Pulling rear shock

[dcarver]

Does any of the rear suspension linkage have to be removed to pull the shock? Gen 2

 

[FJRay]

I think a little bit needs to come out but as I recall it's easy all the way. What did you break this time???

I have a spare if you need a loaner while you get yours fixed.

 

[escapefjrtist]

DC - Nothing removed, but it's easier if you loosen the dog bone bolts to make room for the spring.

--G

 

[bluesdog]

No. I've done this a couple of times: once to fit a Penske, and more recently in order to remove the relay arm for a bearing check/lube.

Remember to support the swing arm. I used a stout length of cord attached to the axle hole on the swing arm, and the other end on the right muffler support bracket. On my bike, access to the upper shock bolt on the right side required unbolting and moving aside a small brake hose guide.

You may need a breaker bar to loosen the shock bolts if they've not been removed. The first time I removed 'em, I thought I'd have to use explosives. This last time they came off relatively easily, although I still used a breaker bar.

hth

 

[dcarver]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I did not have to remove any of the linkage. However, I should really shoot the tech that ran the new regulator rectifier Cable right where the shock needs to come out of the hole.

Ray, nothing broken that I know of. However, for the last week or so A very loud cracking sound, a popping sound, was coming from the front end when putting the motorcycle up onto the center stand.

Looking at the rear shock it's obviously the blown a seal.

Posted from my iPhone please excuse typos

 

[FJRay]

Is the noise coming from the front of the bike or the rear shock.

You don't suppose your road might be a contributing factor do you..

 

[Fred W]

Considering that the shock is attached to the relay arm, I don't see how you removed it without touching it.

So you at least have to remove that bolt through the relay arm.

I find the shock removal and replacement goes a lot easier if you also unbolt the dog bones from the relay arm and let the arm swing down and forward to hang from the front bolt. It is only one more bolt to remove and is not very hard to get at.

 

[NBB]

I did this yesterday, I loosened the rear dog bones bolt, and supported the rear wheel. The small amount of flex in the allowed the dog bones was all that was needed to got everything through from the bottom side. Getting the top bolt pushed back through was the only fun item without a second set of hands.

 

[dcarver]

Is the noise coming from the front of the bike or the rear shock. You don't suppose your road might be a contributing factor do you..

It seems to be from the front, but hard to say. It's a sound of bound energy being released. C-R-A-C-K when the front forks are being fully extended. Forks seem to stroke normally when off bike, and no obvious binding while in the triple clamps. It's been 2 years since last service, so I'm sure all the bushings are shot. Of note is last time KFG stated my cartridges were at end of service life due to wear the in normal stroke zone.

 

[FJRay]

Not quite sure how to respond to the "normal stroke zone"

but your road does exercise the suspension more than most so I wouldn't be surprised if there is excess wear. Maybe get the set of forks that Marcus has for sale and switch every year or two. They have already been to GP.