheel valley. It sounds as you could of used a helper (at least for the first try). Better luck next time.

 
When in doubt do the math.. $330 divided by $44 (Around here the tire mount runs from free with purchase to $15-$28 if it is a carry in, this include balancing) equals 7.5 tire monutings (or 11.7 at the high end here.). One set of year tires per year that amounts to 3.5 years mounting free hassle and 28 more hours of riding time. As my younger brother (a former Yamaha wrench) said, "sometimes it is cheaper to have it done, and don't buy a bike that you're not willing to push to the nearest dealer (more dealers, more help in a pinch)." Sorry about your pain....
The best I've found around here is 20.00 per tire, bring your rim in and unbalanced. That's 40.00 for a partial job. I just use homemade bead breaker and levers, knees, c clamps, Parnes balancer, etc,etc. I have less than 200.00 invested in my setup. That being said, it is possible with just simple tools so keep at it and develop your technique. You have a decent basic setup. I get satisifaction of adding to the things that I do for myself.

 
I just squeeze the beads together with my hands and then rip the damn tire off.I'm a little more careful when I put the damn new one on -- I just pull on one side at a time.

Eh...Eh -- Got that maggot?!

Major Payne USMC
Riiiiiightttt

:p

+1 for the large c-clamps to keep the beads in the center of the wheel.

 
Should have just rode to the Youngstown area where you have friends with a No-Mar who are willing to work for beer. ;)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
damn...sorry to hear your bad experience. Makes me glad I decided to go the other way on my tire changing needs. I have a guy here that spin balances and mounts my tires for $15.00 if I bring him the wheels and tires. I go thru about 3 rears and 2 fronts a year. 5 tire changes X $15 = $75/annual for spin balanced tires. Good luck, and hope you finally figure out that set up!

 
It always 'looks' easy. The No-Mar guys use some pretty stretched out tires in their demos. It takes practice and technique.

If you're breaking a sweat you're doing something wrong. I learned that the hard way too.

-MD

 
I just squeeze the beads together with my hands and then rip the damn tire off.I'm a little more careful when I put the damn new one on -- I just pull on one side at a time.

Eh...Eh -- Got that maggot?!

Major Payne USMC
Damnnnnn ,, your beyond a hell of a man, Major ,,,, actually sound more like a gorilla

a good tire lube is a Big help ,,, I use "Tire Slick" ,,,, ( liquid soap and water in a pinch ...)

Make sure the bead is broke on both sides ,,lots of lube taking it off and putting it on..

a chunk of 2x4 and/ or clamp to hold the opposite side of the tire in the narrow center of the rim

is helpful also...

I've got a couple long heavy spoons about 18 or so inches and about 4 foot long spoons that I use...

I haven't done the 55 series rear on the FJR yet,,,, the 60 series on my CBR was a real wrestling

match with spoons... I was kind of hoping to get a No-mar or something like it before I had to change the rear..

Don't set the rotors on the floor ,,, use something to keep pressure off the rotors...

Helps to have a friend that knows what he doing to show you the ropes the first couple times...

 
Thanks guys for all your advice. I made the investment in the changer becuase I am going racing this year with a SV 650 track bike purchased last fall - a bucket list kind of thing. I had ran a track day in the FJR and loved it -- decided to get a bike for that purpose and figured I would be changing a few tires over the next couple of years.

I had the bead broke on both sides and even clamped the tire together but for some reason just could not get the bar tip between the rim and the tire bead. Oh well - I will watch and learn. I was greatly enjoyable hearing your comments. I'll just say I got the scratches after hitting a few geese but safely landing in the Hudson.

 
I use a large bench vise to break the beads-rim against the fixed jaw with a welding glove to protect it and movable jaw pushes the bead off. The FJR rim doesn't have much of a well for the beads to drop into so the job is harder than usual..I scratched my rim with a tire iron[not my fault-it was the Saranac pale ale] so I got a rattle can of paint from Color Rite[not cheap]..The number on the can is 5265 Yamaha 0895...Silver #8

 
Better check that number that I just posted-I just realized that you have a AE-same color wheel as A?

 
Here's the way I do it:

Having CycleGear remove the old tire and mount and balance the new one: $20

Having CycleGear dispose of the old tire: $3

Having CycleGear replace the rubber valve stem: $2.50

Total: $25.50. Why do it yourself?

 
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