Problem Setting Rebound Damping on 06 FJR

[kmkirlin]

I decided to adjust my rebound damping on the front forks tonight for the first time. Procedure is described in both owners manual and service manual, which I have. I "zeroed" out both sides by turning the adjusting knob on top of each fork counterclockwise, then turned clockwise to learn how many clicks to maximum. I have 24 clicks on the Left side fork and 34 clicks on the Right side fork. That is NOT a typo: 34 clicks. That's a hell of a difference. And even 24 clicks is way over the 17 clicks listed in the service manual. Of course, there are warnings to adjust rebound damping evenly on both forks. So what is even: same no. of clicks on each side, or proportional no. of clicks on each side. I went for proportional. I set rebound damping at 15 clicks clockwise from "zero" on the Left fork and 21 clicks on the Right fork.

HAS ANYONE ELSE RUN INTO THIS? DOES THE DIFFERENCE IN CLICKS BETWEEN LEFT AND RIGHT FORKS MEAN THERE IS SOMETHING ELSE WRONG? IF SO, WHAT IS IT? DO I ACHIEVE EVEN ADJUSTMENT BY SETTING BOTH SIDES THE SAME NO. OF CLICKS, OR BY SETTING BOTH SIDES THE SAME PERCENTAGE OF MAXIMUM (OR MINIMUM)? I've been feeling pretty competent about working on this bike, but this difference has me scratching my head!

 

[kaitsdad]

I decided to adjust my rebound damping on the front forks tonight for the first time. Procedure is described in both owners manual and service manual, which I have. I "zeroed" out both sides by turning the adjusting knob on top of each fork counterclockwise, then turned clockwise to learn how many clicks to maximum. I have 24 clicks on the Left side fork and 34 clicks on the Right side fork. That is NOT a typo: 34 clicks. That's a hell of a difference. And even 24 clicks is way over the 17 clicks listed in the service manual. Of course, there are warnings to adjust rebound damping evenly on both forks. So what is even: same no. of clicks on each side, or proportional no. of clicks on each side. I went for proportional. I set rebound damping at 15 clicks clockwise from "zero" on the Left fork and 21 clicks on the Right fork.
HAS ANYONE ELSE RUN INTO THIS? DOES THE DIFFERENCE IN CLICKS BETWEEN LEFT AND RIGHT FORKS MEAN THERE IS SOMETHING ELSE WRONG? IF SO, WHAT IS IT? DO I ACHIEVE EVEN ADJUSTMENT BY SETTING BOTH SIDES THE SAME NO. OF CLICKS, OR BY SETTING BOTH SIDES THE SAME PERCENTAGE OF MAXIMUM (OR MINIMUM)? I've been feeling pretty competent about working on this bike, but this difference has me scratching my head!

Interesting - I did not notice that when adjusting mine - but I'll check to see if they're different. I dialed them all the way in, then counted the same number of clicks out.

Hmmmmm....... any ideas out there forum members?

 

[fjrinbc]

I have a 2005 and this is how I do mine:

The proper way to set both compression and rebound is to grab your knob and turn it all the way CLOCKWISE until it stops - don't force it. Compression setting is a flat blade screw adjust. Then turn the adjuster COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to your desired setting.

The rear damper is the same for rebound except you'll be on all fours and looking up from the bottom. All the way CLOCKWISE and then back off till you get the required number of clicks.

I can't explain the difference you have in turing the adjusters all the way 'out', but it doesn't matter anyway because that's not the way to do it. The adjusters have little effect when turned all the way 'out'.

Both compression and rebound are stiffest when all the way 'in'. Maybe you should re-read the owner's manual. It seems to explain this pretty well.

 

[wallypiper]

From the owner's manual:

"NOTE:

Although the total number of clicks . . . may not match the above specification . . . the actual number of clicks represents the entire adjusting rage. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary."

I have always heard to adjust damping staring at full closed (max damping) and adjust out.

Also, in spite of the warning, there are now and have been in the past bikes which put compression damping in one leg and rebound damping in the other so I don't think its critical to get them both exactly the same. However, the huge difference described above is pretty strange. I'm afraid it would lead me to disassemble the damn thing and try to get to the bottom of it. Of course, that would probably end badly, but I don't think I could stop myself.

 

[kaitsdad]

I just returned from my garage -

I have 30 clicks out on the left fork -

and 24 clicks out on the right -

however to adjust, I turn them all the way in, and back out the same number on each side - so I doubt that the number of clicks out to maximum matters.

It would seem that you've uncovered something that no one else had noticed !!

 

[3dogs]

The rebound damping on the FJR uses a needle valve located at the bottom of the fork. There is a long rod about 14" that connectes it to the knob on top of the fork where the adjuster is located.

To adjust, turn the knob in (clockwise) until it's lightly seated--then back out the number of desired clicks. Becasue a tappered needle valve is being lifted out of a hole (as you turn the adjuster counter-clockwise) the "clicks" at the beginning (1 through 8) of the adjustment have more effect than the ones at the end (twenty-something). Once the needle valve is out of the oil control hole a certain amount, lifting it out further does not increase oil flow.

In fact on the FJR's that I have adjusted in the Total Control class (There is a module on suspension with a demonistration), after about 10 clicks out on rebound no difference could be felt if the adjuster was turned out more.

The 2006 FJR (I did about 6 so far) seemed to be good at about 5 or 6 clicks out. This is when the forks rebound the fastests without taking an additional bounce at the top of the suspension stroke.

 

[kmkirlin]

That makes sense to me. Thanks for helping me understand how it works.

The rebound damping on the FJR uses a needle valve located at the bottom of the fork. There is a long rod about 14" that connectes it to the knob on top of the fork where the adjuster is located.
To adjust, turn the knob in (clockwise) until it's lightly seated--then back out the number of desired clicks. Becasue a tappered needle valve is being lifted out of a hole (as you turn the adjuster counter-clockwise) the "clicks" at the beginning (1 through 8) of the adjustment have more effect than the ones at the end (twenty-something). Once the needle valve is out of the oil control hole a certain amount, lifting it out further does not increase oil flow.

In fact on the FJR's that I have adjusted in the Total Control class (There is a module on suspension with a demonistration), after about 10 clicks out on rebound no difference could be felt if the adjuster was turned out more.

The 2006 FJR (I did about 6 so far) seemed to be good at about 5 or 6 clicks out. This is when the forks rebound the fastests without taking an additional bounce at the top of the suspension stroke.