Spongy Rear Brakes

[Jpridesdfw]

As a relatively new FJR, I'm still learning my new to me bike and finding this forum very helpful. Looking for some insight in solving what I'd call soft rear brakes. I bought a low mile '13 this past summer and noticed on the first ride home that the rear brakes felt softer than any bike I've owned. Currently own two other non-ABS bikes. It seems to be most notable when using rear brakes only. I recently flushed/changed the front/rear brake fluid and noticed an improvement but on my last ride, it seems to be back to where it was. I can still engage ABS (recently checked to make sure) but it takes considerable more pedal travel than I believe should be required. Soliticing to see if anyone else has experienced (and preferably solved) this issue?

 

[RossKean]

When bleeding/flushing the rear brakes, did you also flush the front right lower piston? This is actuated with the rear brake pedal (not to the front brake lever). Try re-bleeding the system starting with the lower bleeder nipple on the right front caliper (using the rear brake pedal). Do the rear brake next. I expect that this will fix things for you.

 

[Jpridesdfw]

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, when flushing the front, I started with the lower right nipple, then upper right then left. Finally, flushed the rear and then street tested with a couple of 15-20mph rear ABS engagements. All was good for a couple of weeks.

 

[RossKean]

The lower right nipple was flushed with the rear pedal? I'm assuming that this was the case since fluid won't flow through this bleeder using the lever on the handlebar. (It wasn't absolutely clear from your reply.)

Soft brake pedal (or lever) is almost always the result of a fugitive air bubble.

Good luck with it!

 

[Jpridesdfw]

Looks like I'll be making another run at bleeding the brakes. I have a firm rule about doing maintenance in the garage when it's below 40 degrees! . It's actually in the mid-20s now, so it looks like that will have to wait until next weekend. Thanks for the recommendations/feedback, much appreciated. Oh yeah, Happy 2018!!

 

[Nanahanman]

Brake bleeding can be a bit of a bit#$ sometimes.

You might have to go back a few times to get all the bubbles.

 

[Heen]

JPRIDESDFW,

Did you activate the ABS during flushing of the system? If you did not I can send you the procedure for installing a jumper and activating the ABS on a gen III while sitting on the center stand in the garage. PM me your email address and I will send it.

 

[Kaelaria]

AFTER you flush and activate ABS to flush the old fluid out of the module, you need to flush AGAIN because you just contaminated the new stuff. Not so critical if it's done on a regular schedule, but if the fluid was particularly old or bad, absolutely necessary.

 

[Heen]

Good Point Kaelaria.

 

[roadscum]

I'm a bit confused, Should the system 1st be bleed w/o activating ABS then with the ABS activated. Or is it OK to activate t he ABS and bleed it once??

Paul

 

[Heen]

I bleed my system twice. Once before activating the ABS and one after. It may be over kill.

 

[900gc]

I reverted to speed bleeders and had bled the rear 4 times in 4 years. The pedal would always get soft again over a few weeks. What finally resolved it for me was to KEEP the pedal AND front brake lever depressed firmly for several days (wedged the rear with a pole and velcro strapped the front in my case) which must have driven some trapped air to the reservoir. My rear brake has remained firm for over a whole year. I also use this 'trick' on my DR650 dual sport and it firms up the brakes a bit more on it as well.

 

[Kaelaria]

Some of you need to get your terms right. Bleed means to get all the air out. Flush means to swap fresh for old fluid.