LEDRider LED Floods and Spots - FJR Forum discount

[Fred W]

I know there a mounts for the FJR, but I was referring to mount for the Tenere like the bike in the picture

And you would look for those on an FJR forum because... ?

The bike in the picture is an FJR. The mounts used on it in the pic are made by forum member Garauld.

Opps!!! Duh!!!! don't know why I saw a Tenere there

Imagine my confusion!

 

[Bungie]

Some follow up on a previously mentioned issue with the LR4 lights:

Justin,
I ride in the rain. I noticed the other day that I got a lot of condensation behind the lens. I haven't tried taking these apart to see if their is O-ring or something behind the bezel. Is their supposed to be? They are advertised as IPX7.

I noticed the same thing on mine, but only on one side. I'm going to take mine apart and grease the o-ring (yeah, there is one) with silcone grease and see if it will seal up better. If that doesn't cut it, next will be silicone sealant.

Yup, it's a simple o-ring seal behind the front bezel. Our latest batches are using a thicker diameter ring on that seal. If you're having a problem with fogging, please send me a message and we'll get you sorted out.

I had PMed Justin and he kindly sent me out 4 new black rubber o-rings, (though there are only 2 required) to replace the two green colored original o-rings. Looking at the rings I did not see that they looked all that much thicker, but just said, what the heck... silicone greased them up and installed them.

Unfortunately, the new o-rings did not better that the originals, and during our 2 week Ride to the Divide both of the lights were fully fogged up. Still put out plenty of light through the moisture, but I don't think it would be good for the long term health of the electronics. I didn't want to be messing them up while out on the road, so I waited until I got home and took them apart yesterday, intending on goobering them up with some silicone sealer.

But, when I had the lenses in hand I came up with a better idea that may be a "best practice" for you all. First thing that I noticed was that the total diameter of the o-rings was just a tad too small, which had made it difficult to keep them in the little groove when re-assembling. On a whim, I tried just stretching the o-ring out a little and that did seem to make a big difference in getting it properly seated. With the o-ring in place in its groove of the lens cap, I dropped the clear plastic lens on top of it, then put a second pre-stretched o-ring on top of the lens. The second ring will contact the edge of the silver reflector and help push the clear lens into the outermost o-ring.

Having the rings silicone greased and assembling carefully everything stayed in place and the pressure against the outer most o-ring is much improved. I'm fairly confident that this will completely solve the moisture leakage.

Just wanted to share the idea in case you run into the same thing.

This is exactly what I did. Still get moisture in them.

 

[Fred W]

Damn. That is not good news.

Do you still think it is coming in through the front bezel? Maybe there is another entry point?

I did notice an o-ring on the threaded part, maybe that is not a good seal against the threads? Or maybe somewhere further back in the light body?

 

[Justin]

Some follow up on a previously mentioned issue with the LR4 lights:

Justin,
I ride in the rain. I noticed the other day that I got a lot of condensation behind the lens. I haven't tried taking these apart to see if their is O-ring or something behind the bezel. Is their supposed to be? They are advertised as IPX7.

I noticed the same thing on mine, but only on one side. I'm going to take mine apart and grease the o-ring (yeah, there is one) with silcone grease and see if it will seal up better. If that doesn't cut it, next will be silicone sealant.

Yup, it's a simple o-ring seal behind the front bezel. Our latest batches are using a thicker diameter ring on that seal. If you're having a problem with fogging, please send me a message and we'll get you sorted out.

I had PMed Justin and he kindly sent me out 4 new black rubber o-rings, (though there are only 2 required) to replace the two green colored original o-rings. Looking at the rings I did not see that they looked all that much thicker, but just said, what the heck... silicone greased them up and installed them.

Unfortunately, the new o-rings did not better that the originals, and during our 2 week Ride to the Divide both of the lights were fully fogged up. Still put out plenty of light through the moisture, but I don't think it would be good for the long term health of the electronics. I didn't want to be messing them up while out on the road, so I waited until I got home and took them apart yesterday, intending on goobering them up with some silicone sealer.

