lock set

[vaskeet]

I am looking for a lock set for 2010 fjr. I have to jiggle/shake my ignition lock to get the key to turn tried graphite with no help. I havent been able to find a online seller that lists them

 

[RossKean]

Part #33??

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2010/fjr1300a-fjr13azs/electrical-1


Edit: Might not hurt trying to flush out the lock cylinder with something like a silicone spray oil. Possibly a thorough clean (and a key in good condition) may be all you require.

 

[fastpappy]

Not sure about your year but there was an ignition switch recall on my 09. If yours required it do you know if it was done? Could be the problem.

 

[vaskeet]

Thanks

 

[vaskeet]

Not sure about your year but there was an ignition switch recall on my 09. If yours required it do you know if it was done? Could be the problem.

form what I could find 2009 was the last year affected by the recall Thanks

 

[RossKean]

Not sure about your year but there was an ignition switch recall on my 09. If yours required it do you know if it was done? Could be the problem.

I think his issue is with the lock cylinder. The ignition recall was more about the contacts in the switch part.
A clean/flush might help...

 

[vaskeet]

I think his issue is with the lock cylinder. The ignition recall was more about the contacts in the switch part.
A clean/flush might help...

you are correct i just got the bike it was only started once in a while for the last 3 years and now you have to fight to turn it. the tumblers/key appear to be worn

 

[fastpappy]

When the recall was done on my bike they replaced the whole shebang including the cylinder. Only down side is now an additional key for the ignition.

 

[RossKean]

When the recall was done on my bike they replaced the whole shebang including the cylinder. Only down side is now an additional key for the ignition.

The same didn't happen with everyone. I believe it is possible to keep the cylinder and just replace the switch part. The recall parts from Yamaha included the whole thing and I think many dealers replaced all of it.

 

[mcatrophy]

... i just got the bike it was only started once in a while for the last 3 years and now you have to fight to turn it. the tumblers/key appear to be worn

Most likely just congealed muck. If you think your only option is to replace it, you can lose nothing by agressively cleaning it.

Try squirting WD40 into the key entry hole, flood it, then insert the key in and out a few times (if muck stops it going in all the way, it won't turn), then wiggle the key - not too hard, you don't want to bend the key, and they are soft). Repeat a few times.

If that fails, try brake cleaner.

If it does free, squirt some dry lubricant in there, both to clean out any residue and (obviously) to lubricate it.

Edited to add I have done this successfully in the past.

 

[RossKean]

tumblers/key appear to be worn

Do you have a spare key and is it in better condition? If so, save it and get some more spares cut. I know the keys are soft but I ended out using just one of the original keys for the time I had my 2007 although it did get bent and straightened a few times (11 years and 185,000 miles). The spare was hardly used.

In addition to a clean/flush, make sure the key you are using is not bent or twisted. A gentle tap with a hammer on a flat surface or the non-serrated flats on a pair of needle-nose pliers may work for you.

If you look at the cylinder opening, you will see the slot and you SHOULD see a spring-loaded plastic (I think) "shutter" that is supposed to move to cover the slot (from the inside) when the key is removed. Keeps dirt and excess moisture out. The thin sheet metal that makes up the slot can get bent by the key being inserted carelessly. This prevents the shutter from closing which lets crap in the cylinder. Happened to me a couple of times and I was able to bend the metal back using a small flat-head screwdriver. Fixed the stuck shutter. Careful, there is an indent in one side (right?) that is supposed to be there to guide the key to push the shutter from right-to-left. Either side can get bent in...

With respect to cleaning/flushing, I used a silicone spray lube. mcatrophy suggests WD-40 which should be good as well. You mostly want the solvent part to flush debris out. The residual lube won't hurt but degrades over time. (Silicone doesn't get as sticky as WD-40.) I would avoid carb cleaner as it may be too aggressive toward anything plastic it encounters. Not to mention some paints...

Probably better to use something that doesn't leave a residue that can turn gummy or attract dirt. Silicone is better than a hydrocarbon oil because it doesn't degrade as quickly and remains more fluid in cold temperatures. PTFE (Teflon) is better still. Traditional graphite is messy and still needs a solvent flush to get the existing crap out.

This guy does a bunch of FJR "How-To's" on Youtube. I don't always agree (and he gets a bit long-winded) but I think this is reasonable - a dry-lube containing PTFE. The solvent carrier helps clean/flush.



Another Youtube, if you have the patience...



I think there is a pretty good chance you can restore your ignition lock.

 

[Nikk]

I experienced the same issue with my 2006 100k+ miles of turning the key on/off. I tried cleaning the cylinder but it eventually got bad enough I was starting to not trust it for long trips. I found someone parting out their bike and grabbed their key set.

Good luck!