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On the LED H4 replacements, the flange that fits against the reflector housing seems relatively small and the body of the cooling fan is close. Is there a problem with closing the spring retainer clips? Does the fan prevent putting the dust boot back on?
I will be installing a set tomorrow or Tuesday on my Gen1. I'll post up lot's of pictures of the process. Since the bike currently looks like this, it should be easier than it was for Chuck
smile.png
.
Update? I suspect no problem getting things installed with the nose off the bike, but I'm curious about the installation clearances for this H4 bulb replacement, and the resultant beam pattern.

Also, you mentioned a possible group special on these in your August 27 post.

 
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On the LED H4 replacements, the flange that fits against the reflector housing seems relatively small and the body of the cooling fan is close. Is there a problem with closing the spring retainer clips? Does the fan prevent putting the dust boot back on?
I will be installing a set tomorrow or Tuesday on my Gen1. I'll post up lot's of pictures of the process. Since the bike currently looks like this, it should be easier than it was for Chuck
smile.png
.
Update? I suspect no problem getting things installed with the nose off the bike, but I'm curious about the installation clearances for this H4 bulb replacement, and the resultant beam pattern.

Also, you mentioned a possible group special on these in your August 27 post.
Oops, sorry for the delay here. Installation is possible with the bike together, it's just a pain in the butt, and requires a bit of cussing. I find the lowbeam gives you a much wider field of view than stock. Cutoff is good. Here's a few pictures against the garage door with a cell phone. I have the three emitter 3000k in the left and two emitter 6500k in the right. The three emitter def wins on output, and I think I prefer the 3000k with my white aux lighting. Gives a better overall light spectrum.

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/10644120_824222047621842_9144135416824071714_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10661926_824222164288497_6687475188845137324_o.jpg

Edit: Will try to get a post up for the group special tomorrow. In the process of buying and selling houses at the moment, so I've been stretched thin on time.

 
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I finished a two-day install of some new LEDRider LR4 auxiliary lights. The actual install time was about 2.5 hours or so, but I took my time and went into the house at regular intervals to escape SoCal's 105F/41C heat.

I had a set of Hella FF50 installed, but the switch setup was half-assed (at best - right, Hal?), and the light output was underwhelming. Last May, on a BBG in central Nevada (at the Team Lyle Silver State Round-up), I had a revelation -- these lights were just not good enough for the appointed task. When I got back home, I ordered a pair of LR4s, along with Justin's dimmer. I finally got around to doing the install starting yesterday on a day off of work.

Removing the Hella's was straight-forward, and I took the opportunity with the B and C panels off to remove some obsolete wiring and clean up the remaining runs behind the dash panels. I chose to hook the dimmer up to my high-beam circuit, which is pretty cool -- when the high-beams are off, the lights use the dimmer setting, and in this mode they work great as conspicuity lights. (My dimmer is set to about 30%)

But when you turn on the high beams, the LR4s go to full, awesome illumination, with a very high lumens-to-power ratio, which is especially helpful on Gen I's with their limited electrical surplus.

Since it's mostly a set-and-forget install, the dimmer sits in the glove box, and per Justin's recommendation I put a 2A fuse between the dimmer and the high-beam circuit, for extra safety.

It's still too hot to close the garage door to do the final aiming, so when it gets darker and cooler I'll make some minor tweaks, and I'll be all set.

 
Just thought I'd share, I sent a message to Justin on this as well, but figured I'd post the idea here to see what other people thought....

I have the dimmer for them and as you know its really a set it and forget it type deal, I have never adjusted the dimmer once, since I've had them.... Its set on the lowest possible setting before the light goes out, otherwise the flashing from on coming traffic is continuous....

Have you thought about making a simple set dimmer - instead of having a variable switch rheostat, just get a reading off the output when its on the lowest setting and make that the bottom low setting, and the high beam bypass goes full blast.... I would imagine that you could make the dimmer much smaller to tuck away and be done with it (removing the rheostat).... basically a high and low only, eliminating the moving parts ?!

Thoughts ?!?!

 
Just thought I'd share, I sent a message to Justin on this as well, but figured I'd post the idea here to see what other people thought....
I have the dimmer for them and as you know its really a set it and forget it type deal, I have never adjusted the dimmer once, since I've had them.... Its set on the lowest possible setting before the light goes out, otherwise the flashing from on coming traffic is continuous....

Have you thought about making a simple set dimmer - instead of having a variable switch rheostat, just get a reading off the output when its on the lowest setting and make that the bottom low setting, and the high beam bypass goes full blast.... I would imagine that you could make the dimmer much smaller to tuck away and be done with it (removing the rheostat).... basically a high and low only, eliminating the moving parts ?!

Thoughts ?!?!
Sure, you can buy a PWM Dimmer and they are very cheap.

Most of them, however, are not particularly small. They are cheap, they work very well but compared with most dedicated dimmers they are fairly bulky. That hasn't stopped me using two of them to make a double heat-troller, because $30 is better than $150, even if the box is a little larger :)

Depending on the lights you choose, some of the PWM controllers are small enough to be discretely placed, especially if you have remote pots and room under the plastic for the main unit.