But, when I had the lenses in hand I came up with a better idea that may be a "best practice" for you all. First thing that I noticed was that the total diameter of the o-rings was just a tad too small, which had made it difficult to keep them in the little groove when re-assembling. On a whim, I tried just stretching the o-ring out a little and that did seem to make a big difference in getting it properly seated. With the o-ring in place in its groove of the lens cap, I dropped the clear plastic lens on top of it, then put a second pre-stretched o-ring on top of the lens. The second ring will contact the edge of the silver reflector and help push the clear lens into the outermost o-ring.

Having the rings silicone greased and assembling carefully everything stayed in place and the pressure against the outer most o-ring is much improved. I'm fairly confident that this will completely solve the moisture leakage.

Just wanted to share the idea in case you run into the same thing.

This is exactly what I did. Still get moisture in them.

I can't imagine with doubled up Orings in the front, that is the point of entry. The only other thing I can suggest is putting a drip loop in the wires behind the light so water does not run down the wires towards the lamp. Send me a message if you are still having problems after that and we'll get you sorted out with a solution/replacement/etc.

 

[Bungie]

The really silly bit is that the moisture shows up if you so much as take a leak in front of the bike. But takes at least a week for it to dissipate.

I'm going to silicone the bezel threads, the glass mating surface of the bezel and around the wire entry point. If it still develops after that. The lenses are porous and are providing filtered water via osmosis.

 

[08FJR4ME]

It would be nice to see some actual comparisons under the same conditions. Apples to Apples, $ to $. Something to think about at the next EOM or NAFO meet.

We got to see just that this past week at the Denver IBA National Meeting.

And the results are???

 

[Fred W]

The really silly bit is that the moisture shows up if you so much as take a leak in front of the bike. But takes at least a week for it to dissipate.
I'm going to silicone the bezel threads, the glass mating surface of the bezel and around the wire entry point. If it still develops after that. The lenses are porous and are providing filtered water via osmosis.

OK, I think I see another way that moisture may be entering these lights.

The body of the light is actually a three piece affair that is also screwed together. The rear finned piece screws into the cylindrical main body and clamps the bracket piece to itself. I found this out by mistake when I was fooling around with the front screw on bezel and the whole body came loose from the bracket. I have not disassembled the body yet as I do not want to twist the cable excessively, and I also want to take my changes one step at a time to see what cures my fogging.

To disassemble the whole body I'd probably remove the front lens bezel and pull the LEDs and reflector forward a little (push the cable in from the back first) so you don't end up twisting the cables back there. Should be pretty easy to goober those up with sealant from the inside if that is where it is getting in.

 

[Bounce]

And the results are???

Some of the lights used are bright. Some are damned bright. With time, the prices should drop more as long-distance reach improves. We're on the cusp.

 

[Justin]

Some of the lights used are bright. Some are damned bright. With time, the prices should drop more as long-distance reach improves. We're on the cusp.

I was a bit disappointed that we did not have a location that was suitable to show the full potential of my favorite lights for long range out of the mix; the long range extremes. There was a building and a wall in the way

. Those lights with their massive reflectors will throw light farther than any other comparable LED aux light (4-5 inch range) on the market. One lumen out to 1000 feet from a single light. There is a 6.7 inch version available as well that will put one lumen out to 2500 feet. There is a reason 99% of professional off-road race teams have moved to LED over HID.

Speaking of which, here's the latest version of my FJR setup. I think I've just about answered the "how much is too much?" question

. Have one headlight unplugged for now until I get our new 20 watt H4's in. That will free up 80 watts for the aux.

 

[08FJR4ME]

I am sure that will scare the sh_t out of anything standing on the road at night. my: Not sure what the drag coefficient might be though. I will leave that up to Fred to calculate. ^_^

Dave

 

[Chuck35]

First Impressions of the H4 LED's......

WOW!

As promised, tonight I aimed, rode and aimed some more. There is a well defined hot spot, and a lot of light gets out to it.

There is good lighting to the sides as well so one can see rover darting toward the road.

I rode in some dark well traveled areas and never got flashed by an oncoming cage.

One fellow forgot to dim his but quickly hit his switch after a polite reminder.

