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CopB8

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Was about to leave our hotel when i discovered we had a flat rear tire. Strike one. Decided to get out my brand new Slime compressor and pump it up to go find service. 2 cycles and it plows the 12v lighter fuse. Strike 2. The lighter plug is what runs my Garmin which has the directions home. Strike 3.

Here's where I need the help. Where is the fuse block on my 13 Gen3? And if I have to pull panels off can you give me any guidance?

 
Ok. Posted this first so that i'd get the experts working on it sooner than later. I've now found sBanbit's excellent (albeit infuriating) write-up.

Time to get started pulling tho ENTIRE dash from this thing to change one fuse.

Ridiculous.

 
Was just about to send that. By the way - do not make the mistake of just sticking a larger fuse to replace the small whimpy one that blew. The wiring to that cig outlet in the glove box can support a phone charger but not a compressor.

 
Ok. Posted this first so that i'd get the experts working on it sooner than later. I've now found sBanbit's excellent (albeit infuriating) write-up. Time to get started pulling tho ENTIRE dash from this thing to change one fuse. Ridiculous.
C'mon, stop whining and get it done, won't take you that long!
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Is your inflator the "Tire Top Off" model?

From the manual:

For use with 12-volt DC power outlets rated 15 amps or higher. Do not use with older 8 amp cigarette lighter receptacles.

Compressor does not start or blows fuses:

1. Push the power plug firmly into the receptacle and twist it back and forth.

2. Check receptacle and plug terminals for dirt, particularly tobacco (use a non-conductive probe,

not fingers or metal).

3. Check vehicle power outlet fuse, should be 15 amps minimum.

 
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I didn't think is was much different than the gen2 panel. If so it shouldn't take much to pull the one panel.

 
I didn't think is was much different than the gen2 panel. If so it shouldn't take much to pull the one panel.
It is different, by removing all the dash screws and replacing them with interlocking tabs and some fasteners. After reading how it works it has given me pause about getting a Gen III.

 
I had to pull my front cowl and throttle side panel off in the parking lot at work on Friday (accidentally turned on the parking lights... for 8 hours!) to boost my bike.

2 hex head screws on the horns of the front cowl flanking either side of the instruments. 2 hex head screws on either end of the panel.

Grasp the front cowl by the horns (no joke) and twist while pulling down. They take quite a bit of force to unsnap the snaps. It's seems to be easier to do one side at a time. Remove front cowl.

Remove 1 hex head screw on battery cover and 2 push-pin connectors. My dealer removed the front retaining nut because its a bit of a bitch. Lift off battery panel cover. Their is a snap connector on the 'leg' of the panel. Remove panel.

It's harder to explain than to do. Total time about 5 minutes.

Ion, it is not easier or harder, just different.

 
It's not going to help you right now, but it'd be a great idea to go out and get a Battery Tender Jr. (not expensive) and then use the included pigtail to provide a "permanent" tap direct to the battery...which can then support a compressor and/or various other add-ons.

 
It's not going to help you right now, but it'd be a great idea to go out and get a Battery Tender Jr. (not expensive) and then use the included pigtail to provide a "permanent" tap direct to the battery...which can then support a compressor and/or various other add-ons.
This.

Both my previous, and now my new FJR, were equipped like this. Hell, the dealer installed a really nice one before I took delivery. Added bonus, if it's long enough (mine is), you can use it to power up your tank bag. I've got the Powerlet kit installed with both the BMW style socket and a plain jane Cigarette outlet inside the bag. Came in handy at EOM when Dana popped the fuse on the outlet in the glovebox trying to inflate a tire.

I've even got one installed my little 2-fitty trail bike. It's cheap and extremely handy.

 
The fuse that came with the cigarette outlet only is only 3A so not sufficient for any portable air compressor. 15A is minimum as the other post said.

 
Thanks for all the help guys. I know I definitely have some upgrades to do before heading off on my next big trip. The battery pig tail thing is a no-brainer. Would be great to hook a battery tender to, pump, and jumper start if necessary. Takes all the stress and risk out of having to pull the panels is some remote location.

In the end I just used my phone and my paper map to navigate home. I'll change the fuse in the comfort of my garage at the same time I do the other work. It was our simplest and easiest leg of the ride anyway. I was probably more frustrated than anything else.

Eureka Springs and Northern Arkansas were fantastic. I don't know why I haven't made this ride a priority in the past. It will be in the future. Even with 2 speeding tickets, a demolished Sena headset, a flat, blown fuse and some of the ride home in the rain, it was a GREAT trip.

Thanks again!

 
...The battery pig tail thing is a no-brainer. Would be great to hook a battery tender to, pump, and jumper start if necessary. Takes all the stress and risk out of having to pull the panels is some remote location...
That wasn't just a trip, it was a bona fide adventure!

Depending on how low your battery gets, you may not be able to use the pig-tail for jump starting, in fact you may burn up the pig-tail. There is a reason jumper cables are made from such big wires ;)

 
Good point. Just for a trickle charger then.

I'll be searching here for the best way to route the wires from the battery to the under-seat compartment. It was a pit of pain on my '04 when I did it. I ran them inside fuel line hose to insulate them against the motor heat.

 
...The battery pig tail thing is a no-brainer. Would be great to hook a battery tender to, pump, and jumper start if necessary. Takes all the stress and risk out of having to pull the panels is some remote location...
Depending on how low your battery gets, you may not be able to use the pig-tail for jump starting, in fact you may burn up the pig-tail. There is a reason jumper cables are made from such big wires
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This.

I just went through this last Friday. I accidentally switched on the parking lights when I locked the forks. Came out from work to find a totally dead battery. I knew I couldn't boost the bike through the pig tail so I thought just leaving it hooked up to my car would charge the battery in the bike. Nope, even with a 15amp fuse and the bike off, as soon as I plugged it in, the pigtail fuse would blow it's brains out. I ended up boosting the bike (after removing all the shit) the old fashioned way.

The bike fired right up, but after about 25 seconds attempting to remove the jumper cables would find the bike stumbling badly. Letting it run with the jumper cables connected for a couple of minutes found the battery charged enough to run normally. A night on the Battery Tender has the bike happy once again.

 
I just went through this last Friday. I accidentally switched on the parking lights when I locked the forks.
How is it even possible to lock the forks (and I assume remove the key) with the parking lights still on? Something different with the '13?

 
I just went through this last Friday. I accidentally switched on the parking lights when I locked the forks.
How is it even possible to lock the forks (and I assume remove the key) with the parking lights still on? Something different with the '13?
Yup. It's VERY easy to do. Turn the key to lock the forks, then turn it about another 1/8" and click, parking lots come on. Then they let you walk away with the key.

I think Yammie should fire the Human Factors engineer. They fuxed up!

 
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