 
Just thought I'd share, I sent a message to Justin on this as well, but figured I'd post the idea here to see what other people thought....
I have the dimmer for them and as you know its really a set it and forget it type deal, I have never adjusted the dimmer once, since I've had them.... Its set on the lowest possible setting before the light goes out, otherwise the flashing from on coming traffic is continuous....

Have you thought about making a simple set dimmer - instead of having a variable switch rheostat, just get a reading off the output when its on the lowest setting and make that the bottom low setting, and the high beam bypass goes full blast.... I would imagine that you could make the dimmer much smaller to tuck away and be done with it (removing the rheostat).... basically a high and low only, eliminating the moving parts ?!

Thoughts ?!?!

I prefer the variable dimmer. I run the low beams at about 30-40% bright, but can still turn them down even more (like you do) at night. I feel absolutely no remorse if/when a cage driver flashes me in the daylight because my aux lights are bright. I know with 100% certainty it did not actually blind him, so It just lets me know he saw me.

Before I had the LED aux lights I used to run the headlights on high beams during the daylight hours and sometimes got a similar response. I don't get why they are flashing you. Just because they are annoyed? I'd rather annoy them a little than have them not notice me and turn left in front of me

 
I wasn't worried about the flashing in the daylight hours - and that was not in my post Fred.....

I find that the LED's at low setting work fine for me to get noticed in daylight.... It was the night time that it has to be on low so I don't blind night time drivers, plus I really don't need any more attention from police then I already bring to myself :)

Was just suggesting an idea to get the dimmer smaller to tuck out of the way...

 
I find that the LED's at low setting work fine for me to get noticed in daylight....
And that was my point. I do not. I want more than the minimum brightness on low beam during the daylight hours. I actually bought mine more for the increased daylight conspicuity than for the added night time illumination.

 
If you're looking for a very compact dimmer, without external controls, the Skene dimmer is just that. We don't have any plans to make a similar product ourselves.

 
Justin,

I emailed you a week or two ago, never received a response. On the LR4s I have on my 2011, at high Rpms one of them flickers a lot. What do you think is the issue? They are wired on a fuze block and otherwise work ok

 
I have the advrider dimmer which is quite small compared to others. Also expensive IMO for what you get. Anyway it works for me. I guess you could always super glue it in the position

your happy with.

Just a suggestion,

Dave

 
Justin,
I emailed you a week or two ago, never received a response. On the LR4s I have on my 2011, at high Rpms one of them flickers a lot. What do you think is the issue? They are wired on a fuze block and otherwise work ok
Hmm, sorry, I somehow missed your email. I just dug through the work inbox and found it as a reply to the order confirmation email. Will follow up with you there.

 
TXFJR,

You might want to recheck your wires. Due to the week connection of the ADVrider dimmer I ran into the same thing. The connectors

on the dimmer were kind of cheasy. Some shrink tube fixed it and mine have been fine since.

Dave

 
Do you mean the connectors that come with Justin's dimmer switch? I seem to remember they were just wires on mine, no connectors

 
Well - more to come, but I made some progress this evening....

Mounting up the SW-Motech Mirror Extenders, tried them out and am very pleased with them... they really do work great, raised and widened the view, very close to what the FZ1 mirrors I am used to on my 05..... I can see behind me again !!!

Anywho - with the added extension space between the body and the mirror, I was thinking I could probably have some room for the LR4's to mount right under outside.... Mounted up the mirrors on the extensions and did a mock-up of the LR4.... Looked good... Found the center between the posts, and drilled some holes through the Nylon material.... need to get some rubber to sandwich between the LR4's and the curved extenders, and the right bolts tomorrow, but so far I'm pretty happy with how its going to work out.

IMG_20141211_220641_zpsa3vo7k2n.jpg


IMG_20141211_220538_zpswuqugfhr.jpg


 
And thats fine Fred - you already have what your looking for.....
Yes I do. I thought that you were proposing that Justin only supply "fixed" dimmer modules that met your specification. That is certainly how it sounded.

That and that goofy looking Red bike
jester.gif
There is no accounting for personal taste, even when it is as bad as yours.
bleh.gif


PS - For those who are interested in using FZ1 mirrors and mounting their LR4 lights under the mirrors, like was done on prior FJR generations, we are closing in on that concept now. The hardware has been mostly worked out, and I am now just waiting on a set of new 3rd Gen prototype Anti-Vibe brackets from WynPro.

Once I have these I'll post the full results in his Anti Vibe Bracket thread, but will cross post a link to it in this thread since it affects these LR4 lights usage.

 
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Do you mean the connectors that come with Justin's dimmer switch? I seem to remember they were just wires on mine, no connectors
No, these were on the ADVrider dimmer switch. the wires and connecters were flimsey. the connectors would just pull apart after a few days of riding.

Dave

 
Thanks for the heads up on that..

Justin's dimmer works just fine, I'll stick with it and find a home for it.

 
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