how to replace sparkplugs

[Toecutter]

How was that fixed? Did they have to pull the head?

When I pulled the thread-less plug back out of the hole, I successfully fought off the sudden urge to puke on my shoes. Then I got a long, skinny screwdriver that engaged the ground electrode and just backed it out of the hole. Talk about a relief! :yahoo:

Of course, then I had to go to the stealer, in the car, and humbly buy one spark plug, which was about as much as two from University Motors.

 

[Grumpy]

Am I the only guy that uses a little "anti-seize" on the steel threads that go into an aluminum head?

jim

 

[C&C]

Good point Grump, I use it; especially on spark plug threads. (just a little, all that's needed)

(and rubber boot covered or not, I blow out the spark plug holes before removing the plugs)

 

[teerex51]

There's nothing I can contribute by way of descriptions & tips every aspect having been most eccellently covered already.

I have some pics, however, taken from a different angle and showing the motor from the top.

The most astute wrenches among us will have already spotted the four spark-plug holes. The rubber boots are numbered 1 to 4 left to right

so as to ward off panic and despair when they must be repositioned (and to avoid a clusterf*** if you put them on the wrong plug).

This here is cylinder #4

This, for the uninitiated is one of the 4 rubber boots that need to be energetically pushed in, after having been briskly pulled out to access the plugs...

And this, for the very uninitiated, is a healthy spark plug

Stef

 

[Toecutter]

Am I the only guy that uses a little "anti-seize" on the steel threads that go into an aluminum head?

Nope. "A little" is the operative term.

 

[v65]

Am I the only guy that uses a little "anti-seize" on the steel threads that go into an aluminum head?jim

My preference is to check the plugs more frequently before they get a chance to seize, on the feejer I change the plugs every 8000 miles, no anti-seize necessary IMO. Now on my minivan, those plugs are rated for 100000. In theory I would check them say every 25000 miles or so, but that back bank is a real PITA, so 100000 it is with anti-seize.

Do you use the copper high temp stuff, or a product specifically for plugs like the champion anti-seize?

 

[BobbyBlue]

Stef, You are just too helpful ! Good on ya bro'. We are an irreverent but lovable group, no?

I agrre with grumpy on the anti-sieze, i use the generic stuff, remember to run the sucker low on petrol and it'll be easier to play with the tank. Also a "flex-socket" or at least an extension that gives a little bit is helpful.

Bobby

 

[Orient_Express]

teerex51,

Your pictures are messed up - there's no alcohol - everybody knows changing spark plugs is at least a six pack job. :dribble:

 

[C&C]

And a little dab of silicone grease (inside the boot) helps with slipping the boots back on (and taking them off again at the next plug check/change).

 

[CAJW]

Am I the only guy that uses a little "anti-seize" on the steel threads that go into an aluminum head?

Nope. "A little" is the operative term.

Ditto on a little. Once I got some anti-sieze on the electrode and "she no run too good" so keep it on the threads!

 

[Nightshift]

I just put new Irridium plugs in my 04 FJR. THe gap is.7-.8 mm BTW. The hard part is getting everything back together without pinching hoses. The old plugs were not burned but they were the stock plugs after 17000 mi did look like they were in need of bein changed out. I will let ya'' know how it runs after I get this thing back together.

 

[Nightshift]

Am I the only guy that uses a little "anti-seize" on the steel threads that go into an aluminum head?jim

I used the anti-seize stuff on the irridium plugs I just installed. I did not have any problem removing the old plugs but I figure just give it a try.

 

[Nightshift]

I just put new Irridium plugs in my 04 FJR. THe gap is.7-.8 mm BTW. The hard part is getting everything back together without pinching hoses. The old plugs were not burned but they were the stock plugs after 17000 mi did look like they were in need of bein changed out. I will let ya'' know how it runs after I get this thing back together.

The bike runs grreat with the new plugs. :yahoo: My mechanical 'skills 'saved me $120.00 instead of having a dealership do it. I swear the FJR feels smoother and has a touch more torque. Those plugs cost $35.00 so I am happy there is a noticeable positive outcome in performance.

 

[evilmedic13]

Just a quick question . I just changed my plugs and the electrode is BLACK, or I should say the ring/top thread around the electrode is that way, on all 4 of 'em.

The bike has about 9000 miles on it, I know, I know last summer was busy w/ work and wedding crap and this year I've been able toride it 4 times, once since March 15 :angry: But w/ 4 waaaaay black electrodes is this something to get really worried about?

I'll get photos up as soon I can find my camera, I hope one of the dogs didn't grab it..................... :glare:

 

[Jaxfan]

QUOTE(vectervp1 @ May 16 2007, 11:53 AM)

QUOTE(drjfjr @ May 16 2007, 09:44 AM)

Try this link

how to change FJR spark plugs

Your link is a little screwed up. This link should work.

The instructions are obviously wrong though. There is no mention of a 6 pack, nor a sawsall.

Shouldn't need a sawzall for a six pack, a twelve pack is a whole nuther story.

David

Don't they have screw off caps where you guys live? Sawzall for beer... damn it all! Does it have to be 18V or will the old 12V ones do?

 

[evilmedic13]

12 volt s fine, it's size of the hole you want for easier comsumption (shotgunning) that causes the most problems