When I got out to less traveled areas I was able to play a bit. At 50 mph on low beam I was comfortable with the amount of light ahead and to the sides.

My discomfort above that was due to my reaction time vs the amount of deer in the area as well as the road conditions.

On High beam the well defined spots get much brighter and another beam casts ahead.

There was light out about as far as these old eyes could tune it in.

The LED mount is triangular with chips at the 10:00, 2:00, and 6:00 positions.

The 2 upper chips are on at reduced power for low beam, and all 3 come on at full power for high beam.

I think another 10% on low would be helpful and not blinding to oncoming traffic.

I'm quite impressed with these and highly recommend them. There is an awesome amount of light, It isn't wildly scattered like some HID conversions.

The reduced current draw alone is worth the price of admission.

 

[Fred W]

Some of the lights used are bright. Some are damned bright. With time, the prices should drop more as long-distance reach improves. We're on the cusp.

I was a bit disappointed that we did not have a location that was suitable to show the full potential of my favorite lights for long range out of the mix; the long range extremes. There was a building and a wall in the way

. Those lights with their massive reflectors will throw light farther than any other comparable LED aux light (4-5 inch range) on the market. One lumen out to 1000 feet from a single light. There is a 6.7 inch version available as well that will put one lumen out to 2500 feet. There is a reason 99% of professional off-road race teams have moved to LED over HID.

Speaking of which, here's the latest version of my FJR setup. I think I've just about answered the "how much is too much?" question

. Have one headlight unplugged for now until I get our new 20 watt H4's in. That will free up 80 watts for the aux.

Hey... Justin... One of your headlights? Seems to be out

 

[Chuck35]

A park light appears to be out also.

 

[Justin]

Thanks for the feedback Chuck. Any issues with getting flashed by oncoming cars on low beams etc? Dale seemed convinced there was a lot of scatter when we tested them out Saturday night. I thought it was just the result of being brighter and whiter.

I have another batch coming in, and will be doing a group special for the FJR forum. Available in 2 and 3 emitter styles.

 

[Chuck35]

The adjustment was way off (high) in Denver. There is a large amount of light off to the sides, perhaps that is why the low beam power level is a click lower than I'd have set it.

The light to the sides is a good thing, that's where Bambi hangs out when contemplating suicide

I never got flashed, even before I adjusted them.

After my first adjustment tonight I walked around in front of the bike, while bright as hell, they weren't any more blinding than the stock HID's many new cars are OEM supplied with.

I wonder how your 2 chip model beam will compare to the 3 chip. Are they the same generation chips?

 

[Justin]

I wonder how your 2 chip model beam will compare to the 3 chip. Are they the same generation chips?

Yup, same chip, 5th generation Cree CXA 1512's. The 2 chip version has less output than the 3 chip version of course, but still more than a standard H4. However, they pull 16 watts on lowbeam and 20 watts on highbeam. That frees up 80 watts for where it matters .

 

[Justin]

Just an FYI - our new redesigned mini's are now in stock. Available with Clear and Amber lenses (can also special order Red, Green and Blue lenses ). Lights include 1 meter leads and waterproof AMP connectors.

https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=LR10

 

[TomInPA]

On the LED H4 replacements, the flange that fits against the reflector housing seems relatively small and the body of the cooling fan is close. Is there a problem with closing the spring retainer clips? Does the fan prevent putting the dust boot back on?

 

[Chuck35]

On the LED H4 replacements, the flange that fits against the reflector housing seems relatively small and the body of the cooling fan is close. Is there a problem with closing the spring retainer clips? Does the fan prevent putting the dust boot back on?

Getting the clips in was a royal pita, especially on the right side. I cut the dust boots so they fit around the edge of the fans. If one were to remove the nose of the bike and put the flanges on first, both of these could be avoided.

 

[Justin]

On the LED H4 replacements, the flange that fits against the reflector housing seems relatively small and the body of the cooling fan is close. Is there a problem with closing the spring retainer clips? Does the fan prevent putting the dust boot back on?

I will be installing a set tomorrow or Tuesday on my Gen1. I'll post up lot's of pictures of the process. Since the bike currently looks like this, it should be easier than it was for Chuck .