Turn signal lights.

[Klikoo]

The front turn signals on the US version remain on together with the lights when they are not operated. This is not the case with the European version. I've looked in the schematic, but can't find where this difference is in the circuit and wiring. Operation is via the ECU. Is this difference in the software or another type of ECU?

 

[user 213]

What model year do you have? Yamaha likes to switch things by interrupting the ground leg. I'm not sure if they are doing this with the turn signals, but it is most likely a wiring difference, rather than an ECU controlled feature, though anything is possible with the idiot coders out there.

US turn signals will have two circuits, one for running light and one for turn signal. On older filament bulb bikes, that meant a bulb with dual filaments. With LED bikes it should still mean two circuits in the light, or three wires to it, ground, turn signal and running light. You won't easily be able to turn a single circuit light into a functional running light/turn signal. You'd need to change the light to a two circuit one.

 

[Klikoo]

Sorry, forgot to mention. I have the model RP23 from 2015, so with only LED indicators at the front. If I look at the diagram, the + is switched and it goes to the counter unit (73 in the diagram). From the counter unit it goes to the indicators. So I don't know if this in turn comes from the ECU, I don't think so. In the US version, the front turn signals remain on when not in use. I wonder how this is switched, via software or jumper? Can't see this in the schematic.

 

[wfooshee]

The turn signals do not remain on, that's running lights, which are required in the US. The turn signals are a separate light source in the same housing, flashing brighter with turn signals or hazard lights activated.

The running lights are on the same circuit with the tail lights, and switched on with the ignition key. The turn signals re completely separate electrically. There's no magic switching or current feed to keep the turn signal on; that's a completely separate set of lights.

If you're asking how to convert the European turn signal to a US-style running light, you can't. You'd have to add a separate light for the running light, with its own power source, tapped into the tail light circuit. Doing so may run you afoul of European regulations regarding the lighting systems, though.

 

[Klikoo]

I did indeed want to see if it was possible to carry those running lights. It is not forbidden here, only allowed to give orange light. On one of my previous motorcycles, a CX500, this worked. Here I had to switch on a plug that was factory-installed in the wiring harness. The flashing light was also a single filament, so this apparently worked with some sort of toggle switch. So I wondered if it could also be done with a European FJR.

 

[user 213]

12V is fun. Depending on how much fun you want to have, if you send 12v to the turn signals from a switched source like the tail light, or anything always on when the key is on, the turn signals will stay on. BUT, in order for them to flash when you use the turn signals, you would need to apply 12V to the ground side of the turn signals.

I.E. New 12V source in place of the source from the flasher unit, so they stay on all the time. Then when you apply 12V to the ground side, the light goes off, because two 12V sources and no ground won't light things up.

Extra special fun, LEDs are electrically polarised and will only operate correctly when their positive terminal (also known as the anode) is connected to the supply positive and their negative terminal (also known as the cathode) is connected to the supply negative. So if you don't observe the correct polarity, the LEDs won't light up at all.

It would be a lot easier to install small Aux LED lights for front running lights. They make some uni-directional ones that are quite bright and small.

 

[torch]

Yes, you can have a constand dim setting with LED turn signals to have a "marker" mode. Use PWM control. I did just that in my Givi brake light mod.

Pulse Width Modulation means applying full voltage for brief pulses. In my case, I found about a 20% duty cycle was ideal. The lights are switched on for 50mS, then off for 200mS in the dim mode and on for the full 250mS in bright mode.

In your application, you don't need to go to the extent I did. You just need to provide a constant PWM signal when the bike is on and bypass that when the turn signal is flashing. I would need to see a wiring diagram to certain, and even then it might require metering the leads to verify if Yamaha chose to supply constant +12v and switch the ground or if they pulse the +12 and use a common ground to flash the LEDs.

Small motor PWM modules are a dime a dozen on eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. etc. etc. Most of those switch the ground. If Yamaha chose to switch the ground then you could use one of those plus 4 diodes quite easily.

However, assuming Yamaha went the more common route of the automotive world, then the lights use a common ground and those cheap modules won't work*. Here is one that will (there may be others):

https://www.diodedynamics.com/2a-led-pwm-dimmer-with-bypass.html

At US$22 a pair, they are a bit pricier. But they are a complete solution. Install one on the left front and one in the right front, supply with switched 12v power (eg from tail light circuit), a ground wire, and you are done.

That website also has a good video explaining PWM light control; worth checking it out.


* Well, not directly. One could use such a module to control the duty cycle and then invert the output with a Mosfet circuit to switch the positive, but if you have the skills to do that you don't need the module, just a 555 timer or similar.